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Old 12-28-2007, 02:47 PM
  #5806  
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same here......ive run my truck for at least 2 gallons and i got my truck used as well.....my cups never wear as bad as rezenclowd3 is describing.....U cant even get a race weekend outta the diffs ?..i find that hard to beleive.....i think something else is the matter....maby blown pinion bearing or something stupid i bet.....and the C6BB isnt exactly the Power House motor u think it is....so i doubt its an issue of tackyness and a "powerful" motor.
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Old 12-28-2007, 03:04 PM
  #5807  
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Haha, yes guys, I have VERY good throttle control, which I learned and was quite decent with in 2wd Stadium Truck.

I do get a race day out of my diffs, but at the end of most days, the cross pin area has probably worn about 1mm. This is for ANY diff, not just center. I have no binding anywhere else, like I have said many pages back, I am anal about maintenance. I guarantee nothing else is the matter with my car. Usually I replace all bearings before every race day, unless I am dog tired. I usually run about 1/2-3/4 of a gallon per race day, which really is quite a bit of wear and tear on all components.

Integra, the C6BB tuned right has a ton of power on tap. If you happen to land on all 4 wheels with a decent amount of throttle, the cross pin area takes most of the force if you don't happen to wheelspin upon landing.

XMS-I am not bashing the losi. I love mine, and honestly the diff "problem" doesnt worry me too much as I always catch the problem before its bad since its a full teardown after every race day.

Before every heat, I check the CB bearings and listen and feel for anything that may possibly be wrong. I really don't understand why the diffs seem so soft.
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Old 12-28-2007, 03:19 PM
  #5808  
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Originally Posted by XMSRacing
The people that are having issues with their diffs... and be honest now.... Do you use that throttle/brake as an on/on switch? Your either on the 100% gas or on the brakes?
Too many people think they don't, but they really are. That's why they end up in the Z Main and end up having to rebuild their poorly built car after every race.
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Old 12-28-2007, 05:25 PM
  #5809  
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Originally Posted by Nay0k
Too many people think they don't, but they really are. That's why they end up in the Z Main and end up having to rebuild their poorly built car after every race.
Hehe, I know I don't though. I also used to race onroad, and am getting back into it and you must have throttle or else you will blow every corner wide open or take it too sharp and tag inside. What bugs me is the drivers that use the throttle like its hooked to a fast pendulum especially during cornering because they are trying to compensate for the onpower push and off power steering instead of hitting the corner at just the right speed with the weight transferred like it needs to be for that particular corner.
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Old 12-28-2007, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by sickboy
........hinge pins, clutch shoes, toe plates, shock shafts and motor mounts. It also does not come with the option shock springs and sway bars.
Or the great manual with the tuning aid in the back. IN FACT, THE RTR DOESN'T EVEN HAVE A MANUAL. JUST A FRIKKIN' START UP GUIDE. But, yes you guys have most of the major differences pinned down. I still look every now and then for a kit manual. My RTR became a full kit at the beginning of the summer 07' but I still don't have the manual. Ugh! But the 8-T manual filled in nicely, so why am I complaining. LOL.
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Old 12-29-2007, 12:24 AM
  #5811  
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Well...just bought a Ninja .21 BO1A to test against my C6BB in my Losi. What fun. Soon it will be time to retire the Losi and change brands just for kicks, but that will be sad day.

Anyone know how well the Bullit msr1005 pipe fares as far as durability?
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Old 12-29-2007, 01:06 PM
  #5812  
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Originally Posted by rezenclowd3
Well...just bought a Ninja .21 BO1A to test against my C6BB in my Losi. What fun. Soon it will be time to retire the Losi and change brands just for kicks, but that will be sad day.

Anyone know how well the Bullit msr1005 pipe fares as far as durability?

They are pretty strong (stronger then the nova pipes), but not like the JP pipes - they are the ticket on about any Nova motor though...they also work well on the Ninja
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Old 12-29-2007, 01:08 PM
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Ya...Im going to stay away from the JP pipes just because they are not the best choice for performance.

Now Im thinking...I have 2 motors..why not buy a truggy! The Losi 8T at Amain is $460, however Id much rather have the Xray XT8. Well see next time Im at my LHS in Covina...
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Old 12-29-2007, 01:14 PM
  #5814  
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Originally Posted by rezenclowd3
Ya...Im going to stay away from the JP pipes just because they are not the best choice for performance.

Now Im thinking...I have 2 motors..why not buy a truggy! The Losi 8T at Amain is $460, however Id much rather have the Xray XT8. Well see next time Im at my LHS in Covina...
definately the xt8 (I love mine) - it is kind of a mix of the losi (acceleration, jumping, light weight), and Mugen (it can be driven hard and slide around).
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Old 12-29-2007, 01:17 PM
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The XT8 looked good when I saw one run earlier this year. IDK, though, the Losi felt better to me. Might be cause the XT8 was brand new-not mine-didn't want to break it. LOL. And I'm used to the Losi vehicles. Plus I've only raced for one season, so I don't have room to talk.

I'll take some pics of my center diff in my 8-B tonight and see how it compares to the pics you posted Rezenclowd. My buggy has 13 gallons of race time on it, plus a one or two gallons when it was still an RTR. It might be ugly in there. LOL.
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Old 12-29-2007, 01:22 PM
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Air8, I haven't posted pics yet... Id never let my diffs get bad as the above pics however...
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Old 12-29-2007, 01:39 PM
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Oh...my bad. You're right. I guess I got mixed up. There is too much to read on here. LOL.

So then I'll take pics of my 13 gallon center diff and see how it compares to chuckinator.
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Old 12-29-2007, 05:19 PM
  #5818  
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sorry guys if you have been over this problem before but, can someone explain what limiter droop means on the setup sheet. Is it the shock length when the buggy is sitting on ground or when its lifted off ground? Thanks.
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Old 12-29-2007, 07:41 PM
  #5819  
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Limiter measure is with wheels off of ground and measure with calipers from center of screw where shock is attached to rear arms and on shock tower.
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Old 12-29-2007, 08:07 PM
  #5820  
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Juzza--if you want to read some good info on droop. Go back one page to 193. There is a good discussion there.
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