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Kyosho ST-RR

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Old 10-19-2017, 10:14 AM   -   Wikipost
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Current running upgrades/Mods people are doing to this truck late 2016/early 2017.

-Chassis Options
m2c2850 KYOSHO STRR EVO WEIGHT FOWARD TRUGGY

-Engine Mount Option
IFW102 - Blue narrower Mount. Allows you to put Lock Nuts on top of screws that hold the Mount plates in.
Agama motor mount AGM6206

-For MP9 Knuckle conversion
Kyosho IF419 MP9 Knuckles
Kyosho IFW436 16degree Hub Carrier
Kyosho IF420 Knuckle Arm Collar (slightly thinner than STRR one)
Kyosho IF467 Long King Pin

-Strengthening upgrades
King Headz KP-360-BLK Front Torque Arm
King Headz KP-372RR-BLK Rear Torque Arm (extended chassis)
King Headz KP-300LB-BLK Lower Front Holder B
King Headz KP-300UL-BLK Front Upper Holder L
King Headz KP-329 Rear Brace Mount
IS157 Hardened Diff Case from Psycho Kruiser
IGW002GM Alum Rear Hubs
HB Outdrives #67197

-Replacing C-Clip Hinge Pins on Inner Susp Holder
HPI 109848 Hing Pins
Racers Edge/KFactory RCEK8034 Pins (Very hard to find)
or
Replace complete A/B/C/D Blocks with:
*M2C m2c2510 KYOSHO ST-RR/ EVO REAR TOE BLOCK
*M2C m2c2520 KYOSHO STRR EVO TRUGGY FRONT LOWER ANTIDIVER KIT


-Servo Saver Mod
IFW450 MP9 SS Alum Upper Arm
IF417 MP9 SS Lower Assembly

(See http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...postcount=4112 for full pics and description).


-Performance Updates
IFW327BL Blue Narrow Hexes (typically run on front).

-Bodies Options
RC8T Bulldog Body (discontinued late 2016).

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Old 10-18-2011, 04:10 PM
  #1531  
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I never lost a ring and pinion gear when running the original STRR but I did lose a few tanks at Nitro Challenge one year, which caused me to blow up a brand new Sirio Kani 3 engine.
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Old 10-18-2011, 05:25 PM
  #1532  
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Well I ran my st-r and rr for years and most of the guys at my track did also but everybody got tired of clicking Diffs the gears weren't really the problem it was the soft bulkheads that's why im wondering how good the new gears and bulkheads are gonna hold up because im thinking about buying a new evo I still got my old rr but I haven't ran it in a long time
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:52 PM
  #1533  
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Originally Posted by BIGTIME
I never lost a ring and pinion gear when running the original STRR but I did lose a few tanks at Nitro Challenge one year, which caused me to blow up a brand new Sirio Kani 3 engine.
sorry to hear that. but its normal if you dont do the fuel tank mod, the chassis flex causes the tank to break!! i broke one the first time on the track, did the mod and no issues since.

cheers

Ali
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:06 PM
  #1534  
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fuel tank mod..tell me more
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:39 PM
  #1535  
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Originally Posted by malcnz
fuel tank mod..tell me more
ok, you will need some fat o-rings and a closed cell foam.

cut the foam the length of the tank, install orings between the chassis and the plastic mounts, dont overtighten, install the tank with the foam underneath it and also use orings between the mounting screws and the tank.
use a longer screw on top. now what you want is the tank to be seated in its place but not fully tightened, and when you press it from the the top, it will move down and presses against the foam and then bounces back up.

hope this helps

cheers

Ali
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:53 AM
  #1536  
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o.k..think i have that..cheers
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:11 PM
  #1537  
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FYI tapered pistons are supplied with the EVO
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:27 PM
  #1538  
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It does indeed...is this the pistons to use? and what weight of oil..have Losi...
Thanks.
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:38 PM
  #1539  
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Originally Posted by KWT-NITRO
sorry to hear that. but its normal if you dont do the fuel tank mod, the chassis flex causes the tank to break!! i broke one the first time on the track, did the mod and no issues since.

cheers

Ali
I have never broke a tank Period, with stock chassis brace and no tank mod. I have seen people break tanks but they are jumping off the track chassis slapping jumps, ect. But they will tell you just the normal driving.. "C" Bulkhead no problems with old gears you just have to shim them correctly.
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:22 PM
  #1540  
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am just trying to share my experience
if you go few pages back, you will see that it was an issue in here, breaking tanks. maybe we dont drive as good as you are though!!
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Old 10-20-2011, 10:18 AM
  #1541  
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Originally Posted by malcnz
It does indeed...is this the pistons to use? and what weight of oil..have Losi...
Thanks.
I've been using the 8 x 1.3mm tapered pistons for a while now. They seem to give just as much pack as the 6 x 1.3mm ones for big jumps (high impact/speed damping) but are softer for rough and smaller stuff.

The tapered pistons in general give more pack compared to their normal counterpart as they generate more flow resistance because the oil has a longer way to travel to get through the piston. This will especially be noticable with high speed damping: the pressured oil is forced to travel through a longer "tunnel" = more resitance = more pack.
The angle of the holes might help with this effect aswell (more turbulence).
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:06 PM
  #1542  
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I thought I knew everything. But can someone tell me why when i turn the servo saver its not as smooth when i get centered. But going from right to left and vice versa is good. And the servo saver scrubs the top plate
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Old 10-20-2011, 01:21 PM
  #1543  
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Originally Posted by Coach Townsend
I thought I knew everything. But can someone tell me why when i turn the servo saver its not as smooth when i get centered. But going from right to left and vice versa is good. And the servo saver scrubs the top plate
The ackerman plate might rub the front bulkhead just above the bearing slightly, specially near center position. If so: nothing to worry about. Mine has been doing this for a long time without problems.
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Old 10-20-2011, 01:51 PM
  #1544  
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I have ordered all the evo parts to convert my St-rr over I cant wait to run nitro truggy again its been like 6 years
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:52 PM
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Hay all I am back after a 3 year break & loving the St-RR, I am having one issue with light on power steering, The truck spins out on me with light throttle.

The track surface is hard & rutted
Tires soft sweep exagone
Diffs 7k-10k-3k
Shocks 35 losi oil
-2 camber all around
1 toe out on front
2.75 rear plate( forget what its called last plate on rear diff)
bronze rear toe plate

I think part of my issue is I cannot tell if its too much rear traction or too little?
Is it spinning cause the rear is hooking & the front isnt?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
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