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Old 06-27-2019, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by token View Post
The run them too and they are pretty darn goo IMO. Right now I back to the 5 hole pistons.
installed Iíve got the 5 holes on Bypass1, AE 40wt front, AE 37.5 rear, stock springs. Bought some Mugen Springs, but I want to back to back them at the track so I havenít installed them yet. Iíll post up how it works for me when I get out there.
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Old 07-06-2019, 12:59 PM
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Hh

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Old 07-06-2019, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dickie doyle View Post


installed Iíve got the 5 holes on Bypass1, AE 40wt front, AE 37.5 rear, stock springs. Bought some Mugen Springs, but I want to back to back them at the track so I havenít installed them yet. Iíll post up how it works for me when I get out there.
couple questions. Iím about to order the Bypass1ís. What type of track are you running on with a shock set up like that? Hard pack, groove, bumpy, low traction, big jumps, right, technical, etc? Iím looking for a good base set up for my local track with the Bypassís, but my track is rough, low-mid traction, small jumps, tight corners. Currently running stock everything in my X, Losi oil 37.5 front, and 35 rear. So changing to Bypass, I didnít want it to throw everything off wack making that change. And why is it so many people run AE oil in their Losiís, whatís the benefit? Same with Mugen springs?
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Old 07-07-2019, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by xlrsd View Post

couple questions. Iím about to order the Bypass1ís. What type of track are you running on with a shock set up like that? Hard pack, groove, bumpy, low traction, big jumps, right, technical, etc? Iím looking for a good base set up for my local track with the Bypassís, but my track is rough, low-mid traction, small jumps, tight corners. Currently running stock everything in my X, Losi oil 37.5 front, and 35 rear. So changing to Bypass, I didnít want it to throw everything off wack making that change. And why is it so many people run AE oil in their Losiís, whatís the benefit? Same with Mugen springs?
I run AE oil only because my LHS carries the full spectrum of weights. I stick with it because I have a ton of it and think that if I go up a 2.5wt it will really be 2.5wt.

My local track rack is very different on practice day than how it is on race day, so setup is tough. My recommendation would be to change one thing at a time, then adjust around that.... install the bypass1 clear front and blue rear, and everything else exactly the same as you had it, see how it drives for a few tanks. Then change something easy, that doesnít take much time, like springs OR shock position, to suit what the car is doing, try that for a few tanks. I am not super fast, so I try to tune my cars as predictable and easy to drive as possible.... when I try proís setup sheets, they tend to be too twitchy for me, so coming up with my own setups work better for me. Iíve, in the past, made a bunch of changes like diff oil, shock package and tires at the same time while at home, but then I have no idea what worked and what didnít once I get on the track. It totally sucks if you donít have much time to test at the track, but thatís the game weíre all playing I guess.

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Old 07-07-2019, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by dickie doyle View Post


I run AE oil only because my LHS carries the full spectrum of weights. I stick with it because I have a ton of it and think that if I go up a 2.5wt it will really be 2.5wt.

My local track rack is very different on race day than how it is on race day, so setup is tough. My recommendation would be to change one thing at a time, then adjust around that.... install the bypass1 clear front and blue rear, and everything else exactly the same as you had it, see how it drives for a few tanks. Then change something easy, that doesnít take much time, like springs OR shock position, to suit what the car is doing, try that for a few tanks. I am not super fast, so I try to tune my cars as predictable and easy to drive as possible.... when I try proís setup sheets, they tend to be too twitchy for me, so coming up with my own setups work better for me. Iíve, in the past, made a bunch of changes like diff oil, shock package and tires at the same time while at home, but then I have no idea what worked and what didnít once I get on the track. It totally sucks if you donít have much time to test at the track, but thatís the game weíre all playing I guess.
awesome, thanks for the reply. Iím pretty much in the same boat, nearest track to me is an hour and a half, so testing any changes out prior to race day is almost non existent. Lol. Iíll give your suggestion a whirl! Iím not big on pro set ups either, they are typically for track conditions no where near the condition of tracks i race on. Thanks again for the advice; I look forward to trying these bypasses out!
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Old 07-09-2019, 06:47 AM
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Anyone found a good base set up sheet for a dirt, low traction, and rough track? All the ones on losiís website are for big races, and we all know those are typically pristine, smooth, and blue. Anyway, anywhere other than losiís website to find good X set up sheets that would satisfy our local club tracks better?
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Old 07-09-2019, 11:11 AM
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Use Don Vinkmulder's setup from Silverstate this year. I run on a similar track to what you explained and my car is really good with that set up. I do have 3.5mm shock shafts with Evo blue springs on the front and evo red springs on the back is the only difference
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Old 07-09-2019, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by sancho View Post
Use Don Vinkmulder's setup from Silverstate this year. I run on a similar track to what you explained and my car is really good with that set up. I do have 3.5mm shock shafts with Evo blue springs on the front and evo red springs on the back is the only difference
I second this.
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Old 07-09-2019, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by sancho View Post
Use Don Vinkmulder's setup from Silverstate this year. I run on a similar track to what you explained and my car is really good with that set up. I do have 3.5mm shock shafts with Evo blue springs on the front and evo red springs on the back is the only difference
awesome, Iíll give it look see. Thanks a lot, Sancho! Edit: just looked at it. Looks pretty good, definitely a couple things on there that are different than what I run. Especially diff weights! I typically run 7-7-3. He was at 10-5-3. Saw something on his that Iíve always been curious about, but never really asked or figured out. He has a steel flywheel on his setup. What exactly does that do tuning wise in comparison to an aluminum flywheel? And how? Never figured this out.
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Old 07-09-2019, 07:49 PM
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Smooths the bottom end out.
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Old 07-09-2019, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by sancho View Post
Smooths the bottom end out.
then I can assume this is a lot harder on your clutch shoes right? Lol I feel that added weight would take it longer to get that heavier weight fly wheel spinning, causing more slippage from the shoes on the clutch bell, because it would start up slower? And most likely harder on your breaks, as that weight would also add to the centrifugal force of the flywheel, causing your drive train to remain spinning faster and longer once you let off the gas? Seems like thereís definitely some give and take going with steel. Am I on the right idea here? Lol

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Old 07-10-2019, 06:34 AM
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I have not noticed a difference in shoe life or brakes.
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Old 07-10-2019, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by xlrsd View Post

then I can assume this is a lot harder on your clutch shoes right? Lol I feel that added weight would take it longer to get that heavier weight fly wheel spinning, causing more slippage from the shoes on the clutch bell, because it would start up slower? And most likely harder on your breaks, as that weight would also add to the centrifugal force of the flywheel, causing your drive train to remain spinning faster and longer once you let off the gas? Seems like thereís definitely some give and take going with steel. Am I on the right idea here? Lol
I think your looking at power direction opposite of where it's coming from. The steel flywheel reduces the rate of engine rpm. The clutch will engage at the same rpm whether it is a steel or aluminum flywheel. The engagement is dependent on the springs and weight of the shoes.
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Old 07-10-2019, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by dodgeguy View Post
I think your looking at power direction opposite of where it's coming from. The steel flywheel reduces the rate of engine rpm. The clutch will engage at the same rpm whether it is a steel or aluminum flywheel. The engagement is dependent on the springs and weight of the shoes.
dang, youíre right. I was trying to think my way through the physics of all that is happening in that chain. I was off. Lol. So essentially, heavier flywheel=slower engine spool up. In turn, reducing wheel spin out in loose traction, because itís taking some away from torque.
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Old 07-17-2019, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Officespace View Post
Besides the Protek, Dynamite and Gens Ace batteries, does anyone know of any other receiver batteries that fit in the new battery tray? Using my old batteries from my 4.0 now, but want to upgrade/update my rx batteries soon. Thanks
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