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Kyosho MP10 Thread

Old 03-21-2020, 08:26 PM
  #616  
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if your going to spin a tire to check the drivetrain hold the other tire on that end still. sounds like your pinion and ring gear mesh is bad and one of the differentials is backwards or upside down inside the diff case. Hold the one tire and spin the other forward on either the front or back, the center gear should be spinning counter clockwise. if it spins the right way that end of the car is fine and you must flip the other end in the case, if it spins the center clockwise thats your backwards gear
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Old 03-21-2020, 11:09 PM
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The first step that I would recommend would be to loosen the 4 screws on the bottom of the chassis that mount the engine mount blocks to the engine mount plates and scoot the engine to the left side of the car so that the clutch bell isn’t touching the spur gear. This will allow you to roll the wheels and see which way the other end rolls. If the driveline still feels like it’s not rolling smooth you probably have the brakes too tight. Setting up the brake and throttle linkage is a bit tricky to start and very important. When adjusting the clutch bell to spur mesh it’s important to have a very small amount of play, as in as little bit as you can get and still be able to see it move. Where are you located? Is there any chance of getting some assistance with the fine tuning of the linkage and radio etc? I also noticed that the front lower shocks are mounted to the front of the arm. They should go in the hole in the arm. If you are willing to send me a phone number I’d be happy to text some pictures back and forth. It’s a bit easier than using this site for pictures. I’ll pm you my cell number. I’m in Northern California for time reference.
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Old 03-26-2020, 12:02 PM
  #618  
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Default ďMust havesĒ for the new kit

Hey everyone,

Iím a new member as of today and looking for some pointers from you all on what is recommended to add to the kit right off the bat.
I just got back into RC after a 12 year ďbreakĒ, raising a family and such.
My old MBX5 is still running strong but I want to build a new kit and have decided to go Kyosho this time and pass the Mugen down to my son.
IĒm getting ready to order the kit in the next few days and want to upgrade a few things right away.
I want to add the Kyosho aluminum steering servo horn, Iíve noticed there is an MP10 specific horn (18.5mm) and a ď longĒ horn. It looks like from most of the pics Iíve seen people are running the long horn? Any reason why?
the motor Iíve decided on is the Reds R5R combo with pipe, was going to go with the trusty ole Nova P5 but want to try something new. Does anyone with this engine have a plug recommendation and also fuel? (Not brand just nitro/oil content).
Servos, Iím looking at the savox 2274sg for both steering and throttle/brake. Anyone have experience with these servoís?
We have a couple really nice 1/8 scale outdoor tracks where we live in central Florida that have the red clay. Dries out really fast in the sun and gets pretty slick at times, looking for a couple good tire recommendations.
Also going to pick up another starter box, looking at the Kyosho box but have seen some mixed reviews.
anything else you could recommend to throw in right away?
IĒd really appreciate feedback from you, I work a lot and have a family so I canít really commit a ton of time to research this stuff. Just looking for pointers from guys with hands-on experience.

Thanks!




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Old 03-26-2020, 12:59 PM
  #619  
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Originally Posted by RCDaddy2105 View Post
Hey everyone,

Iím a new member as of today and looking for some pointers from you all on what is recommended to add to the kit right off the bat.
I just got back into RC after a 12 year ďbreakĒ, raising a family and such.
My old MBX5 is still running strong but I want to build a new kit and have decided to go Kyosho this time and pass the Mugen down to my son.
IĒm getting ready to order the kit in the next few days and want to upgrade a few things right away.
I want to add the Kyosho aluminum steering servo horn, Iíve noticed there is an MP10 specific horn (18.5mm) and a ď longĒ horn. It looks like from most of the pics Iíve seen people are running the long horn? Any reason why?
the motor Iíve decided on is the Reds R5R combo with pipe, was going to go with the trusty ole Nova P5 but want to try something new. Does anyone with this engine have a plug recommendation and also fuel? (Not brand just nitro/oil content).
Servos, Iím looking at the savox 2274sg for both steering and throttle/brake. Anyone have experience with these servoís?
We have a couple really nice 1/8 scale outdoor tracks where we live in central Florida that have the red clay. Dries out really fast in the sun and gets pretty slick at times, looking for a couple good tire recommendations.
Also going to pick up another starter box, looking at the Kyosho box but have seen some mixed reviews.
anything else you could recommend to throw in right away?
IĒd really appreciate feedback from you, I work a lot and have a family so I canít really commit a ton of time to research this stuff. Just looking for pointers from guys with hands-on experience.

Thanks!
Hey man,
Welcome back to the hobby.
Most say the only thing you really need to add to the kit are the +4mm shock standoffs for the rear KYOIFW612 . Some will say to add the hard shock towers but I'm waiting to see if I bend the kit ones first lol.
I personally have the 18.5 horn and see plenty of these with the same. I would think guys probably use the long because they had them from previous Kyosho kits. Not sure if its a big difference but would think from a mathematical point of view the longer would create a larger arch taking away from quicker/snappier steering. Probably not a big enough difference to warrant purchasing the new one if you already have the older one.
As for tires I've always run Proline; I like buckshots and fugitive Lite for many different surface types and change compound depending on temps and grip of surface. If you're clay is high grip and not very dusty you might want to try Positron. If the surface is smooth and gets slick I would recommend Slidelocks.
Starter box I use the Protek Sure Start box and have no trouble starting even tight Novarossi engines and I'm not even running lipo in it yet. I'm still using two Nimh packs. They also have a box on ebay that is the same as the Ofna box but doesn't have Ofna name.
Hope this helps a bit.
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Old 03-26-2020, 03:49 PM
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Great! Thank you for the reply.
This is good information, I started out looking for the Proline Crimefighters only to see that it does'nt look like they're made anymore lol!
I've always ran the prolines in the past and will stick to your recomendations.
I did like the old Ofna starter boxes, tons of power and reliable but heavy!
I'll throw the shock standoffs into the order also.

thanks again.
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Old 03-27-2020, 04:38 AM
  #621  
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Originally Posted by GulfstreamIVCap View Post
Hey guys, quick video of the situation with my buggy. Any ideas if this is correct, or needs to be fixed?

https://share.icloud.com/photos/093S...U9150Z1fmIeL1w
check out the top brake adjusting rod, itís assembled wrong.
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Old 03-27-2020, 07:06 AM
  #622  
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I use the Savox 2274sg on all 3 Kyosho cars I have. It is great. No issues at all and my oldest one is 3 years old and has been through plenty of punishment. I also use the Kyosho starter box. It is well made and the small starter wheel is nice. Torque is no issue. Started my new Nova without even slowing down. I only have 2 complaints. One is you need to add holes if you want the rear of the car locked in. The other is the handle is really thin and not usable. Both can be fixed. I just got an MP10T and was surprised I didn't need to add tall feet on the box.
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Old 03-27-2020, 10:11 AM
  #623  
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Originally Posted by RCDaddy2105 View Post
Hey everyone,

I’m a new member as of today and looking for some pointers from you all on what is recommended to add to the kit right off the bat.
I just got back into RC after a 12 year “break”, raising a family and such.
My old MBX5 is still running strong but I want to build a new kit and have decided to go Kyosho this time and pass the Mugen down to my son.
I”m getting ready to order the kit in the next few days and want to upgrade a few things right away.
I want to add the Kyosho aluminum steering servo horn, I’ve noticed there is an MP10 specific horn (18.5mm) and a “ long” horn. It looks like from most of the pics I’ve seen people are running the long horn? Any reason why?
the motor I’ve decided on is the Reds R5R combo with pipe, was going to go with the trusty ole Nova P5 but want to try something new. Does anyone with this engine have a plug recommendation and also fuel? (Not brand just nitro/oil content).
Servos, I’m looking at the savox 2274sg for both steering and throttle/brake. Anyone have experience with these servo’s?
We have a couple really nice 1/8 scale outdoor tracks where we live in central Florida that have the red clay. Dries out really fast in the sun and gets pretty slick at times, looking for a couple good tire recommendations.
Also going to pick up another starter box, looking at the Kyosho box but have seen some mixed reviews.
anything else you could recommend to throw in right away?
I”d really appreciate feedback from you, I work a lot and have a family so I can’t really commit a ton of time to research this stuff. Just looking for pointers from guys with hands-on experience.

Thanks!
The 18.5mm horn is meant to give the steering a smoother, less twitchy feel. I have it in mine and like it. You can also turn your steering speed down slightly if your transmitter has that setting. Either way just make sure you get an aluminum horn. The only necessary upgrades in my opinion are aluminum front hubs and aluminum steering horn. As far as servos go, Savox 2274 isn't a bad servo but for $100 there are better options. Check out the MKS HBL550. Same price but better servo. As for the starter box, The blue dual motor OFNA box is still the best.
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Old 03-27-2020, 12:34 PM
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+1 on the aluminum front hub carriers and the aluminum horn, I have the original longer version and several cars with the 18.5. Idk that I believe that you can ‘feel’ a difference. The geometry should match better on the shorter horn. If you measure diagonally across the servo screw to where the steering arm attaches to the saver and from the center of the saver to where the steering arm attaches to the horn you want the measurements to be equal. This should get your left and right epa’s fairly close to the same number. I am also really liking the new red springs and I use the brass inserts in the front hub carriers to help reduce the play that develops. The plastic inserts are fine except that they are only sold with the carriers.

i used 2274’s for many years with great luck. On my last chassis(before Kyosho) I had issues with breaking the top plastic case where the screws hold the servo in. I have since switched to a rule of only aluminum top servos. I do believe that the issue was caused by the flexing of the radio tray and therefore the MP10 may not have the issue but better safe than sorry I’d say. There are some aluminum top servos at a similar price and many at a slightly higher price.

welcome back and good luck!
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Old 03-28-2020, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RCDaddy2105 View Post
Great! Thank you for the reply.
This is good information, I started out looking for the Proline Crimefighters only to see that it does'nt look like they're made anymore lol!
I've always ran the prolines in the past and will stick to your recomendations.
I did like the old Ofna starter boxes, tons of power and reliable but heavy!
I'll throw the shock standoffs into the order also.

thanks again.
The best thing to do is go to the track and find out what tires the fast guys are using. Buckshots and slidelocks are both good where I race but not sure about Florida. I disagree with the guys saying you need the aluminum caster blocks. The updated plastic ones are fine. The rear standoffs and aluminum servo horn are must haves. I would not mess with springs until you get some time on the car. The stock body is pretty thin. It is ok but it does tear and crack. Kyosho sells a thicker one. Buy some spare air filters and belray or maxima filter oil.

I have to go against your engine choice. Get an OS based engine. You will find it easier to tune and it will have more consistent throttle response. If you do go with Novarossi skip the P5 and go to one of the 4 port engines. They are smoother and will be easier to drive. The newer cars are lighter than the mbx 5 and donít need as much rip on the bottom end.
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Old 03-29-2020, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian C View Post
+1 on the aluminum front hub carriers and the aluminum horn, I have the original longer version and several cars with the 18.5. Idk that I believe that you can Ďfeelí a difference. The geometry should match better on the shorter horn. If you measure diagonally across the servo screw to where the steering arm attaches to the saver and from the center of the saver to where the steering arm attaches to the horn you want the measurements to be equal. This should get your left and right epaís fairly close to the same number. I am also really liking the new red springs and I use the brass inserts in the front hub carriers to help reduce the play that develops. The plastic inserts are fine except that they are only sold with the carriers.

i used 2274ís for many years with great luck. On my last chassis(before Kyosho) I had issues with breaking the top plastic case where the screws hold the servo in. I have since switched to a rule of only aluminum top servos. I do believe that the issue was caused by the flexing of the radio tray and therefore the MP10 may not have the issue but better safe than sorry Iíd say. There are some aluminum top servos at a similar price and many at a slightly higher price.

welcome back and good luck!
I agree that the plastic inserts are fine but they will develop slop over time. The Mp9 hub carriers are interchangeable with the Mp10. Part IF421-01 is the plastic insert only.
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Old 03-29-2020, 03:34 PM
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Thanks for the help there. We did not run a 9 so I was not familiar with that option. The website could use a little work with listing the parts that were on the 9 and also used on the 10 on the mp10 replacement and option parts pages.
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Old 03-30-2020, 06:45 PM
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Hi guys,
Getting back into rc racing after about 7 years. I will be ordering the MP10 once our lock down is over and we can order stuff again. My question is what servos are you guys running in your cars or what would you recommend me use?

Cheers.
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Old 03-30-2020, 07:23 PM
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i use the cb700 futaba servos in steering and the protek 170 series for the throttle/brake.. generally speaking over 300 oz of torque and .6 to 1.0 for speed.. metal case top and bottom to with stand the punishment. just my recommendations. buy once and generally you dont have any issues
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Old 03-31-2020, 05:50 AM
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The "K day" is coming guys!!

This friday April 3rd at 6:00pm local time - Italy - we will make VERY happy all the Kyosho lovers!😎

Don't miss the release, the countdown is underway.

#VISION
#MP10
#PreCut
#BittydesignEngineering


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