Losi 8ight building and setup
10-02-2006, 10:50 AM
#181
kyosho clutch does work right on
just use the shimm coming with the 8ight behind the flywheel, rest kyosho stuff 13 /14 T bells to..
mugen works and jammin too with the losi bell, just have to adjust with the shimming
just use the shimm coming with the 8ight behind the flywheel, rest kyosho stuff 13 /14 T bells to..
mugen works and jammin too with the losi bell, just have to adjust with the shimming
10-02-2006, 04:41 PM
#182
Tech Adept
can people post more pics of their 8ights please!
10-02-2006, 04:49 PM
#183
Her is mine Losi 8ight 
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10-02-2006, 05:51 PM
#184
Mine again 
10-02-2006, 05:52 PM
#185
Also wanted to tell everyone I'm going to try the fioroni clutch tommorow..I'll let you guys know how that goes
10-02-2006, 07:14 PM
#189
Just got mine done last night and broke the engine in. Gonna hit the track tomorow for some test runs.
Novarossi plus 21-5
9886 pipe, short header
Futaba 9351's throtle and steering
HT Batteries 1500mAh LIPO reciver pack and voltage regulator
Spektrum reciver
Proline wing
I'm also using a OFNA universal starter box, the narrow black one with twin motors. After you turn the starter wheel assmbly 90 degrees to fit an 1/8 scale it lines up nicely with the 8ight chassis. I shaved the wheel down a little and it works realy nice. It has a smaller diamater wheel than the boxes with the single big 12V motor, so it fits the small slot for the 8ights flywheel better.
I also was a little leary of the clunk in the fuel tank being able to pick up the last bit of fuel. On the last tank of break in, I wasn't watching and ran it out of fuel. When I opened the lid all I saw was fumes! It got every last drop out of that tank. Just make sure the clunk flops around freely and it should work great.
Novarossi plus 21-5
9886 pipe, short header
Futaba 9351's throtle and steering
HT Batteries 1500mAh LIPO reciver pack and voltage regulator
Spektrum reciver
Proline wing
I'm also using a OFNA universal starter box, the narrow black one with twin motors. After you turn the starter wheel assmbly 90 degrees to fit an 1/8 scale it lines up nicely with the 8ight chassis. I shaved the wheel down a little and it works realy nice. It has a smaller diamater wheel than the boxes with the single big 12V motor, so it fits the small slot for the 8ights flywheel better.
I also was a little leary of the clunk in the fuel tank being able to pick up the last bit of fuel. On the last tank of break in, I wasn't watching and ran it out of fuel. When I opened the lid all I saw was fumes! It got every last drop out of that tank. Just make sure the clunk flops around freely and it should work great.
10-02-2006, 11:24 PM
#190
Here is mine:
10-03-2006, 03:53 AM
#191
rdeppen, Yes, I'm going to try the turbo slider ......hopefully it will work on the 8 .... I'm sure it will as long as the 8 clutch bell rides over it correctly....I'll keep ya posted
10-03-2006, 05:50 AM
#192
Has anyone ran this on a loose track yet? The ones I have seen can't seem to get the rear to settle down. Anyone else having that problem?
10-03-2006, 06:15 AM
#193
Yes most are. Some are saying the CVD's need to break in. I don't buy that one myself. A better theory would be the kit comes stock with a 14 tooth bell and an aggressive clutch setup. I'm leaning towards softening the punch with a different clutch spring setup and also going to a 13 tooth clutch. Should really help with wheelspin IMO
10-03-2006, 07:06 AM
#194
I think that it's more that nobody has developed a different setup yet. They all are using the Travis/Drake setup and there are plenty of things that can be changed about that setup to quiet down the rear end. While I don't buy the CVD thing I can see the diffs needing a few tanks to settle in. My seals are pretty tight and the 7k oil in the middle diff feels like 10k right now. Much heavier feel than the 7k I am running in my Mugen.
