Hotbodies tessman buggy and truggy = D8MT? Need help with conversion.
 

Hi im new ish here seeing a healthy hotbodies thread i thought no better place to get help with my current project. I came to HB thinking they was all pretty much rhe same thing. Chassis holes atleast.

I brought an RC monster converted tessman D815T. Then i brought a Tessman D815 buggy.

My plan was to do the same thing tekno did to make the MT410. I thought ide mash two D8s for the same result. But now not so sure.

My main question right now is how come the D8 Rc monster mount wont install to the Tessman D815 buggy?

But it is a D8 kit. It has D8 etched onto it. Was fitted to the D815T. But this is what i have.

Here's a pic of the tessman buggy chassis and the rcm bl mount with D8T diff side peice. Seem to be wider than the buggy centre diff chassis holes.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...psqoiyj8l5.jpg

My best guess is that the Tessman d815 buggy centre bulkheads new design is just different to all before it. Hence RCM only listing a D8 conversion. Not seperate kits.

Heres a pic showing the D815 tessman centre diff raiser peice on the D815T tessman chassis.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...psrmcngavl.jpg

My plan right now is to just drill it but unsure of the best method. Enlarge all the holes alittle and try to make inserts to stop any shifting. Using a centre skid plate to countersink the longer screws too. Knife edge the skid all round minimise hang ups. I think it might work.

I haven't a clue what im doing with the diffs yet either i was forced to use the buggy rear diff in the D8T rear emd. Because the diff pinion for d8t uses grub screws but i needed a std diff cup type.

if i can sort the gearing at the end ill be happy to just build it for now. Then sort out the diffs as best i can. 3x buggy diffs mayb. I have 46 and 49t spurs i think.

This is as far as ive got so far. I thought the rear diff pinion would be the Wall. I can't believe the one peice i thought was 100% D8 lol is the wall. But hopefully get through it. This is the most adventurous ive been with a build. I usually just buy traxxas and upgrades. Part of me is screaming buy a used traxxas 1/8 lol. But this is what i want. Mayb stupid buying tessman specs? But thats all that was on offer cheap.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...psb1bkmhnr.jpg
http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...psicgkewzu.jpg

The diff mount holes in the chassis were changed after the D812, your D8 is older than that. RC Monster used to make a conversion for the D815 but I don't know if it is still available.

As per above, there were a myriad of changes going from the D812 to D815 which includes changing the width of the center diff mount to allow a smaller ~13T clutch bell to mesh with the center spur gear due to the new 43/13 gearing ratio, previously 43/10 with ~17T clutch bell. The D8T Tessman Edition is on the same generation as the D812 buggy.

You will find that the D8T TE, D812, E817, D817T & E817T uses 43/10 whilst the D815 and D817 uses the 43/13 gearing ratio.

:tire:

The D812 is older than the tessman D815s i thought.

Well i know it is lol cos the buggy has the D817 centre diff bulk head.

Do you mean the RCM mount i have is for the D812? But it fits the D815T perfect.

Its confusing lol. Could i just get a D812 chassis and bolt the D815T tessnan front and rear ends to the d812 chassis.

but then will i need the rear shaft again? Or use the cvds i have already. Centre two.

Thanks.

The D815T has the old bolt pattern that the D8-D812 buggies had. The D815 buggy has a different bolt pattern.

Hi again thanks i understand now about the different centre diff bolt pattern it really threw me. Expecting them to mate better than any.

But i found a D812 chassis and just finished making it the roller i wanted. Well nearly.

Its wider and shorter than a Mt410 i think 10cm wider with proline offset wheels or maub its hex to hex track width?

Its about the same wheelbase as my slash 4x4.

I only have the hpi trophie truggy wheels atm i have F11 rims but found out Mx38 arent sold as tires only. Im stuck here i wanted mx38. But hate pre mounts and have the rims. What to do. Std badlands. Or Tsl.

I need a body shell too but unsure which size is best ide imagine the 2.5 size bodies. But i cant find the raptor new style in 2.5 size.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...psjo462z96.jpg

Im proud of the front bumper i wanted to use the apache sc bumper but found i need to drill the holes into the carbon. But then found the std tower has recesses cut for the bumper mounts to sit inside.

i found $9 red integy front apache towers on ebay and sprayed with oven cleaner etc. I cut the ears off it and filed it down abit 5min. But would like it pro done when able.

A name plate idi badge lol. D8MT engraved or something plus filed down better angle 45° hopfully. Or i might just cut it down to just the screw holes and recesses i need. Deleting all the rest to show the carbon tower.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...psxhskwhg3.jpg
http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...psygpwz9wq.jpg
http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...psrjki4dpx.jpg

I lightly countersunk it from the rear to mount the bumper mounts behind the recceses being thin metal already i didn't dare fully sink them. Then i bored out the areas where the camber link screw head sits.

I found the HB VE8 uses a rear shaft with coupler. But then think i saw all older d812s used the shaft and coupler.

(Thats a down grade from 812 i think i hated the diff pinion cup CLIP. Lol)

Heres how it sits now after a good session on it. Im not getting the time i used to.

I would like to do chassis protection soon. Any recommendations?

I need to WP the rx box too. Does the rcm rx box use a plug or something? Theres a big hole at its bottom.

If i drilled the tower for the bumper holes how much stronger would we think it would be? Ide rather keep it as a bolt on/off mod but i think it could boost tower strength mayb.

Hi again ive got the D8T as a Shorty truggy now saves me getting a body or body mounts for now. I like the look though. The body came from another tessman d8t i got for spares.

im in two minds what to as one d8t is much better condition im tempted to use its drive line first and if it fails swap the newer parts on. But if it doesn't fail ill have like new parts waiting and waiting. But not look so fresh lol.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...psa1un1caf.jpg
http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...psndzfva9d.jpg

I have the hpi vorza rear Tbone bumper for the rear i like that it doesn't connect to the tower. With everything else fitted to it. I hope it looks smart with MT shell. Mayb in the spring now.

i think im just going to get the Mx38 pre mounts now. No other tire seems worth it when i know i want badland mx lol. Ill use fishing line or something.

Also solderd the elecs for it now.
http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...psrmj7msxl.jpg

But theres some things in the chassis to address first.

I dont want to run it without chassis skin protection either but not a problem.

The main thing though was rolling the front wheels forwards. Spun the rears backwards. I think i must have had the diff in backwards so just rebuilding it now. I serviced the diff whilst in there this time. But the old oil was clear still but the bearings wanted changing so all good. As long as all wheels go forwards once togeher.

This is how i had the rear diff, is it backwards? I thought i copied the other D8Ts rear end. But i hope it will be sorted. Mayb the front is backwards or both was mayb im thinking. But thought ide swap the rear first as its the one ive removed before.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...psfuupbart.jpg

Ok onto possible next step. The E817 uses links as a chassis brace. Messing around last night with links ive had for years i came up with this.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...psfetexeii.jpg

My fav idea is to mount an alloy or carbon mount on top of the C/D mount using the two holes already there.

Then drill one hole in the new plate and attach both links to that central peice. Acouple of spacers betweem diff mount and link mount to clear the spur gear by a good few mm.

For the rear rod end i can just drill a hole into the rear chassis brace mount. The front rod end can use the front chassis brace screw hole.

My question is would it be worth doing for strength increase.

i think i like the idea enough to do it regardless lol. Deanodise the red one.

Mayb shorten them to be two peices and each centre rod end in the centre diff mount holes.

But for now stick a mount on and attach both to one point in the middle of the CD.

I dont like two rod ends on one screw as the taller the screw the more leverage it has to bend mayb. But using a mount nothing will be permanent apart from the hole drilled into rear chassis brace mount. So is worth a shot right.??


I almost forgot this i saw the spare diff cups i have look stronger to me than whats fitted. I test fitted one and i think its a direct fit.

Mayb Vorza or other D8 spawn diff cups? Anyone know for sure and if they are stronger than tesssman ones. Defo look chunkier.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...pseyrq2fjm.jpg

Thats as far as it is atm.

Ok i swapped the rear diff around etc rebuilt it and then rolling two wheels made the other two wheels rotate in the same direction.

But when i powerd it up and just tested throttle it spun like a crab on the spot. Like now its definitly backwards.

Also freewheeling it with motor and pinion gear on it rolls smooth. It doesn't clunk the pinion gear around.

So i rolled another rc just to see which way its other wheels turn and they turned in the same direction as i expected.

But now i think i need to swap the rear diff back around and try it to see.

Its tripping me out because the other rc rolls the same way. So why is it spinning on the spot?

Any help appreciated its been years since ive had 3 diff rcs. Riding traxxas till now. Plus this is the first 4s+ rc ive put togeher

The ease the power had i cant wait now to see how it drives. YouTube D8 Vorza MT builds usually look really agile low down but not much top speed. Im hoping to match Mt410 specs if possible. 4-5-6s 4s Atm.

Thanks.