Losi Truggy
10-20-2007, 08:48 PM
#736
Ok guys. Don't forget to put heat shrink on the front and rear CVDs. On the front keep clear of the fuel tank mount. On the rear stay clear of the radio box. I lost a CVD pin on my buggy one time. So I did this for the T before I had an engine in. These Losi cars are simple to work on so it's no problem.
Also I suggest investing in an aluminum steering servo horn. Those plastic inserts hate 8th scale racing. lol Keep us up to date on progress and try to read back through the pages. There is not too much BS. Mostly good info on this Truggy forum.
Also I suggest investing in an aluminum steering servo horn. Those plastic inserts hate 8th scale racing. lol Keep us up to date on progress and try to read back through the pages. There is not too much BS. Mostly good info on this Truggy forum.
10-20-2007, 09:06 PM
#737
thanks alot
thanks alot for takin the trouble to take photo and post it here.
i shall wait patiently. thanks again
i shall wait patiently. thanks again
Dam Hellsavage, did your diffs have grease or diff oil in them? On this thread there were a few that had center diff problems but I kind of thought they were isolated incidents.
Rossii-I will get a camera tonight and post pics. I get off work at 11:00 central US time.
1. The boss the screw threads into is what interferes with the battery. Extra foam would be as helpful as lexan. I don't have the lexan in my battery box. I use foam under the battery.
2. http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced..._description=1
This is the inner steering ball set to use for the captured rod ends. The non-threaded ball is the one to use. The threaded ball that is built with the truck is removed and the non-threaded is put in its place. Then a washer on top of the new ball, then a screw long enough to pass through down to the locknut on the bottom of the steering spindle.
3. I used the King Headz cover. This isn't necessary though. When I did the steering mod on my buggy, once in a while the front inner hinge pin cover would break, allowing the hinge pin to slide backwards. This is only needed to further bulletproof the truck.
4. http://kingheadz.com/ Here is pics of the inner front cover and extended chassis braces. I buy them from Amainhobbies.com
Rossii-I will get a camera tonight and post pics. I get off work at 11:00 central US time.
1. The boss the screw threads into is what interferes with the battery. Extra foam would be as helpful as lexan. I don't have the lexan in my battery box. I use foam under the battery.
2. http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced..._description=1
This is the inner steering ball set to use for the captured rod ends. The non-threaded ball is the one to use. The threaded ball that is built with the truck is removed and the non-threaded is put in its place. Then a washer on top of the new ball, then a screw long enough to pass through down to the locknut on the bottom of the steering spindle.
3. I used the King Headz cover. This isn't necessary though. When I did the steering mod on my buggy, once in a while the front inner hinge pin cover would break, allowing the hinge pin to slide backwards. This is only needed to further bulletproof the truck.
4. http://kingheadz.com/ Here is pics of the inner front cover and extended chassis braces. I buy them from Amainhobbies.com
10-21-2007, 01:25 AM
#739
Can i get like 10 to 15 random pic's of your car then???? im going to be bored for the next 2 week's...so i got time!!hahaha....
10-21-2007, 01:42 AM
#743
Call me Air, Im wide awake!
10-21-2007, 03:14 AM
#744
does the engine mount give sum rigidty to the chassis?
does the servo mount necessary to get as well?
10-21-2007, 06:39 AM
#746
Air - Thanks for the pics. Glad you got your camera straightened out.
You run on sand??
The extended KH motor mount seems to be the only way to go on the 8ightT. It definitly protects your Clutch bell and spur better from chassis flex.
As far as the hingepin holders go, I prefer the new Losi aftermarket ones with inserts. They did quite a good job and the milling is wonderful. All the adjustability you need and it is in one kit.
Tony - You can run regular offset rims but you should accompany them with 1/2 Losi extenders to maintain the same track width. Proline also makes a 1/2 inch offset rim if you are interested. I use the Ofna 1/2" offsets myself.
FYI... The new Proline tires are comming out that fit the Losi rim. They are also releasing their own version of a large diameter rim.
Disadvantage??? I don't know. Options available?? Hell yeah!
TEX
You run on sand??
The extended KH motor mount seems to be the only way to go on the 8ightT. It definitly protects your Clutch bell and spur better from chassis flex.
As far as the hingepin holders go, I prefer the new Losi aftermarket ones with inserts. They did quite a good job and the milling is wonderful. All the adjustability you need and it is in one kit.
Tony - You can run regular offset rims but you should accompany them with 1/2 Losi extenders to maintain the same track width. Proline also makes a 1/2 inch offset rim if you are interested. I use the Ofna 1/2" offsets myself.
FYI... The new Proline tires are comming out that fit the Losi rim. They are also releasing their own version of a large diameter rim.
Disadvantage??? I don't know. Options available?? Hell yeah!
TEX
10-21-2007, 07:24 AM
#747
ok thanks tex, One other question, the losi wheels and tires make the truck look to wide to me, seems like it may be lazy compared to the proline standard wheels. One more thing isnt the flywheel suppose to be blue? The one on mine is silver? my truggy is used so I havent took it apart yet.
10-21-2007, 08:28 AM
#748
ok thanks tex, One other question, the losi wheels and tires make the truck look to wide to me, seems like it may be lazy compared to the proline standard wheels. One more thing isnt the flywheel suppose to be blue? The one on mine is silver? my truggy is used so I havent took it apart yet.
I've never tried my truck without the Losi wheels yet. The Losi rims and New Proline LPR wheels are a larger diameter than the standard sized wheels. Therefore the steering ends up more reactive. Also they are a 1/2" offset.
The standard sized wheels can be used no problem. Some people perfer them for a bumpy track. The taller sidewall absorbs more of the bumps. The tracks I've run on aren't bumpy enough to justify trying the standard sized wheels/tires.
10-21-2007, 08:35 AM
#749
You run on sand??
No sand. Unless I am playing around at my house for some reason. Usually to show a new friend how fun RC is. My yard is hard packed sand with grass over most of it--the wind doesn't blow it around very much.
We run on dirt. Each track we go to has a different type. The home track does have some sand mixed with the soil, but it packs up so nice when it gets rebuilt.
Indaway--my mentor, he redid the track for our Innagural Nitro Fall Classic a few weeks ago and the track couldn't have been better. Started off with moist loose soil and ended up hardpacked-starting to blue by the end of the day. It was awesome.
10-21-2007, 08:39 AM
#750
An aluminum or carbon fiber is not necessary. Half the people will tell you to get it and the other half will say no. I'll leave that up to you. This is why setting the End Point Adjustments is important. As long as your servos are set correctly, linkages correct, clearanced off the chassis you should not have a problem.