Mcran

This is what our team manager Andrew posted on another forum about the new shocks:

We have new shocks with the Re-Matrix that (So-Far) have proven to
be extremely nice. After a decent amount of run time, the oil is
crystal clear inside as the bodies are coated. We will also have
machined teflon pistons that are extremely precise. New Springs,
clips, rod ends, etc. They are the same bore as the current shocks,
but much much better. We will be producing big bore shocks as an
option / upgrade in the near future though.

I have been going back and forth with our 14mm shocks and the big
bores and our new 14mm shocks are much more consistent. But I have
not tryed the Jammin shocks or any other brand. I may test them vs
our new shocks soon.

Here's a link for part MX088:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...=mx088&x=4&y=7

bobf24

iTrader: (28)

the jumping thing is probally just the BMX jumps, once your on a track with properly built "RC" jumps it should be fine,

malik

iTrader: (19)

Thanks that part is not listed on Cen's site right now for some reason. About the jumps I am shure that is the reason , or maybe I am just alittle too touchy on and of throttlem. Anyway its a easy fix. I am very appreciative of your help Mcran and everybdy else I am shure I wll need alittle help some where in the near future.

wriffwraff

i saw a post and photo regarding this mod on page 17 of this thread. however, there are a few difference's in my mod and the one pictured earlier. i used ofna crt truggy [plastic] chassis braces and the cen ready to run buggy front chassis plate instead of the cen cnc plate. i mounted my front chassis brace on the servo side of the chassis instead of the fuel tank side b/c the kyosho truggy tank that i'm running, sits at an angle, which leaves no room for a brace.

the center diff is the motive for all this. i mean, if this works, i can service my front and rear diffs individually. yeah, so, if this works, i can let that " jenga " center diff assembly sit and rot

again, gonna' test it today... hopefully, i won't return from the track with my hopes, dreams and truggy in a diaper

if you care to comment on this "no-money-down" mod, please do

malik

iTrader: (19)

Hey, Gene I got those threaded hinge pins you talked about on a few pages back. They are all for the inside up front, does Cen make any for the front and rear hubs? And if not what do you do?

TRArena

Hey Malik

Option 1 - "cheap as chips" option -

Remove the e-clips and dremel the front and rear hinge pins so they sit flush with the outside of the arms. Then get a 3mm button head screw (or a counter sunk washer and screw) and screw it into the arm (on the inner side of the hinge pin) so that half of the screw head (or counter sunk washer) covers the hinge pin. Simple and cheap.

Option 2 - a threaded hinge pin option (this is the one i would recommend - it's gonna cost around USD$30.00 all up but IMHO it's worth it to get rid of those damn e-clips )

you will need -

a) either the Cen GS027 42mm threaded pin or the K-Factory 41.5mm hardened threaded pin (for the front arms)
b) K-Factory 49.5mm hardened threaded pin (for the rear arms)
c) Cen MXS34 and MXS35 wheel base spacers

heres' some links to the K-Factory pins -

http://www.rcshopping.com/profra.jsp...searname=k8031
http://www.rcshopping.com/profra.jsp...searname=k8032

With the front pins you can use the 1mm spacer between the front hub carrier and the arm to reduce some of the slack between the two. The 4mm spacer is used as a shim between the head of the threaded pin and the arm. Tighten up and check for binding (there shouldn't be any with the CNC hub carrier but if you are using the stock plastic one, you may need to remove the 1mm spacer)

With the rear ones, you will need to countersink the head 1 mm into the arm and reverse the nylon nut to get a good grab without binding. I used the 5mm spacer between the rear hub and the inside of the arm.


I have also heard of some guy's using hardened screws (or bolts i guess is a more accurate descripton) available from "Tony's Screws" but i have not heard any feedback on how they stood up to the job.

Heres's a couple of pics of one of mine (i used the Cen pin on the front on this one - the K-Factory one is prob better - it's lighter, stronger and the head is flatter - but it is a flat headed screw driver head not a hex head like the cen one)

malik

iTrader: (19)

Thanks TR I was thinking asbout going the dremel route. But I ab now debating which was to go. How long of a screw would you use? And thanks.....

TRArena

If you mean the screw on the 'dremel option' then a 3mm x 6-8mm button head or a 3mm x 8-10mm flat head with 3mm counter sunk washer should do the trick. If you wanna have a look at the 'Tony's Screws' option send a PM to wriffwraff as i think he went with that on the rear arms.

Machine's R/C H

We do not have a proto TR arena yet. The Truck me and Andrew are runnning right now is a TR Arena with the BCE chassis. It saves about 1 pound in all. I will have them in stock next week.

[email protected]

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...cell/c2x08.jpg

slaytanic

iTrader: (20)

Gene, what center CVD's would you recommend with the BCE chassis? Thanks!

cleblanc

iTrader: (49)

Gene, whats the price on the BCE chassis??

malik

iTrader: (19)

Is there any other brand of wingmount that will fit the TR? And is there also another brands front knuckle that will fit? I was practicing today for the first time and these 2 parts broke. I didnt even know the knuckle was broke until inspection, the upper screw stripped out. I hear this happens easily so I am looking for an alternative dont really have $70 right now for the cnc. I just bought all of my tires, my season starts saturday. Or if anybody has a used set? Thanks fellas

wriffwraff

malik: tony's screws, cap head, 3 x 40 mm for the outer front and 3 x 50 mm for the outer rear. you can use the gs027's for the front lower outer as well. you just have to use a spacer to make up for the extra length of the pins, if you go that route.

the mugen truggy wing mount will work. you have to find a way to make it fit though, cos' different companies use different design's, you know? upside is that the cen truck has many wing mount holes/slots, so a little creativity will go a long way. just make sure it's good and secure and you'll be good to go for a long time. i replaced it a good while back and i haven't had to replace it yet.

front

rear

mugen wing mount

malik

iTrader: (19)

Thanks, I am going to call Genes shop in alittle bit here and get the mugen wing mount. I was starting to clean up my truck yesterday and noticed that my front uptravel was limited, it was never like that before I mean even when I lift the front end up it wouldnt go to full down travel then I noticed both of my upper turnbuckles were bent. So I replaced them and got some back but I think I may have some binding from when I put the gso25 or o27. The larger one that is the front inner arm pin. Could I have over tightened it? When I installed them I tightened them pretty well and was tinking about binding them up but I am not shure.

cleblanc

iTrader: (49)

the jammin captured pins kit for the cr and CRT works perfect and you actually hav 2 pins for the inner front lower arms left over. Will only set you back about $30 through ebay!