2LikesOdonnell Buggy!!!
06-12-2009, 03:19 PM
#1877
06-12-2009, 08:37 PM
#1880
The OD engine gets between 8 and 11 minutes depending on driving style and will be at tower hobbies next week. 
TP
TP
06-13-2009, 01:39 AM
#1881
06-13-2009, 07:04 AM
#1883
Tech Initiate
06-13-2009, 01:04 PM
#1885
06-13-2009, 05:05 PM
#1886
Titanium weight savings
The topic of Titanium screws has come up a few times and I've had PM's about it as well...
There are a few different companies that carry titanium screws. Team VTX, Mugen, Lunsford Racing and so on.... but there ARE differences!
When I first purchased the Z01B back in Sept/Oct of 2008, I decided I'd go ahead and grab some titanium screws to save a little weight. I chose the 'upper' and 'lower' Mugen kits for their 5 series buggy. Cost was just over $80.
This gave me enough screws to do about 75% of the entire car. That said, it also left me quite a few extra screws. Mostly small screws, many of which I gave away to friends at the track to hold transponders and such.
To round out the rest of the screws, I had to order smaller packs of screws (still Mugen) from Amain to get the rest. This is where it gets more spendy. Prices vary, but you'll end up spending another $50 just buying pairs of screws.
No one, that I've found carry ALL of the screws that the Z needs. The long gearbox screws that run thru the pivot blocks are just not found. At least not by me.
What I learned... The Mugen screws are soft. Which is not a problem if you're not wrenching them all the time. but.. for example, the radio tray posts are loc-tited on the chassis side on my car. I did this obviously to keep them from backing out. I used the 'medium' stuff. It's not coming out easy. In fact, I believe I'll need to drill them out and replace the posts. The screws are just too soft to be loosened. No bother really, as I never take these out (I use RTV on the top screws), but it's something to consider.
For full on weight savings, I went titanium screws, turnbuckles, and aluminum nyloc nuts.... and saved a little more than a NiMH receiver battery pack. That's not bad at all!
Both upper and lower Mugen kit packs - $80. Another $50 at least in other screws. Another $30 in Lunsford screws, another $70 for turnbuckles, and finally another $30 or so for a bunch of aluminum nuts. Then you have to totally rebuild your kit and replace each screw. ALSO, some screws will need to be ordered longer, so you can cut them down, and file them smooth.
So, if you've got spare cash in hand and want to add something trick AND lose a little weight in the process, it may be worth it. Add to that, 98% of your screws will be resistant to rust.
Finally, looking back to when I first purchased the car. I went thru the manual and wrote down all the screws I needed to replace. Then went onto Lunsfords website and began to fill in a fake order. When all was done and said, I was right at $230 for again - 98% of the screws I needed to do the whole car. If I were to do it all over again, I probably would get the Lunsford screws. They are a little heavier than the Mugen screws, but MUCH stronger.
Cost vs weight... hmmm, that's a tough one. I think one also has to consider the rust issue, and finally the 'cool factor'. Titanium screws ARE cool. Titanium screws also allow you to save a chunk of weight thru-out the entire car, not just in one area.
In the end..... It's a titanium toss up!
There are a few different companies that carry titanium screws. Team VTX, Mugen, Lunsford Racing and so on.... but there ARE differences!
When I first purchased the Z01B back in Sept/Oct of 2008, I decided I'd go ahead and grab some titanium screws to save a little weight. I chose the 'upper' and 'lower' Mugen kits for their 5 series buggy. Cost was just over $80.
This gave me enough screws to do about 75% of the entire car. That said, it also left me quite a few extra screws. Mostly small screws, many of which I gave away to friends at the track to hold transponders and such.
To round out the rest of the screws, I had to order smaller packs of screws (still Mugen) from Amain to get the rest. This is where it gets more spendy. Prices vary, but you'll end up spending another $50 just buying pairs of screws.
No one, that I've found carry ALL of the screws that the Z needs. The long gearbox screws that run thru the pivot blocks are just not found. At least not by me.
What I learned... The Mugen screws are soft. Which is not a problem if you're not wrenching them all the time. but.. for example, the radio tray posts are loc-tited on the chassis side on my car. I did this obviously to keep them from backing out. I used the 'medium' stuff. It's not coming out easy. In fact, I believe I'll need to drill them out and replace the posts. The screws are just too soft to be loosened. No bother really, as I never take these out (I use RTV on the top screws), but it's something to consider.
For full on weight savings, I went titanium screws, turnbuckles, and aluminum nyloc nuts.... and saved a little more than a NiMH receiver battery pack. That's not bad at all!
Both upper and lower Mugen kit packs - $80. Another $50 at least in other screws. Another $30 in Lunsford screws, another $70 for turnbuckles, and finally another $30 or so for a bunch of aluminum nuts. Then you have to totally rebuild your kit and replace each screw. ALSO, some screws will need to be ordered longer, so you can cut them down, and file them smooth.
So, if you've got spare cash in hand and want to add something trick AND lose a little weight in the process, it may be worth it. Add to that, 98% of your screws will be resistant to rust.
Finally, looking back to when I first purchased the car. I went thru the manual and wrote down all the screws I needed to replace. Then went onto Lunsfords website and began to fill in a fake order. When all was done and said, I was right at $230 for again - 98% of the screws I needed to do the whole car. If I were to do it all over again, I probably would get the Lunsford screws. They are a little heavier than the Mugen screws, but MUCH stronger.
Cost vs weight... hmmm, that's a tough one. I think one also has to consider the rust issue, and finally the 'cool factor'. Titanium screws ARE cool. Titanium screws also allow you to save a chunk of weight thru-out the entire car, not just in one area.
In the end..... It's a titanium toss up!
06-13-2009, 06:33 PM
#1887
06-13-2009, 11:11 PM
#1888
Tech Addict
iTrader: (32)
they also don't rust. highly resistant to nature.
like boost said don't get cheap TI, if it doesn't specify grade, then don't bother with it.
Ti grade you're looking for is Titanium Grade5 or Ti 6-4, or Ti-6Al-4V
As a side note, I just put in a order for large quantities of commonly used titanium screws directly from the manufacturer, I'll be getting rid of extras after keeping a few spares.
I had to order 100pc per size.. ya.. so if anyone is interested, I would not mind recovering some of the costs.. hehe
like boost said don't get cheap TI, if it doesn't specify grade, then don't bother with it.
Ti grade you're looking for is Titanium Grade5 or Ti 6-4, or Ti-6Al-4V
As a side note, I just put in a order for large quantities of commonly used titanium screws directly from the manufacturer, I'll be getting rid of extras after keeping a few spares.
I had to order 100pc per size.. ya.. so if anyone is interested, I would not mind recovering some of the costs.. hehe
06-14-2009, 01:44 AM
#1889
I will use these 3x12 mm Yeah screws to close the diffs
saves weight on the rotating mass
+ uses a philipshead screwdriver
wonder if one can use VTX 4mm titanium screws
on the tower/bulkhead connection, that would save a lot too
saves weight on the rotating mass
+ uses a philipshead screwdriver
wonder if one can use VTX 4mm titanium screws
on the tower/bulkhead connection, that would save a lot too
Last edited by speedy2; 06-18-2009 at 03:38 AM.
06-14-2009, 09:11 AM
#1890
What's up with neo buggy saying TP MAY be leaving OD? It's only posted in the gossip corner but do they know something?
TP what's your take on this "gossip"
Big E
TP what's your take on this "gossip"
Big E