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Old 02-11-2019, 05:48 PM
  #196  
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Originally Posted by shark2288
why are you guys compressing the springs?
Kanai gave a guidance that the springs need to be compressed a few times to reduce overall length 2-3mm. Basically squash them a few times till reduction is achieved (permanent deformation). If you go too far then you're winding down the collars because you've permanently deformed the spring past 2-3mm. I wouldn't compress them because of the possible result of overdoing but it's safer than trying to stretch them back. I question the performance gain - Boots may notice but....
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Old 02-11-2019, 05:53 PM
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I would think it would be better to let them break in naturally by just driving the car
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Old 02-11-2019, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Niz55
I am looking for a durable buggy and parts that are fairly good price. My budget is $700 for the kit.

Any recommendations?
In the mp10 thread I think you will get a lot of mp10 recommendations. Having said that the kyosho parts wear better than the rest and kyosho plastic arms do not bow over time like the others so handling stays more consistent over the life of the car. You also get the most consistent tuning fuel tank although no clunk. The kyosho drive train is also extremely free spinning once it wears in and it has the original high capacity diffs. Being a c hub front end it will carve corners smoother with more feel than a pillow ball car.
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Old 02-11-2019, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by shark2288
I would think it would be better to let them break in naturally by just driving the car
That’s what I use to do prior to my last 2 builds. I think I’ll go back to doing that
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Old 02-11-2019, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TheWorstDriver
Is that the new 3 port FX 302 motor? If so, just wondering what you think of it so far?
It’s great so far, I will start leaning on it more this weekend. I had it broke in on EBIS but still ran it a bit rich for the first day. No flameouts and good low and top end.
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Old 02-11-2019, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by windellmc


In the mp10 thread I think you will get a lot of mp10 recommendations. Having said that the kyosho parts wear better than the rest and kyosho plastic arms do not bow over time like the others so handling stays more consistent over the life of the car. You also get the most consistent tuning fuel tank although no clunk. The kyosho drive train is also extremely free spinning once it wears in and it has the original high capacity diffs. Being a c hub front end it will carve corners smoother with more feel than a pillow ball car.
These people asking what they should by is driving me nuts. Asking on a Kyosho Mp10 forum if the car is good is like asking a Chevy salesman if they should buy a Chevy truck. Of course they are going to tell you yes. It’s really easy, go to your local track and find out what people are running and then buy that buggy. Buying a new 8ightX or Mp10 will not make you magically faster and lead to you winning races. How do I know this, it’s easy all the fast guys at my track run the same buggy and very rarely switch. Because they know that buy sticking with the same buggy they can make small changes and improve little by little. Going out and buying some new buggy will generally not make you faster, unless your a pro in which case you might get faster. Of course if you were a pro you would probably not be asking people on some random forum what the pros and cons are of a kit. You actually be out testing it at your local track. One thing I can promise you is that It will lead to less money in your account. Just buy a buggy, build it and start racing. It’s not like your buying a house with a 30 year mortgage. Seriously people stop overthinking.
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Old 02-11-2019, 07:24 PM
  #202  
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For what it’s worth, looking back I may have not compressed the fronts but would still compress the rears. I think you’d have far too much ride height in the rear otherwise. Will they break in? Probably but with Kanai’s method our ride height has been consistent from the start. Good luck.
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Old 02-12-2019, 06:22 AM
  #203  
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Originally Posted by Niz55
What do you guys recommend. The mp10 or 8ight-x?
I can only compare the X to the tki4 Anniversary; I think the answer to this question is it depends on how good your setup skills are and are you patient... The X is a really good driving car, but for me it requires a lot of setup work to get it to where it is somewhat neutral, then start dialing some of the agility back in. The box setup for me was just not drive-able and had me doubting the car right off the bat. Some help and a lot of setup work got the car to where I like it. The tki4 (and by some margin I would expect the 10 to be) is just good right out of the box; really, really good right away with the stock setup. So, I would say there is less frustration at the beginning with the tki4. That said, I am back to my K car and am getting ready to sell the X; not that the K car drives that much better, but because I no kidding have enough parts for the tki to rebuild it around 3 times in its entirety. I will say the the X is A LOT easier to work on to change stuff/rebuild than the Kyosho, although I'm not sure about the 10 as I don't have it yet. That said, the X is faster to tinker with and I feel that I could easily change diffs for a main even in a small program race day without undue stress. If your LHS stocks TLR parts, I would recommend the X - my part situation negates this positive, hence my choice.
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Old 02-14-2019, 07:42 AM
  #204  
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I still think the TKI4 A spec is better than mp10.
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Old 02-14-2019, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Niz55
I still think the TKI4 A spec is better than mp10.
Why? Have you driven an mp10?
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Old 02-14-2019, 10:02 AM
  #206  
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Originally Posted by windellmc


Why? Have you driven an mp10?
Apparently, no one has compared the TKI4 to the MP10 yet.
So far, I only saw one build blog from Japan that compares the MP10 parts from the TKI4.
Pretty substantial changes, but still yet to run the car.
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Old 02-14-2019, 11:53 AM
  #207  
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Originally Posted by Niz55
I still think the TKI4 A spec is better than mp10.
I think someone is trolling.
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Old 02-14-2019, 12:09 PM
  #208  
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Yes I have driven both and both feel great. Tki4 also comes with the rear aluminum hubs and you can get it for $565 shipped for the A spec anniversary edition built and tuned by the people that do this everyday.
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Old 02-14-2019, 12:15 PM
  #209  
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Yes the car has suspension changes like the steering and other minor stuff but I did not even noticed it at all while I was driving it in socal at kyosho headquarters.

Price and being pre build and tuned by the founder and also being an anniversary edition makes it more special.
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Old 02-14-2019, 12:45 PM
  #210  
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Originally Posted by Niz55
Yes the car has suspension changes like the steering and other minor stuff but I did not even noticed it at all while I was driving it in socal at kyosho headquarters.

Price and being pre build and tuned by the founder and also being an anniversary edition makes it more special.

And you want this kit to replace an RTR Losi, if/when you decide to buy, you plan to only bash around the backyard on the weekend - no interest in racing? I’m cool with that, but coming on the forum asking which is better without giving the full picture is misleading. There’s plenty of other threads asking which “opinion” is best.

Last edited by Matty A; 02-14-2019 at 01:04 PM.
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