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Mugen MBX8

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Old 05-31-2019, 05:05 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Mugen MBX8
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E2025 - MBX8 Worlds Edition - April, 2019

MUGE0240: Wide Offset Wheel Hubs 1mm 2pcs; The 1mm wide offset wheel hubs will increase stability and cornering.
MUGE2146: Inline Front Uprights; The E2146 inline front uprights have smoother steering compared to the stock E2147 trailing front uprights and work great in high traction conditions. E2146 uprights can be used with both CVA and universal style driveshafts.
MUGE2168: -3mm Front Upright Arm; The -3mm front upright arm improves the initial steering response and make the vehicle more stable through the middle and exit of the corner.. The new upright arms also reduce bump steer and make the vehicle more predictable in bumpy conditions.
MUGE2235: 46T Spur Gear; The 46 tooth HTD spur gear provides a great balance of acceleration and top-end speed.
MUGE2252: 12T Pinion Gear
MUGE2254: 42T Conical Gear; The optional 12T bevel gear when used with the 42T conical gear will change the final drive ratio and increase acceleration.
MUGE2260: Center Joint Cup.
MUGE2261: Center Front Dog Bone (84.5mm)
MUGE2262: Center Rear Dog Bone (115mm); The front and rear-center dogbones for the MBX8 reduce friction from the stock universal driveshafts. Less friction will give the vehicle a more efficient drivetrain, increase acceleration, and provide more traction. The dog bones are lightweight, durable, and will increase traction.
MUGE2428: Rear Wing Stay +15mm; The +15mm wing mount has more adjustment and will help increase mid corner rotation and be more stable in high speed conditions.


E2021 - MBX8 1/8 Nitro Buggy Kit

Chassis:
The MBX8 chassis features a new design that improves traction and stability in bumpy conditions and on the exit of corners. The steering post are also keyed into the MBX8 chassis for easier maintenance.

Differential & drive train:
High Traction Differentials are included in the MBX8. The Mugen Seiki HTD provides increased acceleration, longer runtime, and more consistent handling. The HTD's also increase stability, traction, and improve handling in bumpy conditions. The HTD has a new larger volume diff cup to increase consistency during long main events. This makes it easier to time rhythm sections, better in bumpy and low grip conditions, helps to increase traction, and increases fuel mileage.

The new gearbox makes allows you to remove and service the differentials without detaching the suspension arm mounts. Easy access to the front and rear differential.

New straight cut 13T bevel gear & 44T conical gear. The new straight cut bevel and conical gears increase acceleration, runtime, and efficiency. A free and efficient drive train will also increase speeds while cornering.

Light weight one-piece wing mount:
The new lightweight one-piece wing mount lower the center of gravity. The position of the wing and wing mount is optimized to improve the performance of vehicle. The height of the wing mount is adjustable. This allows you to control the down force on the rear of the vehicle by simply raising or lowering the mount on the shock tower.

Light weight high down-force wing:
The new IFMAR legal wing is lightweight and provides amazing down force and cornering. The underside of the wing uses a new design to reduced weight and creates additional down-force.

Suspension:
New suspension mounts. The FF/FR/RF/RR are new for the MBX8.
The front and rear lower arms use a new impact resistant material for increased durability. The new arms are box-shaped and include arm stiffeners to reduce flex and increase durability. Adjusting the hardness of the lower suspension arms is now possible. This allows you to fine tune the steering and traction from track to track. CFRP plates will be released as an option part.

Center differential mount & plate:
The center differential mounts use a stiffer material and has a new top plate to reduce chassis flex and increases clutch bell, spur gear, and clutch bearing life. The reduced chassis flex also provides more consistent handling in all conditions. The top plate design also makes it easier to adjust the brakes and easier maintenance.

Enclosed Battery box and updated carbon fiber radio plate:
The MBX8 still uses a flat 2S Lipo or Life battery, but the receiver battery is now enclosed in a molded battery box. The battery box allows for quick and easy access to the battery. The molded box also helps protect the battery from hard impacts. The battery box is mounted to an updated carbon fiber radio plate.

Other new parts and upgrades:
Body, Clamping Servo Saver Nut, F/R Shock Towers, Front bumper, Front center and rear center universal joint.

Mugen Seiki MBX8 Manual

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Old 06-04-2019, 02:39 PM
  #946  
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He sold it right now. Never he keep the clutch system more than some hrs. He will add it again
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Old 06-04-2019, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Chrisgewrgi View Post
well i dont have mbx8 right now front of me.but on agama sv and rc8b3.1 this doesnt happend.i thing its not normal.and in mind its like somehow ur diff inside its loose and when u put side pressure the gears inside moves to the other side than u do pressure and stuck.i cant explane in english well.u need wait someone with mbx8 to check it.but i thing its not normal
I remove the diff from the car and started remove parts inside the diff until it was free.

In the end I had just and empty diffcup and spur gear with the outdrives in it and it still locked up. So no O-rings, washer, gears or the small pins inside the diff. Just and empty diff with outdrives that I could pull out if I wanted to.
This made me belief that the outdrive or diffcup has a small mark in it that made it lock. I created a fine polishing tool for my dremel and started to polish the inside of the diffcup where the outdrive goes. Then I put the outdrive in a drill and polished the outdrive. After mouting everything back together is better, but still not like the front diff. But maybe it betters after running the car.

I'll do the rear diff tomorrow and see how it goes.

Or maybe the grease is bad that I'm using? I'm using Mobil 1 100% synthetic grease (the red stuff). I always used that on my MBX6 and MBX7 and never had problems with it. But I didn't race RC for 5 years and I my grease is about 10 years old now. Maybe there is something better for that purpose now.
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Old 06-05-2019, 06:10 AM
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What is the best grease for coating the ring and pinion gears on the front and rear diffs? Need one that doesn't sling off.
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Old 06-05-2019, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by TheRockman View Post
What is the best grease for coating the ring and pinion gears on the front and rear diffs? Need one that doesn't sling off.
I have always liked Team Associated Black grease, just use a little, like 3-4 dots. If that flings off you have used to much.
Going overboard with hi-tech grease there can have an opposite effect and wear out the gears.
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Old 06-05-2019, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
I remove the diff from the car and started remove parts inside the diff until it was free.

In the end I had just and empty diffcup and spur gear with the outdrives in it and it still locked up. So no O-rings, washer, gears or the small pins inside the diff. Just and empty diff with outdrives that I could pull out if I wanted to.
This made me belief that the outdrive or diffcup has a small mark in it that made it lock. I created a fine polishing tool for my dremel and started to polish the inside of the diffcup where the outdrive goes. Then I put the outdrive in a drill and polished the outdrive. After mouting everything back together is better, but still not like the front diff. But maybe it betters after running the car.

I'll do the rear diff tomorrow and see how it goes.

Or maybe the grease is bad that I'm using? I'm using Mobil 1 100% synthetic grease (the red stuff). I always used that on my MBX6 and MBX7 and never had problems with it. But I didn't race RC for 5 years and I my grease is about 10 years old now. Maybe there is something better for that purpose now.
i dont thing its the grease the problem.this is strange.maybe ur diff case its too loose inside there where the outdrive go.
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Old 06-05-2019, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by TheRockman View Post
What is the best grease for coating the ring and pinion gears on the front and rear diffs? Need one that doesn't sling off.
i use ae black grease too,cause my main car its the rc8b3.1
...2 years now with no problem.
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Old 06-06-2019, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Chrisgewrgi View Post
i dont thing its the grease the problem.this is strange.maybe ur diff case its too loose inside there where the outdrive go.
I checked the play it feels normal compared to the gear side. After rebuilding the diff and polishing the diffcup and outdrive, the front is now pretty smooth and the rear outdrive seems to lockup a bit.
I'll run it first to see it that makes it better.

And on the rear diff, it's the left side (gear side). I still have to rebuild that one.
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Old 06-07-2019, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
I checked the play it feels normal compared to the gear side. After rebuilding the diff and polishing the diffcup and outdrive, the front is now pretty smooth and the rear outdrive seems to lockup a bit.
I'll run it first to see it that makes it better.

And on the rear diff, it's the left side (gear side). I still have to rebuild that one.
Rear diff is OK now. I remove the outdrive from the ring gear, put it in a drill and polished it with a microfiber cloth and some fine chrome polish I had laying around.
Then cleaned of the polish with some brake cleaner and regrease with Mobil 1 grease. It's super smooth now.

I'm not sure why it got stuck in the first place. I suppose the grease was worn out or some dirt entered.
I hope it stays smooth for longer than 1 day at the track.
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Old 06-10-2019, 05:42 AM
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I went to the track this morning after I polished the outdrives of my diffs earlier this week and it's a car different now. Our astro track was pretty damp this morning and then it's really slippery. But instead of having massive oversteer, the car was understeering a little bit on power instead of spinning out like a 2WD buggy. I'm glad the issue is solved. The car is now a lot easier to drive :-)
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TheRockman View Post
What is the best grease for coating the ring and pinion gears on the front and rear diffs? Need one that doesn't sling off.
sil-glyde brake lubricant
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:19 PM
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i got some buku composite shoes which recommend being used with a vented clutchbell so i got a mugen bell but when shimming, the crankshaft does not protrude past the bearing thus a washer on the screw tightens down on the bearing causing binding.. i used 2 tiny washers the same OD as the shaft and it appears to be working but i am worried about not having a wider washer on the end.. is this a problem?
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by snowninja View Post
i got some buku composite shoes which recommend being used with a vented clutchbell so i got a mugen bell but when shimming, the crankshaft does not protrude past the bearing thus a washer on the screw tightens down on the bearing causing binding.. i used 2 tiny washers the same OD as the shaft and it appears to be working but i am worried about not having a wider washer on the end.. is this a problem?
Get a serpent clutch bell. My mugen bell did the same thing so I got the Reds Durabell and it got sloppy after a few gallons. The Serpent bell is much better.
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
I went to the track this morning after I polished the outdrives of my diffs earlier this week and it's a car different now. Our astro track was pretty damp this morning and then it's really slippery. But instead of having massive oversteer, the car was understeering a little bit on power instead of spinning out like a 2WD buggy. I'm glad the issue is solved. The car is now a lot easier to drive :-)
If you were to build a new kit would you do this as you were building it, now?
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Old 06-13-2019, 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Big Will View Post
If you were to build a new kit would you do this as you were building it, now?
I don't think it's needed on a new kit. I think I drove my car more than I thought and the grease probably dried out making the diffs hard to turn under pressure.
But I will keep doing this during my diff rebuilds if the outdrive still have a black layer of them after cleaning them with a rag.
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Old 06-13-2019, 07:44 AM
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Really you would only need to polish the out drives and diff cup plus the ring gear if the out drives didn't spin freely after you first insert them into the ring gear or diff cup with nothing else in there.
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