128LikesTekno NB48 2.0
09-10-2019, 04:53 PM - Wikipost
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All I can say is that we're working as fast as we can to get the car out as soon as we can.
10-05-2019, 05:06 PM
#92
How many shims are y’all having to use on the outside of the clutch bell ?
Manual is showing one after the clutch nut and one on the end of the clutch bell, I’ve done 4 on the end of the bell and still have more play with the bell and bearing on outside of the clutch bell than I think I should, anyone else having this ?
Manual is showing one after the clutch nut and one on the end of the clutch bell, I’ve done 4 on the end of the bell and still have more play with the bell and bearing on outside of the clutch bell than I think I should, anyone else having this ?
10-06-2019, 11:11 AM
#93
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Clutch Shimming
How many shims are y’all having to use on the outside of the clutch bell ?
Manual is showing one after the clutch nut and one on the end of the clutch bell, I’ve done 4 on the end of the bell and still have more play with the bell and bearing on outside of the clutch bell than I think I should, anyone else having this ?
Manual is showing one after the clutch nut and one on the end of the clutch bell, I’ve done 4 on the end of the bell and still have more play with the bell and bearing on outside of the clutch bell than I think I should, anyone else having this ?
The amount of shims you will need to use varies for every engine. Sometimes you don't need any at all and sometimes you need quite a few. I've seen instances where you need to use small 3x5 shims to effectively extend the crankshaft as well. My recommendation when you need to use as many shims as you mentioned is to not use the hat washer included with the clutch and instead use a single TKR1221 (3x8mm washer) and either a TKR1524 (12mm cap head screw) or a TKR1522 (8mm cap head screw) to secure the clutch bell. Personally, I prefer to use a flat washer and cap screw as they use a 2.5mm hex driver instead of the 2.0 for the flathead screw and therefore less likely to strip out.
Hope this helps and let us know if you need any more help with this or anything else for your new buggy 👍
10-06-2019, 11:47 AM
#94
Hello Shady3275,
The amount of shims you will need to use varies for every engine. Sometimes you don't need any at all and sometimes you need quite a few. I've seen instances where you need to use small 3x5 shims to effectively extend the crankshaft as well. My recommendation when you need to use as many shims as you mentioned is to not use the hat washer included with the clutch and instead use a single TKR1221 (3x8mm washer) and either a TKR1524 (12mm cap head screw) or a TKR1522 (8mm cap head screw) to secure the clutch bell. Personally, I prefer to use a flat washer and cap screw as they use a 2.5mm hex driver instead of the 2.0 for the flathead screw and therefore less likely to strip out.
Hope this helps and let us know if you need any more help with this or anything else for your new buggy 👍
The amount of shims you will need to use varies for every engine. Sometimes you don't need any at all and sometimes you need quite a few. I've seen instances where you need to use small 3x5 shims to effectively extend the crankshaft as well. My recommendation when you need to use as many shims as you mentioned is to not use the hat washer included with the clutch and instead use a single TKR1221 (3x8mm washer) and either a TKR1524 (12mm cap head screw) or a TKR1522 (8mm cap head screw) to secure the clutch bell. Personally, I prefer to use a flat washer and cap screw as they use a 2.5mm hex driver instead of the 2.0 for the flathead screw and therefore less likely to strip out.
Hope this helps and let us know if you need any more help with this or anything else for your new buggy 👍
Thank you for the advice. Thought sounds to be a better option, because I have had trouble in the past with the 2.0 flathead screws coming close to striping out. I think the 2.5 cap screw will work better.
And the TKR1221 washers that you are referencing are the washers used on previous kits under servo screws and steering ball studs correct ?
10-07-2019, 01:35 AM
#95
Tech Initiate
About the EB, we all can't wait, but, imo, i prefer to wait a little more and have a well-finished product than a "draft".
The NB48 2.0 seems to be a awesome car, it's the most important for now. Firsts results are very well !!
I'm curious about the active toe!
What is the firsts feedbacks about strenght and reliability of the car?
The NB48 2.0 seems to be a awesome car, it's the most important for now. Firsts results are very well !!
I'm curious about the active toe!
What is the firsts feedbacks about strenght and reliability of the car?
10-07-2019, 02:15 PM
#97
How many shims are y’all having to use on the outside of the clutch bell ?
Manual is showing one after the clutch nut and one on the end of the clutch bell, I’ve done 4 on the end of the bell and still have more play with the bell and bearing on outside of the clutch bell than I think I should, anyone else having this ?
Manual is showing one after the clutch nut and one on the end of the clutch bell, I’ve done 4 on the end of the bell and still have more play with the bell and bearing on outside of the clutch bell than I think I should, anyone else having this ?
I like the suggestion posted and I will give it a try.
10-08-2019, 02:33 PM
#99
I'm a big fan of these Clutch bell Screws from J&T: https://jtbearingco.com/accessories/...h-bell-screw-1
You can buy a bag of em here https://www.mcmaster.com/91287a014 (same thing as I understand).
10-08-2019, 04:43 PM
#100
Limited units of the new car available on the Tekno product page, buy it and build it. It's awesome!!! Along with all the obvious headline changes there's a lot of other not highlighted changes made that shows how much thought went into the car. Once you build it you'll agree.
Also, Tebo put up a few setups for the 2.0 on his JTP page today.
Tekno RC
JTP
Also, Tebo put up a few setups for the 2.0 on his JTP page today.
Tekno RC
JTP
10-09-2019, 01:34 PM
#101
Its definitely not an exact science. Lots of factors at play (in terms of tolerances of the crank, collet, flywheel, bearings etc. Just have plenty of shims on deck and shim accordingly. You'll need a few spares around as you rebuild the clutch etc.
I'm a big fan of these Clutch bell Screws from J&T: https://jtbearingco.com/accessories/...h-bell-screw-1
You can buy a bag of em here https://www.mcmaster.com/91287a014 (same thing as I understand).
I'm a big fan of these Clutch bell Screws from J&T: https://jtbearingco.com/accessories/...h-bell-screw-1
You can buy a bag of em here https://www.mcmaster.com/91287a014 (same thing as I understand).
10-09-2019, 08:13 PM
#102
Did anyone else see the shock oil and diff fluid package for the NB48 2.0 by PT racing ? It was up on their website for about a week. Came with 8 bottles of shock fluid(4oz) and 8 bottles of diff fluid for $89.
Seemed like a really good deal, was gonna buy one but now it’s no longer showing. Did anyone else run across this ?
I have never used their products but have heard they are good quality oils.
Seemed like a really good deal, was gonna buy one but now it’s no longer showing. Did anyone else run across this ?
I have never used their products but have heard they are good quality oils.
10-09-2019, 11:18 PM
#103
I didn’t see that deal on the oils, wow sweet deal right there! I’ve been running PT oils good stuff. I ordered mine from Fierce RC, Pete has a good stock of shock and diff oils.
10-10-2019, 09:37 AM
#104
I remember a black friday deal they had at one point where PT Racing basically matches AEs price special at the time oz to oz. I think AE had like a $2.50 oil price going on or something like that. Got me into PT racing that way and have been happy with there shock oils, still run AE for diffs due to higher weight options.
10-10-2019, 10:02 AM
#105
It you google PT racing and NB48 2.0. It finds where it was on there website. But nothing is there. Hopefully they will bring it back