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Old 02-10-2008, 05:56 PM
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.
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:11 AM
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that spring does not come with the .5 pipe it is sold seperately, part no. 10052



Originally Posted by portyansky
I am pretty sure that came with the JP-5 pipe.
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:23 AM
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that spring does not come with the .5 pipe it is sold seperately, part no. 10052



Originally Posted by portyansky
I am pretty sure that came with the JP-5 pipe.
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Old 02-11-2008, 01:05 PM
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Default wot break- in

anybody use the wot method to break- in a .12 engine???
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Old 02-11-2008, 01:17 PM
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anybody use the wot method to break- in a .12 engine???
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Old 02-11-2008, 03:16 PM
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having trouble tuning my 18tz - I can't seem to get it to idle without the car moving

when I richen it then it won't idle at all but just die, also when I hot the brake on for too long at a slightly rich setting the enine will die

there's like a 1.5mm gap in the car opening at idle, not sure why the engine would die when brakes are applied

any help guys?
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Old 02-11-2008, 03:20 PM
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sounds like a clutch problem, allways check your clutch first.
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Old 02-11-2008, 03:38 PM
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what in particular am I looking for? yes I'm noob
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Old 02-11-2008, 04:33 PM
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vt-look for bad bearings or a broken spring or misaligned shoe.anything that could cuse any friction to the clutch bell when the truck is sitting still.it isnt like our little engines have a lot of power and mass to have super consistent idle speeds.it doesnt take much friction or binding in there to cause an idle problem.
check to see if the clutch bell spins freely when the engine is out of the truck.it is even possible that the clutch nut has come loose and put a bind on the clutch bearings,ive had that happen a couple times.
i use the heat cycle method on my engines now.the method where you keep your engine running for a couple tanks .i let it get warm (around 200)by covering it up.then let it cool (about 120) by richening it up while applying throttle til it barely runs at full throttle.i do this a couple times til i get it up to around 230.
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Old 02-11-2008, 05:45 PM
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i use the heat cycle method on my engines now.the method where you keep your engine running for a couple tanks .i let it get warm (around 200)by covering it up.then let it cool (about 120) by richening it up while applying throttle til it barely runs at full throttle.i do this a couple times til i get it up to around 230.
+1 for the heat cycle method. works great on all engines.
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Old 02-11-2008, 06:34 PM
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I just recently got the extended chassis for my crt.5. Anyone have any tips on what seems to be the best full size servos I should get???
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Old 02-12-2008, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaypeezy
I just recently got the extended chassis for my crt.5. Anyone have any tips on what seems to be the best full size servos I should get???
It all depends on your budget. And what are you doing with it, bashing or racing.
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Old 02-12-2008, 09:37 AM
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I plan on racing with it. Hardcore racing. I raced it last season with the original chassis but I used the mini servos 9650 and hitec 225 somethin like that. Anyways I'll spend some money for the right thing so I guess there isnt much of a budget, but if you could tell me the low end choices and also the high end choices it would be appreciated. Thanks
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Old 02-12-2008, 09:51 AM
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Well if you dont want over kill these are what I use, mainly b/c I had them as spares and never needed them (Knock on wood, LOL)
Steering
Thr/brk

And if you notice the thr/brk is an anolog. I personally like the analog servos better for thr/brk. Less problems imo.

But as for price ranges you can go from $15-$180 servos. I feal for this little guy, $150 for both is plenty.
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Old 02-12-2008, 01:35 PM
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Thanks for the info portyansky I think I might give those servos a try
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