Mugen MBX5R
#826
Does anybody know were i can find aluminum parts.... For the f/r swaybar stops on the diff. boxes?
#827
#828
has anyone seen how nice the new mbx6 is , its very nice
#829
#830
Tech Master
iTrader: (24)
Can anyone give me some set up tips for my MBX5R on rough hard packed tracks with high grip? Im having trouble getting the buggy to run stable so it will stay on its wheels and jump cleanly. Should i be using softer or harder springs, thinner or thicker weight oils in shocks and diffs, kick up, ride height or whats the general rules of thumb to follow??
#831
(less meaning the arms dont come down as much once the buggy leaves the ground right)????
#832
#834
#836
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
Hi,
Moved the thread below to this forum.
Any comments on the issue with the bulge on the outside of the diff case along the screw?
Thanks,
Frank
Moved the thread below to this forum.
Any comments on the issue with the bulge on the outside of the diff case along the screw?
Thanks,
Frank
Tony, Thanks a lot for your tips!
I noticed one problem with my 5R diffs though:
I use 3x12mm screws to tighten down the spur gear/bevel gears on the diff cases. However, I noticed on one diff case today, that on the outside of the diff case the longer screws are causing bulges. I believe as soon as a screw gets into the case slightly off the 90 degree angle, it causes the case to bulge. Any thoughts on this? I might want to go one step back to 3x10mm?
Best regards,
Frank
I noticed one problem with my 5R diffs though:
I use 3x12mm screws to tighten down the spur gear/bevel gears on the diff cases. However, I noticed on one diff case today, that on the outside of the diff case the longer screws are causing bulges. I believe as soon as a screw gets into the case slightly off the 90 degree angle, it causes the case to bulge. Any thoughts on this? I might want to go one step back to 3x10mm?
Best regards,
Frank
Gen,
The Mugen diffs "can" leak in two places:
1] At the out-drive where the S5 o-ring seats
2] At the diff gasket
For the outdrives you need to use a good quality waterproof sythetic grease. Mugen Super Grease, Maxima sythetic grease or Mobil 1 sythetic grease all work well. You can get the Maxima grease from most motorcycle/ATV shops and the Mobil 1 grease is easily found in any auto parts store. Use the grease on the o-ring, on the shim and on the outdrive. Make sure you get grease in that groove on the outdrive. Don't be afraid to put on a lot of grease. The stock o-rings or slightly oversized o-rings both work well with the grease. I also sell the o-rings on my website. Since you're in Australia, I do all int'l orders via email as my cart doesn't support Int'l orders except for Canada, but shipping is cheap for just some o-rings.
On the gaskets, I've used both one or two gaskets on the diffs and it doesn't make a difference as mine never leaked. The two gaskets just feels smoother to me so why I use two gaskets now. But one gasket is fine too if you follow these steps. What I do is sand the diff cups smooth (tip from Chad Bradley when he ran for Mugen) to make sure they seat perfectly against the gears. It only takes about 20 seconds per diff cup and you only have to do it once, then the cups will last you gallons upon gallons. I use a 400, then 800 and then 1200 emery cloth paper. Just use a perfectly flat surface, lay down the paper and slide the cup around in a figure 8 pattern for a few seconds. Start with the 400 and work up to the 1200. Blow them off with compressed air to clean them. But the key to them not leaking here is to use longer screws. The 3x8mm flat head screws are way too short to get a good amount of torque on the gasket without the cup stripping out. Use 3x14mm flat heads and tighten in a star pattern.
If you do this to your diffs, they'll never leak.
Best regards,
The Mugen diffs "can" leak in two places:
1] At the out-drive where the S5 o-ring seats
2] At the diff gasket
For the outdrives you need to use a good quality waterproof sythetic grease. Mugen Super Grease, Maxima sythetic grease or Mobil 1 sythetic grease all work well. You can get the Maxima grease from most motorcycle/ATV shops and the Mobil 1 grease is easily found in any auto parts store. Use the grease on the o-ring, on the shim and on the outdrive. Make sure you get grease in that groove on the outdrive. Don't be afraid to put on a lot of grease. The stock o-rings or slightly oversized o-rings both work well with the grease. I also sell the o-rings on my website. Since you're in Australia, I do all int'l orders via email as my cart doesn't support Int'l orders except for Canada, but shipping is cheap for just some o-rings.
On the gaskets, I've used both one or two gaskets on the diffs and it doesn't make a difference as mine never leaked. The two gaskets just feels smoother to me so why I use two gaskets now. But one gasket is fine too if you follow these steps. What I do is sand the diff cups smooth (tip from Chad Bradley when he ran for Mugen) to make sure they seat perfectly against the gears. It only takes about 20 seconds per diff cup and you only have to do it once, then the cups will last you gallons upon gallons. I use a 400, then 800 and then 1200 emery cloth paper. Just use a perfectly flat surface, lay down the paper and slide the cup around in a figure 8 pattern for a few seconds. Start with the 400 and work up to the 1200. Blow them off with compressed air to clean them. But the key to them not leaking here is to use longer screws. The 3x8mm flat head screws are way too short to get a good amount of torque on the gasket without the cup stripping out. Use 3x14mm flat heads and tighten in a star pattern.
If you do this to your diffs, they'll never leak.
Best regards,
#837
Frank , I have seen the bulging bolts on my diffs when running the longer screws , haven't had any diff problems for years no real concern
I also run 2 diff gaskets and sand the faces also , but the only difference i measure the case width using some verniers then sand off )0.25mm from the faces as the gaskets are around 0.30mm this way i keep the stock internal clearances etc
I realize most people only sand a tiny bit and then use 2 gaskets so increasing the internal clearances slightly ,which makes a more open diff feeling , I haven't heard of someone blowing a diff because they were running 2 gaskets
just my 0.02cents
cheers
I also run 2 diff gaskets and sand the faces also , but the only difference i measure the case width using some verniers then sand off )0.25mm from the faces as the gaskets are around 0.30mm this way i keep the stock internal clearances etc
I realize most people only sand a tiny bit and then use 2 gaskets so increasing the internal clearances slightly ,which makes a more open diff feeling , I haven't heard of someone blowing a diff because they were running 2 gaskets
just my 0.02cents
cheers
#838
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Frank,
I posted on the other thread but I'll post here too. Grab a 2.5mm drill bit (3/32" will do) and using a cordless drill, run the the bit in and out of each diff cup hole SLOWLY. This will ensure it is the proper size (and clear) for the longer 3mm screw. I haven't had to do this on any of my diff cups, but since this stuff is molded plastic, you can always have a cup that isn't perfect.
Best regards,
I posted on the other thread but I'll post here too. Grab a 2.5mm drill bit (3/32" will do) and using a cordless drill, run the the bit in and out of each diff cup hole SLOWLY. This will ensure it is the proper size (and clear) for the longer 3mm screw. I haven't had to do this on any of my diff cups, but since this stuff is molded plastic, you can always have a cup that isn't perfect.
Best regards,
#839
Hey guys
I am giving the new RC8 clutch a go so far so good i like.
is that a tony screws sticker i see in the top left....
Tim
I am giving the new RC8 clutch a go so far so good i like.
is that a tony screws sticker i see in the top left....
Tim