MIP Bypass1 pistons for 1/8th scale
MIP released their Bypass1 pistons a while ago for Mugen and Associated, but since a few weeks they are also available for other brands.
I'm interested in them, but they are pretty expensive over here, so I'd like to hear some reviews before I buy a set. Please let us know how they changed the car for you. Thanks! |
If you don’t mind, I’d like to piggy back on this thread. I haven’t seen another one started for these. I also had a question. Are you supposed to build these new Bypass pistons using emulsion style, vented or not? Or maybe it doesn’t matter? Just curious as to what the intended shock build is for these new Bypass shock systems. Thanks all. |
Originally Posted by xlrsd
(Post 15488696)
If you don’t mind, I’d like to piggy back on this thread. I haven’t seen another one started for these. I also had a question. Are you supposed to build these new Bypass pistons using emulsion style, vented or not? Or maybe it doesn’t matter? Just curious as to what the intended shock build is for these new Bypass shock systems. Thanks all. So basically you tune the compression ratio as you used to with shock oils and with the valves, you can speed up the rebound. This should give you a more responsive car with more grip in theory, but that's just theory. I wonder what the experiences are of people that tried them in their cars. |
Originally Posted by morgoth
(Post 15488720)
It doesn't matter what style of shocks you use. They are normal pistons, but when the are moving out (rebound) the valve opens and it allows for faster rebound.
So basically you tune the compression ratio as you used to with shock oils and with the valves, you can speed up the rebound. This should give you a more responsive car with more grip in theory, but that's just theory. I wonder what the experiences are of people that tried them in their cars. |
I did start this post back in March https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-o...s-pistons.html I’ve been using the Bypass pistons in my HB D819 and have, along with the Performa bladders, noticed a huge improvement when racing. I find I’m able to push the buggy harder when cornering and it soaks up the ruts and bumps around the tracks I race at. |
That’s what I’m saying! You started that thread back in March, and NO ONE else posted on it. Same with this one. Crickets. I guess no one runs these really, or have an opinion, or both. Lol |
I'm running these on a large outdoor very rutted track, and have noticed an increase of consistency in my lap times, and increased traction. They also help the car spring off the jumps a bit better. I think people are running them, but not wanting to expose the edge they give them. lol. I ran them on a smooth track, at a bigger race, and actually gained too much traction. I had to run tires that didnt hook up as well to free the car up in corners. Locally, I've TQ'd, and lapped the field with the setup posted below, results do matter to me. Cheers!
Front: 6 holes, (drilled out to 1.35), running BLUE washers @ 90+deg outside air, Track temp 102+deg, 600 CST Hudy oil Rear: 6 holes, (drilled out to 1.35), running GREEN washers @ 90+deg outside air, Track temp 102+deg, 500 CST Hudy oil |
Originally Posted by TheWorstDriver
(Post 15489210)
I'm running these on a large outdoor very rutted track, and have noticed an increase of consistency in my lap times, and increased traction. They also help the car spring off the jumps a bit better. I think people are running them, but not wanting to expose the edge they give them. lol. I ran them on a smooth track, at a bigger race, and actually gained too much traction. I had to run tires that didnt hook up as well to free the car up in corners. Locally, I've TQ'd, and lapped the field with the setup posted below, results do matter to me. Cheers!
Front: 6 holes, (drilled out to 1.35), running BLUE washers @ 90+deg outside air, Track temp 102+deg, 600 CST Hudy oil Rear: 6 holes, (drilled out to 1.35), running GREEN washers @ 90+deg outside air, Track temp 102+deg, 500 CST Hudy oil |
Drake and Maifield have them listed on their setup sheets. |
It looks like most I’ve seen listed on pro setup sheets, when they are, are using emulsion. |
I have a set that I won in their giveaway. I would like to try them out in my T3 but don’t know which bladder to start out with. |
These sound similar to the VRP pistons. I wonder how they compare in practice.
|
Originally Posted by TheWorstDriver
(Post 15489210)
I ran them on a smooth track, at a bigger race, and actually gained too much traction.
We have a lot of high speed tracks with good grip or multisurface tracks (with super high grip astro in it). I think the slower rebound of the stock pistons calm down the car and make it easier to drive in these conditions. While the MIP pistons are probably good on low traction or blown out tracks. |
So when guys installs these on their kits, what is a good start point? Do you keep the same weights of oil that you were running for track conditions in non-Bypass pistons? Is there a “neutral” oil weight to start with for Bypass pistons? And also with the different thickness gaskets, is there something you are supposed to START with so you don’t throw your shock set up so far out of wack changing from non-Bypass, to Bypass? |
Originally Posted by xlrsd
(Post 15490027)
So when guys installs these on their kits, what is a good start point? Do you keep the same weights of oil that you were running for track conditions in non-Bypass pistons? Is there a “neutral” oil weight to start with for Bypass pistons? And also with the different thickness gaskets, is there something you are supposed to START with so you don’t throw your shock set up so far out of wack changing from non-Bypass, to Bypass? And blue in the front/green in the rear if it's really blown out or loose. |
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