Jammin CRT .5 = 1/12 Truggy
#1546
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#1547
#1548
#1549
Tech Rookie
wot break- in
anybody use the wot method to break- in a .12 engine???
#1550
Tech Rookie
anybody use the wot method to break- in a .12 engine???
#1551
having trouble tuning my 18tz - I can't seem to get it to idle without the car moving
when I richen it then it won't idle at all but just die, also when I hot the brake on for too long at a slightly rich setting the enine will die
there's like a 1.5mm gap in the car opening at idle, not sure why the engine would die when brakes are applied
any help guys?
when I richen it then it won't idle at all but just die, also when I hot the brake on for too long at a slightly rich setting the enine will die
there's like a 1.5mm gap in the car opening at idle, not sure why the engine would die when brakes are applied
any help guys?
#1552
sounds like a clutch problem, allways check your clutch first.
#1553
what in particular am I looking for? yes I'm noob
#1554
clutch
vt-look for bad bearings or a broken spring or misaligned shoe.anything that could cuse any friction to the clutch bell when the truck is sitting still.it isnt like our little engines have a lot of power and mass to have super consistent idle speeds.it doesnt take much friction or binding in there to cause an idle problem.
check to see if the clutch bell spins freely when the engine is out of the truck.it is even possible that the clutch nut has come loose and put a bind on the clutch bearings,ive had that happen a couple times.
i use the heat cycle method on my engines now.the method where you keep your engine running for a couple tanks .i let it get warm (around 200)by covering it up.then let it cool (about 120) by richening it up while applying throttle til it barely runs at full throttle.i do this a couple times til i get it up to around 230.
check to see if the clutch bell spins freely when the engine is out of the truck.it is even possible that the clutch nut has come loose and put a bind on the clutch bearings,ive had that happen a couple times.
i use the heat cycle method on my engines now.the method where you keep your engine running for a couple tanks .i let it get warm (around 200)by covering it up.then let it cool (about 120) by richening it up while applying throttle til it barely runs at full throttle.i do this a couple times til i get it up to around 230.
#1555
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
i use the heat cycle method on my engines now.the method where you keep your engine running for a couple tanks .i let it get warm (around 200)by covering it up.then let it cool (about 120) by richening it up while applying throttle til it barely runs at full throttle.i do this a couple times til i get it up to around 230.
#1557
#1558
Tech Addict
iTrader: (66)
I plan on racing with it. Hardcore racing. I raced it last season with the original chassis but I used the mini servos 9650 and hitec 225 somethin like that. Anyways I'll spend some money for the right thing so I guess there isnt much of a budget, but if you could tell me the low end choices and also the high end choices it would be appreciated. Thanks
#1559
Well if you dont want over kill these are what I use, mainly b/c I had them as spares and never needed them (Knock on wood, LOL)
Steering
Thr/brk
And if you notice the thr/brk is an anolog. I personally like the analog servos better for thr/brk. Less problems imo.
But as for price ranges you can go from $15-$180 servos. I feal for this little guy, $150 for both is plenty.
Steering
Thr/brk
And if you notice the thr/brk is an anolog. I personally like the analog servos better for thr/brk. Less problems imo.
But as for price ranges you can go from $15-$180 servos. I feal for this little guy, $150 for both is plenty.