Team Associated 1/8 scale Buggy Info and Tips
05-09-2011, 05:42 PM
#9751
Hey guys, If anyone needs Impulse-r/c clutch shoes get ahold of me. $12 a set. I was out for the winter and closed the website but have tons in stock. All will ship out USPS Priority Mail. PM me.
05-09-2011, 06:45 PM
#9752
Yesterday I really struggled with my brake setup. At the end of the two fastest parts of the track when I got on the brakes the rear-end would come around. I fought this all day!! The discs were brand new. I have heard two different explanations as to what my problem was; too much front bias or too much rear bias. I spent a lot of time setting the brakes up. Even redid the setup trackside. Any thoughts, tips, theories? I like a very aggressive bake setup. When I hit the brakes I want the car to stop. I like running deep in to the turn before getting on the brakes. Maybe this technique does not work well in off road? Right now I am running more front bias. In the main I gave up and set the car up with very little if no brakes at all. Personally, I am working from the thought process that most of the stopping power is in the front brakes. I know one thought is more rear bias helps the car square up better in the turn.
05-09-2011, 11:12 PM
#9753
Hey guys. Sorry I haven’t been on this thread in quite a while. I’ve been crazy busy with all the new races, new vehicles and preparation for the 1:10 Worlds. I’ll see if I can clear up a few things I’ve read over the most recent 10 pages or so.
UPDATE KIT – You guys all know what comes in the update kit. We chose those parts since the make the most significant improvements to the current car. If you choose to add the chassis, steering posts, lightweight outdrives, etc. that’s something you can do as funds become available.
MODIFIED ARMS – The arms will be a modified version of the standard RC8 arms. We did this to get the parts out to you, the customer, sooner. We’ve been running the modified arms for 6 months with no additional breakage concerns, so it should be strong enough for everyone. Yea, it’s not the most glamorous solution, but the parts will be machined in house on our CNC machine for precision. I believe the plan is to mold a new a-arm with the in-arm shock geometry, but don’t quote me on that.
IN ARM SHOCK HANDLING – The general feeling of the new shock tower and arm package is that the car is more forgiving to drive, especially in rougher conditions. The RC8 has always had good speed and an aggressive feel. We’ve taken a bit of the edginess of the car out and replaced it with a more forgiving feel. This should translate to faster overall times in longer runs, especially for the average driver.
LOW B PLATE – This lowers the front roll center. With the geometry changes to the towers, we were able to lower the front roll center which makes the car land more forgiving and reduces flipping on high grip situations. It also allows us to run more kick-up in the a-arm. To give you an idea, with the low b plate and 3 dot down, this gives the same amount of kick up as the standard b plate and 2 dot up. We are currently running 2 dot up and the low b plate, so another 3 degrees of kick-up in the a-arm.
BLACK ALUMINUM TOWERS VS CARBON TOWERS – As mentioned in the video I did for Neobuggy (http://vimeo.com/22796185), the geometry of the two towers is identical. We have found that more droop made the black towers even better. The carbon towers have the extra droop built in. This allows us to use the standard shock eyelet. We are testing both options.
KYOSHO LIGHT BLUE SPRINGS – We have been running these in conjunction with the carbon test towers. Since the towers have more droop accounted for, the overall shock length is shorter. The Kyosho springs are shorter than our current ones. With our springs, the standard 28-30 mm of ride height is not achievable. We have been using the 70 mm front and 84 mm rear length springs. The closest Associated springs in rate are silver/silver.
LOWERED WING MOD – I will see what we can do to get the instructions on how to modify the current wing mount to run it low. I’ve heard rumblings of an entire new wing mount, but nothing concrete.
CVAS BENDING – I personally turn my dual rate down 10% from full throw. This still gives the RC8 more steering throw than 99% of cars on the market and really helps save front dog bones.
RED SIDEWINDER FUEL @ NEO2011 – Someone nailed it, the Strike 30% fuel wasn’t available in England, so the Sidewinder drivers used the 30% World Blend at the Neo2011 event. Still got killer run time with the Reedy engine and a 6mm restrictor.
GREMLINS OF THE RC8 – This one is pretty funny. Like all cars, the RC8B does have a few hiccups, but if you know to look for them the car can be really reliable and fun to drive.
1) The stock fuel line has had some weird failures. I recommend Dubro.
2) For the most part, the fuel tank issues are resolved. It only took 3 years, but they seem reliable 49 out of 50 times.
3) The front caster block assembly may require some hand fitting for free steering. Be sure to line up the “triangle inserts” properly in the spindle and use red loctite to secure the screws.
4) We have changed to a clear diff o-ring. If your kit doesn’t have these, use them and you’ll be much happier with your diff seal.
5) We’ve seen some flywheel pins come out. If you have the means to remove the pins and re-insert them with red loctite, you shouldn’t have any failures.
6) The steering rod ends have been a strange part since day 1. My recommendation is to boil them for 10 minutes. This will help strengthen them. Also, try to change them every 2 hours of running or so.
7) The shock bushings wear out quite quickly.
Those are the main things I can think of. As you can see, they are pretty minor in comparison to other vehicles that eat servos, or clutches or major plastic parts.
Like I said to start, sorry I haven’t been on here that much, but we do have some great team representatives out there to assist all the customers. If you’re in a major pocket of racing and don’t have a Team Associated representative, let me know. We strive to support our customers and racers at the local level with quality representatives with the knowledge of the entire team. If you do have a team driver at your local track and are considering the RC8 or the updates, ask if you can drive their car for a few laps. Most guys are more than willing to let someone wheel their car for a few laps. Until next time…
UPDATE KIT – You guys all know what comes in the update kit. We chose those parts since the make the most significant improvements to the current car. If you choose to add the chassis, steering posts, lightweight outdrives, etc. that’s something you can do as funds become available.
MODIFIED ARMS – The arms will be a modified version of the standard RC8 arms. We did this to get the parts out to you, the customer, sooner. We’ve been running the modified arms for 6 months with no additional breakage concerns, so it should be strong enough for everyone. Yea, it’s not the most glamorous solution, but the parts will be machined in house on our CNC machine for precision. I believe the plan is to mold a new a-arm with the in-arm shock geometry, but don’t quote me on that.
IN ARM SHOCK HANDLING – The general feeling of the new shock tower and arm package is that the car is more forgiving to drive, especially in rougher conditions. The RC8 has always had good speed and an aggressive feel. We’ve taken a bit of the edginess of the car out and replaced it with a more forgiving feel. This should translate to faster overall times in longer runs, especially for the average driver.
LOW B PLATE – This lowers the front roll center. With the geometry changes to the towers, we were able to lower the front roll center which makes the car land more forgiving and reduces flipping on high grip situations. It also allows us to run more kick-up in the a-arm. To give you an idea, with the low b plate and 3 dot down, this gives the same amount of kick up as the standard b plate and 2 dot up. We are currently running 2 dot up and the low b plate, so another 3 degrees of kick-up in the a-arm.
BLACK ALUMINUM TOWERS VS CARBON TOWERS – As mentioned in the video I did for Neobuggy (http://vimeo.com/22796185), the geometry of the two towers is identical. We have found that more droop made the black towers even better. The carbon towers have the extra droop built in. This allows us to use the standard shock eyelet. We are testing both options.
KYOSHO LIGHT BLUE SPRINGS – We have been running these in conjunction with the carbon test towers. Since the towers have more droop accounted for, the overall shock length is shorter. The Kyosho springs are shorter than our current ones. With our springs, the standard 28-30 mm of ride height is not achievable. We have been using the 70 mm front and 84 mm rear length springs. The closest Associated springs in rate are silver/silver.
LOWERED WING MOD – I will see what we can do to get the instructions on how to modify the current wing mount to run it low. I’ve heard rumblings of an entire new wing mount, but nothing concrete.
CVAS BENDING – I personally turn my dual rate down 10% from full throw. This still gives the RC8 more steering throw than 99% of cars on the market and really helps save front dog bones.
RED SIDEWINDER FUEL @ NEO2011 – Someone nailed it, the Strike 30% fuel wasn’t available in England, so the Sidewinder drivers used the 30% World Blend at the Neo2011 event. Still got killer run time with the Reedy engine and a 6mm restrictor.
GREMLINS OF THE RC8 – This one is pretty funny. Like all cars, the RC8B does have a few hiccups, but if you know to look for them the car can be really reliable and fun to drive.
1) The stock fuel line has had some weird failures. I recommend Dubro.
2) For the most part, the fuel tank issues are resolved. It only took 3 years, but they seem reliable 49 out of 50 times.
3) The front caster block assembly may require some hand fitting for free steering. Be sure to line up the “triangle inserts” properly in the spindle and use red loctite to secure the screws.
4) We have changed to a clear diff o-ring. If your kit doesn’t have these, use them and you’ll be much happier with your diff seal.
5) We’ve seen some flywheel pins come out. If you have the means to remove the pins and re-insert them with red loctite, you shouldn’t have any failures.
6) The steering rod ends have been a strange part since day 1. My recommendation is to boil them for 10 minutes. This will help strengthen them. Also, try to change them every 2 hours of running or so.
7) The shock bushings wear out quite quickly.
Those are the main things I can think of. As you can see, they are pretty minor in comparison to other vehicles that eat servos, or clutches or major plastic parts.
Like I said to start, sorry I haven’t been on here that much, but we do have some great team representatives out there to assist all the customers. If you’re in a major pocket of racing and don’t have a Team Associated representative, let me know. We strive to support our customers and racers at the local level with quality representatives with the knowledge of the entire team. If you do have a team driver at your local track and are considering the RC8 or the updates, ask if you can drive their car for a few laps. Most guys are more than willing to let someone wheel their car for a few laps. Until next time…
05-09-2011, 11:31 PM
#9754
Hey guys. Sorry I haven’t been on this thread in quite a while. I’ve been crazy busy with all the new races, new vehicles and preparation for the 1:10 Worlds. I’ll see if I can clear up a few things I’ve read over the most recent 10 pages or so.
UPDATE KIT – You guys all know what comes in the update kit. We chose those parts since the make the most significant improvements to the current car. If you choose to add the chassis, steering posts, lightweight outdrives, etc. that’s something you can do as funds become available.
MODIFIED ARMS – The arms will be a modified version of the standard RC8 arms. We did this to get the parts out to you, the customer, sooner. We’ve been running the modified arms for 6 months with no additional breakage concerns, so it should be strong enough for everyone. Yea, it’s not the most glamorous solution, but the parts will be machined in house on our CNC machine for precision. I believe the plan is to mold a new a-arm with the in-arm shock geometry, but don’t quote me on that.
IN ARM SHOCK HANDLING – The general feeling of the new shock tower and arm package is that the car is more forgiving to drive, especially in rougher conditions. The RC8 has always had good speed and an aggressive feel. We’ve taken a bit of the edginess of the car out and replaced it with a more forgiving feel. This should translate to faster overall times in longer runs, especially for the average driver.
LOW B PLATE – This lowers the front roll center. With the geometry changes to the towers, we were able to lower the front roll center which makes the car land more forgiving and reduces flipping on high grip situations. It also allows us to run more kick-up in the a-arm. To give you an idea, with the low b plate and 3 dot down, this gives the same amount of kick up as the standard b plate and 2 dot up. We are currently running 2 dot up and the low b plate, so another 3 degrees of kick-up in the a-arm.
BLACK ALUMINUM TOWERS VS CARBON TOWERS – As mentioned in the video I did for Neobuggy (http://vimeo.com/22796185), the geometry of the two towers is identical. We have found that more droop made the black towers even better. The carbon towers have the extra droop built in. This allows us to use the standard shock eyelet. We are testing both options.
KYOSHO LIGHT BLUE SPRINGS – We have been running these in conjunction with the carbon test towers. Since the towers have more droop accounted for, the overall shock length is shorter. The Kyosho springs are shorter than our current ones. With our springs, the standard 28-30 mm of ride height is not achievable. We have been using the 70 mm front and 84 mm rear length springs. The closest Associated springs in rate are silver/silver.
LOWERED WING MOD – I will see what we can do to get the instructions on how to modify the current wing mount to run it low. I’ve heard rumblings of an entire new wing mount, but nothing concrete.
CVAS BENDING – I personally turn my dual rate down 10% from full throw. This still gives the RC8 more steering throw than 99% of cars on the market and really helps save front dog bones.
RED SIDEWINDER FUEL @ NEO2011 – Someone nailed it, the Strike 30% fuel wasn’t available in England, so the Sidewinder drivers used the 30% World Blend at the Neo2011 event. Still got killer run time with the Reedy engine and a 6mm restrictor.
GREMLINS OF THE RC8 – This one is pretty funny. Like all cars, the RC8B does have a few hiccups, but if you know to look for them the car can be really reliable and fun to drive.
1) The stock fuel line has had some weird failures. I recommend Dubro.
2) For the most part, the fuel tank issues are resolved. It only took 3 years, but they seem reliable 49 out of 50 times.
3) The front caster block assembly may require some hand fitting for free steering. Be sure to line up the “triangle inserts” properly in the spindle and use red loctite to secure the screws.
4) We have changed to a clear diff o-ring. If your kit doesn’t have these, use them and you’ll be much happier with your diff seal.
5) We’ve seen some flywheel pins come out. If you have the means to remove the pins and re-insert them with red loctite, you shouldn’t have any failures.
6) The steering rod ends have been a strange part since day 1. My recommendation is to boil them for 10 minutes. This will help strengthen them. Also, try to change them every 2 hours of running or so.
7) The shock bushings wear out quite quickly.
Those are the main things I can think of. As you can see, they are pretty minor in comparison to other vehicles that eat servos, or clutches or major plastic parts.
Like I said to start, sorry I haven’t been on here that much, but we do have some great team representatives out there to assist all the customers. If you’re in a major pocket of racing and don’t have a Team Associated representative, let me know. We strive to support our customers and racers at the local level with quality representatives with the knowledge of the entire team. If you do have a team driver at your local track and are considering the RC8 or the updates, ask if you can drive their car for a few laps. Most guys are more than willing to let someone wheel their car for a few laps. Until next time…
UPDATE KIT – You guys all know what comes in the update kit. We chose those parts since the make the most significant improvements to the current car. If you choose to add the chassis, steering posts, lightweight outdrives, etc. that’s something you can do as funds become available.
MODIFIED ARMS – The arms will be a modified version of the standard RC8 arms. We did this to get the parts out to you, the customer, sooner. We’ve been running the modified arms for 6 months with no additional breakage concerns, so it should be strong enough for everyone. Yea, it’s not the most glamorous solution, but the parts will be machined in house on our CNC machine for precision. I believe the plan is to mold a new a-arm with the in-arm shock geometry, but don’t quote me on that.
IN ARM SHOCK HANDLING – The general feeling of the new shock tower and arm package is that the car is more forgiving to drive, especially in rougher conditions. The RC8 has always had good speed and an aggressive feel. We’ve taken a bit of the edginess of the car out and replaced it with a more forgiving feel. This should translate to faster overall times in longer runs, especially for the average driver.
LOW B PLATE – This lowers the front roll center. With the geometry changes to the towers, we were able to lower the front roll center which makes the car land more forgiving and reduces flipping on high grip situations. It also allows us to run more kick-up in the a-arm. To give you an idea, with the low b plate and 3 dot down, this gives the same amount of kick up as the standard b plate and 2 dot up. We are currently running 2 dot up and the low b plate, so another 3 degrees of kick-up in the a-arm.
BLACK ALUMINUM TOWERS VS CARBON TOWERS – As mentioned in the video I did for Neobuggy (http://vimeo.com/22796185), the geometry of the two towers is identical. We have found that more droop made the black towers even better. The carbon towers have the extra droop built in. This allows us to use the standard shock eyelet. We are testing both options.
KYOSHO LIGHT BLUE SPRINGS – We have been running these in conjunction with the carbon test towers. Since the towers have more droop accounted for, the overall shock length is shorter. The Kyosho springs are shorter than our current ones. With our springs, the standard 28-30 mm of ride height is not achievable. We have been using the 70 mm front and 84 mm rear length springs. The closest Associated springs in rate are silver/silver.
LOWERED WING MOD – I will see what we can do to get the instructions on how to modify the current wing mount to run it low. I’ve heard rumblings of an entire new wing mount, but nothing concrete.
CVAS BENDING – I personally turn my dual rate down 10% from full throw. This still gives the RC8 more steering throw than 99% of cars on the market and really helps save front dog bones.
RED SIDEWINDER FUEL @ NEO2011 – Someone nailed it, the Strike 30% fuel wasn’t available in England, so the Sidewinder drivers used the 30% World Blend at the Neo2011 event. Still got killer run time with the Reedy engine and a 6mm restrictor.
GREMLINS OF THE RC8 – This one is pretty funny. Like all cars, the RC8B does have a few hiccups, but if you know to look for them the car can be really reliable and fun to drive.
1) The stock fuel line has had some weird failures. I recommend Dubro.
2) For the most part, the fuel tank issues are resolved. It only took 3 years, but they seem reliable 49 out of 50 times.
3) The front caster block assembly may require some hand fitting for free steering. Be sure to line up the “triangle inserts” properly in the spindle and use red loctite to secure the screws.
4) We have changed to a clear diff o-ring. If your kit doesn’t have these, use them and you’ll be much happier with your diff seal.
5) We’ve seen some flywheel pins come out. If you have the means to remove the pins and re-insert them with red loctite, you shouldn’t have any failures.
6) The steering rod ends have been a strange part since day 1. My recommendation is to boil them for 10 minutes. This will help strengthen them. Also, try to change them every 2 hours of running or so.
7) The shock bushings wear out quite quickly.
Those are the main things I can think of. As you can see, they are pretty minor in comparison to other vehicles that eat servos, or clutches or major plastic parts.
Like I said to start, sorry I haven’t been on here that much, but we do have some great team representatives out there to assist all the customers. If you’re in a major pocket of racing and don’t have a Team Associated representative, let me know. We strive to support our customers and racers at the local level with quality representatives with the knowledge of the entire team. If you do have a team driver at your local track and are considering the RC8 or the updates, ask if you can drive their car for a few laps. Most guys are more than willing to let someone wheel their car for a few laps. Until next time…
Where can i get the rubber Diff seals?
05-10-2011, 12:13 AM
#9755
The new diff o-rings are a running change to the part #89121
05-10-2011, 03:44 PM
#9756
For Brent Thielke's post, thank you. That single post answered more questions and gave more info than any other post on here with possible exceptions to some of Brandon Melton's. Posts like that go a long way to keeping AE customers happy. I was very curious about the new B plate and how it affected the kick up now I know.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Last edited by dragracechief; 05-10-2011 at 06:34 PM.
05-11-2011, 04:44 PM
#9757
Hey guys. Sorry I haven’t been on this thread in quite a while. I’ve been crazy busy with all the new races, new vehicles and preparation for the 1:10 Worlds. I’ll see if I can clear up a few things I’ve read over the most recent 10 pages or so.
UPDATE KIT – You guys all know what comes in the update kit. We chose those parts since the make the most significant improvements to the current car. If you choose to add the chassis, steering posts, lightweight outdrives, etc. that’s something you can do as funds become available.
MODIFIED ARMS – The arms will be a modified version of the standard RC8 arms. We did this to get the parts out to you, the customer, sooner. We’ve been running the modified arms for 6 months with no additional breakage concerns, so it should be strong enough for everyone. Yea, it’s not the most glamorous solution, but the parts will be machined in house on our CNC machine for precision. I believe the plan is to mold a new a-arm with the in-arm shock geometry, but don’t quote me on that.
IN ARM SHOCK HANDLING – The general feeling of the new shock tower and arm package is that the car is more forgiving to drive, especially in rougher conditions. The RC8 has always had good speed and an aggressive feel. We’ve taken a bit of the edginess of the car out and replaced it with a more forgiving feel. This should translate to faster overall times in longer runs, especially for the average driver.
LOW B PLATE – This lowers the front roll center. With the geometry changes to the towers, we were able to lower the front roll center which makes the car land more forgiving and reduces flipping on high grip situations. It also allows us to run more kick-up in the a-arm. To give you an idea, with the low b plate and 3 dot down, this gives the same amount of kick up as the standard b plate and 2 dot up. We are currently running 2 dot up and the low b plate, so another 3 degrees of kick-up in the a-arm.
BLACK ALUMINUM TOWERS VS CARBON TOWERS – As mentioned in the video I did for Neobuggy (http://vimeo.com/22796185), the geometry of the two towers is identical. We have found that more droop made the black towers even better. The carbon towers have the extra droop built in. This allows us to use the standard shock eyelet. We are testing both options.
KYOSHO LIGHT BLUE SPRINGS – We have been running these in conjunction with the carbon test towers. Since the towers have more droop accounted for, the overall shock length is shorter. The Kyosho springs are shorter than our current ones. With our springs, the standard 28-30 mm of ride height is not achievable. We have been using the 70 mm front and 84 mm rear length springs. The closest Associated springs in rate are silver/silver.
LOWERED WING MOD – I will see what we can do to get the instructions on how to modify the current wing mount to run it low. I’ve heard rumblings of an entire new wing mount, but nothing concrete.
CVAS BENDING – I personally turn my dual rate down 10% from full throw. This still gives the RC8 more steering throw than 99% of cars on the market and really helps save front dog bones.
RED SIDEWINDER FUEL @ NEO2011 – Someone nailed it, the Strike 30% fuel wasn’t available in England, so the Sidewinder drivers used the 30% World Blend at the Neo2011 event. Still got killer run time with the Reedy engine and a 6mm restrictor.
GREMLINS OF THE RC8 – This one is pretty funny. Like all cars, the RC8B does have a few hiccups, but if you know to look for them the car can be really reliable and fun to drive.
1) The stock fuel line has had some weird failures. I recommend Dubro.
2) For the most part, the fuel tank issues are resolved. It only took 3 years, but they seem reliable 49 out of 50 times.
3) The front caster block assembly may require some hand fitting for free steering. Be sure to line up the “triangle inserts” properly in the spindle and use red loctite to secure the screws.
4) We have changed to a clear diff o-ring. If your kit doesn’t have these, use them and you’ll be much happier with your diff seal.
5) We’ve seen some flywheel pins come out. If you have the means to remove the pins and re-insert them with red loctite, you shouldn’t have any failures.
6) The steering rod ends have been a strange part since day 1. My recommendation is to boil them for 10 minutes. This will help strengthen them. Also, try to change them every 2 hours of running or so.
7) The shock bushings wear out quite quickly.
Those are the main things I can think of. As you can see, they are pretty minor in comparison to other vehicles that eat servos, or clutches or major plastic parts.
Like I said to start, sorry I haven’t been on here that much, but we do have some great team representatives out there to assist all the customers. If you’re in a major pocket of racing and don’t have a Team Associated representative, let me know. We strive to support our customers and racers at the local level with quality representatives with the knowledge of the entire team. If you do have a team driver at your local track and are considering the RC8 or the updates, ask if you can drive their car for a few laps. Most guys are more than willing to let someone wheel their car for a few laps. Until next time…
UPDATE KIT – You guys all know what comes in the update kit. We chose those parts since the make the most significant improvements to the current car. If you choose to add the chassis, steering posts, lightweight outdrives, etc. that’s something you can do as funds become available.
MODIFIED ARMS – The arms will be a modified version of the standard RC8 arms. We did this to get the parts out to you, the customer, sooner. We’ve been running the modified arms for 6 months with no additional breakage concerns, so it should be strong enough for everyone. Yea, it’s not the most glamorous solution, but the parts will be machined in house on our CNC machine for precision. I believe the plan is to mold a new a-arm with the in-arm shock geometry, but don’t quote me on that.
IN ARM SHOCK HANDLING – The general feeling of the new shock tower and arm package is that the car is more forgiving to drive, especially in rougher conditions. The RC8 has always had good speed and an aggressive feel. We’ve taken a bit of the edginess of the car out and replaced it with a more forgiving feel. This should translate to faster overall times in longer runs, especially for the average driver.
LOW B PLATE – This lowers the front roll center. With the geometry changes to the towers, we were able to lower the front roll center which makes the car land more forgiving and reduces flipping on high grip situations. It also allows us to run more kick-up in the a-arm. To give you an idea, with the low b plate and 3 dot down, this gives the same amount of kick up as the standard b plate and 2 dot up. We are currently running 2 dot up and the low b plate, so another 3 degrees of kick-up in the a-arm.
BLACK ALUMINUM TOWERS VS CARBON TOWERS – As mentioned in the video I did for Neobuggy (http://vimeo.com/22796185), the geometry of the two towers is identical. We have found that more droop made the black towers even better. The carbon towers have the extra droop built in. This allows us to use the standard shock eyelet. We are testing both options.
KYOSHO LIGHT BLUE SPRINGS – We have been running these in conjunction with the carbon test towers. Since the towers have more droop accounted for, the overall shock length is shorter. The Kyosho springs are shorter than our current ones. With our springs, the standard 28-30 mm of ride height is not achievable. We have been using the 70 mm front and 84 mm rear length springs. The closest Associated springs in rate are silver/silver.
LOWERED WING MOD – I will see what we can do to get the instructions on how to modify the current wing mount to run it low. I’ve heard rumblings of an entire new wing mount, but nothing concrete.
CVAS BENDING – I personally turn my dual rate down 10% from full throw. This still gives the RC8 more steering throw than 99% of cars on the market and really helps save front dog bones.
RED SIDEWINDER FUEL @ NEO2011 – Someone nailed it, the Strike 30% fuel wasn’t available in England, so the Sidewinder drivers used the 30% World Blend at the Neo2011 event. Still got killer run time with the Reedy engine and a 6mm restrictor.
GREMLINS OF THE RC8 – This one is pretty funny. Like all cars, the RC8B does have a few hiccups, but if you know to look for them the car can be really reliable and fun to drive.
1) The stock fuel line has had some weird failures. I recommend Dubro.
2) For the most part, the fuel tank issues are resolved. It only took 3 years, but they seem reliable 49 out of 50 times.
3) The front caster block assembly may require some hand fitting for free steering. Be sure to line up the “triangle inserts” properly in the spindle and use red loctite to secure the screws.
4) We have changed to a clear diff o-ring. If your kit doesn’t have these, use them and you’ll be much happier with your diff seal.
5) We’ve seen some flywheel pins come out. If you have the means to remove the pins and re-insert them with red loctite, you shouldn’t have any failures.
6) The steering rod ends have been a strange part since day 1. My recommendation is to boil them for 10 minutes. This will help strengthen them. Also, try to change them every 2 hours of running or so.
7) The shock bushings wear out quite quickly.
Those are the main things I can think of. As you can see, they are pretty minor in comparison to other vehicles that eat servos, or clutches or major plastic parts.
Like I said to start, sorry I haven’t been on here that much, but we do have some great team representatives out there to assist all the customers. If you’re in a major pocket of racing and don’t have a Team Associated representative, let me know. We strive to support our customers and racers at the local level with quality representatives with the knowledge of the entire team. If you do have a team driver at your local track and are considering the RC8 or the updates, ask if you can drive their car for a few laps. Most guys are more than willing to let someone wheel their car for a few laps. Until next time…
Brent were you guys running the 8 x 1.3 pistons? It seems to not have enough pack with the 10x1.1 pistons and the kyosho springs. any help on starting point on oils would be appreciated.
05-11-2011, 06:50 PM
#9758
Going to try a few things this weekend one of them being an improvised low B-plate. I took a stock A-plate like on the RTR version and modded it slightly to go in the B-plate position with 3 dots down. Should be able to get an idea of how the new B-plate performs with this low tech no cost mod before the new piece is available.
05-12-2011, 02:40 PM
#9760
From what has been said NO. I imagine the B means buggy. So no C
05-12-2011, 04:20 PM
#9762
Hey guys. Sorry I haven’t been on this thread in quite a while. I’ve been crazy busy with all the new races, new vehicles and preparation for the 1:10 Worlds. I’ll see if I can clear up a few things I’ve read over the most recent 10 pages or so.
UPDATE KIT – You guys all know what comes in the update kit. We chose those parts since the make the most significant improvements to the current car. If you choose to add the chassis, steering posts, lightweight outdrives, etc. that’s something you can do as funds become available.
MODIFIED ARMS – The arms will be a modified version of the standard RC8 arms. We did this to get the parts out to you, the customer, sooner. We’ve been running the modified arms for 6 months with no additional breakage concerns, so it should be strong enough for everyone. Yea, it’s not the most glamorous solution, but the parts will be machined in house on our CNC machine for precision. I believe the plan is to mold a new a-arm with the in-arm shock geometry, but don’t quote me on that.
IN ARM SHOCK HANDLING – The general feeling of the new shock tower and arm package is that the car is more forgiving to drive, especially in rougher conditions. The RC8 has always had good speed and an aggressive feel. We’ve taken a bit of the edginess of the car out and replaced it with a more forgiving feel. This should translate to faster overall times in longer runs, especially for the average driver.
LOW B PLATE – This lowers the front roll center. With the geometry changes to the towers, we were able to lower the front roll center which makes the car land more forgiving and reduces flipping on high grip situations. It also allows us to run more kick-up in the a-arm. To give you an idea, with the low b plate and 3 dot down, this gives the same amount of kick up as the standard b plate and 2 dot up. We are currently running 2 dot up and the low b plate, so another 3 degrees of kick-up in the a-arm.
BLACK ALUMINUM TOWERS VS CARBON TOWERS – As mentioned in the video I did for Neobuggy (http://vimeo.com/22796185), the geometry of the two towers is identical. We have found that more droop made the black towers even better. The carbon towers have the extra droop built in. This allows us to use the standard shock eyelet. We are testing both options.
KYOSHO LIGHT BLUE SPRINGS – We have been running these in conjunction with the carbon test towers. Since the towers have more droop accounted for, the overall shock length is shorter. The Kyosho springs are shorter than our current ones. With our springs, the standard 28-30 mm of ride height is not achievable. We have been using the 70 mm front and 84 mm rear length springs. The closest Associated springs in rate are silver/silver.
LOWERED WING MOD – I will see what we can do to get the instructions on how to modify the current wing mount to run it low. I’ve heard rumblings of an entire new wing mount, but nothing concrete.
CVAS BENDING – I personally turn my dual rate down 10% from full throw. This still gives the RC8 more steering throw than 99% of cars on the market and really helps save front dog bones.
RED SIDEWINDER FUEL @ NEO2011 – Someone nailed it, the Strike 30% fuel wasn’t available in England, so the Sidewinder drivers used the 30% World Blend at the Neo2011 event. Still got killer run time with the Reedy engine and a 6mm restrictor.
GREMLINS OF THE RC8 – This one is pretty funny. Like all cars, the RC8B does have a few hiccups, but if you know to look for them the car can be really reliable and fun to drive.
1) The stock fuel line has had some weird failures. I recommend Dubro.
2) For the most part, the fuel tank issues are resolved. It only took 3 years, but they seem reliable 49 out of 50 times.
3) The front caster block assembly may require some hand fitting for free steering. Be sure to line up the “triangle inserts” properly in the spindle and use red loctite to secure the screws.
4) We have changed to a clear diff o-ring. If your kit doesn’t have these, use them and you’ll be much happier with your diff seal.
5) We’ve seen some flywheel pins come out. If you have the means to remove the pins and re-insert them with red loctite, you shouldn’t have any failures.
6) The steering rod ends have been a strange part since day 1. My recommendation is to boil them for 10 minutes. This will help strengthen them. Also, try to change them every 2 hours of running or so.
7) The shock bushings wear out quite quickly.
Those are the main things I can think of. As you can see, they are pretty minor in comparison to other vehicles that eat servos, or clutches or major plastic parts.
Like I said to start, sorry I haven’t been on here that much, but we do have some great team representatives out there to assist all the customers. If you’re in a major pocket of racing and don’t have a Team Associated representative, let me know. We strive to support our customers and racers at the local level with quality representatives with the knowledge of the entire team. If you do have a team driver at your local track and are considering the RC8 or the updates, ask if you can drive their car for a few laps. Most guys are more than willing to let someone wheel their car for a few laps. Until next time…
UPDATE KIT – You guys all know what comes in the update kit. We chose those parts since the make the most significant improvements to the current car. If you choose to add the chassis, steering posts, lightweight outdrives, etc. that’s something you can do as funds become available.
MODIFIED ARMS – The arms will be a modified version of the standard RC8 arms. We did this to get the parts out to you, the customer, sooner. We’ve been running the modified arms for 6 months with no additional breakage concerns, so it should be strong enough for everyone. Yea, it’s not the most glamorous solution, but the parts will be machined in house on our CNC machine for precision. I believe the plan is to mold a new a-arm with the in-arm shock geometry, but don’t quote me on that.
IN ARM SHOCK HANDLING – The general feeling of the new shock tower and arm package is that the car is more forgiving to drive, especially in rougher conditions. The RC8 has always had good speed and an aggressive feel. We’ve taken a bit of the edginess of the car out and replaced it with a more forgiving feel. This should translate to faster overall times in longer runs, especially for the average driver.
LOW B PLATE – This lowers the front roll center. With the geometry changes to the towers, we were able to lower the front roll center which makes the car land more forgiving and reduces flipping on high grip situations. It also allows us to run more kick-up in the a-arm. To give you an idea, with the low b plate and 3 dot down, this gives the same amount of kick up as the standard b plate and 2 dot up. We are currently running 2 dot up and the low b plate, so another 3 degrees of kick-up in the a-arm.
BLACK ALUMINUM TOWERS VS CARBON TOWERS – As mentioned in the video I did for Neobuggy (http://vimeo.com/22796185), the geometry of the two towers is identical. We have found that more droop made the black towers even better. The carbon towers have the extra droop built in. This allows us to use the standard shock eyelet. We are testing both options.
KYOSHO LIGHT BLUE SPRINGS – We have been running these in conjunction with the carbon test towers. Since the towers have more droop accounted for, the overall shock length is shorter. The Kyosho springs are shorter than our current ones. With our springs, the standard 28-30 mm of ride height is not achievable. We have been using the 70 mm front and 84 mm rear length springs. The closest Associated springs in rate are silver/silver.
LOWERED WING MOD – I will see what we can do to get the instructions on how to modify the current wing mount to run it low. I’ve heard rumblings of an entire new wing mount, but nothing concrete.
CVAS BENDING – I personally turn my dual rate down 10% from full throw. This still gives the RC8 more steering throw than 99% of cars on the market and really helps save front dog bones.
RED SIDEWINDER FUEL @ NEO2011 – Someone nailed it, the Strike 30% fuel wasn’t available in England, so the Sidewinder drivers used the 30% World Blend at the Neo2011 event. Still got killer run time with the Reedy engine and a 6mm restrictor.
GREMLINS OF THE RC8 – This one is pretty funny. Like all cars, the RC8B does have a few hiccups, but if you know to look for them the car can be really reliable and fun to drive.
1) The stock fuel line has had some weird failures. I recommend Dubro.
2) For the most part, the fuel tank issues are resolved. It only took 3 years, but they seem reliable 49 out of 50 times.
3) The front caster block assembly may require some hand fitting for free steering. Be sure to line up the “triangle inserts” properly in the spindle and use red loctite to secure the screws.
4) We have changed to a clear diff o-ring. If your kit doesn’t have these, use them and you’ll be much happier with your diff seal.
5) We’ve seen some flywheel pins come out. If you have the means to remove the pins and re-insert them with red loctite, you shouldn’t have any failures.
6) The steering rod ends have been a strange part since day 1. My recommendation is to boil them for 10 minutes. This will help strengthen them. Also, try to change them every 2 hours of running or so.
7) The shock bushings wear out quite quickly.
Those are the main things I can think of. As you can see, they are pretty minor in comparison to other vehicles that eat servos, or clutches or major plastic parts.
Like I said to start, sorry I haven’t been on here that much, but we do have some great team representatives out there to assist all the customers. If you’re in a major pocket of racing and don’t have a Team Associated representative, let me know. We strive to support our customers and racers at the local level with quality representatives with the knowledge of the entire team. If you do have a team driver at your local track and are considering the RC8 or the updates, ask if you can drive their car for a few laps. Most guys are more than willing to let someone wheel their car for a few laps. Until next time…
05-12-2011, 05:08 PM
#9763
I just imagine that is why they chose it.Maybe they will do RC8B2 or something with the next release.
05-12-2011, 09:08 PM
#9764
We are using 8 x 1.3 with 25-27.5 rear and 30-32.5 front. You might have to go up with hot weather but a 5 weight difference front to back is ideal.
05-12-2011, 10:07 PM
#9765