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Dissecting buggies and their performance.

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Dissecting buggies and their performance.

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Old 12-29-2017, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by mlax View Post
Would be interesting to see your thoughts on the NB48.4 given that the platform is significantly different from pretty much all the others.
How could I forgot this? It's a nice one, later today will post something because the setups developed for this platform were always terrible.
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Old 12-30-2017, 04:32 AM
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Tekno NB48 series, specifically the .4 as it's the one I have more data from.

Suspension geometry.
Changes between revisions, remember there isn't right or wrong geometry if the camber curves are right. That said the geometry has been stable (means it doesn't change a lot) for quite some time.

Durability.
Tops, no worries here.

Parts flex and design.
Many parts to choose from, the design is weird to me with all the straight lines and angles but it works and might take less machine time to make. Flex is on point, not too much nor too little. Body design is where I think it could improve, just the cab part.

Drive train efficiency.
I seem to recall something with the first version, offset rear diff? Either way I don't see any issue now.

How easy it is to work on them.
Diffs are same as other old school platforms (read not like the RC8B3). Everything else seems fine particularly the servo tray.

Tuning parts.
No issue here.

Overall support, both technical and availability.
Good support, gained respect from everyone. I even think they read what I shared regarding suspension design. Cool brand!
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Old 12-30-2017, 05:00 AM
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I'm a Kyosho guy but seriously tempted by either Tekno or Serpent SRX8 Evo...

the SRX8 looks so freakin well equipped and made out of the best materials, especially given its price.
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Old 12-30-2017, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mlax View Post
I'm a Kyosho guy but seriously tempted by either Tekno or Serpent SRX8 Evo...

the SRX8 looks so freakin well equipped and made out of the best materials, especially given its price.
Both are very good, the Serpent maybe has an edge because of the suspension geometry being nicer to the tires (long arms) and of course it's well equipped out of the box. The only thing I don't like it's the clutch, would render all my spare clutch parts useless.
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Old 12-30-2017, 08:50 AM
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Such an amazing thread from first hand driver experience, thank you. Just bought a mbx7r, can't wait to see what this thing has. First buggy of then my 5b haha, should be fun but I've always been a truggy/mt guy.
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Old 12-30-2017, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth View Post
Both are very good, the Serpent maybe has an edge because of the suspension geometry being nicer to the tires (long arms) and of course it's well equipped out of the box. The only thing I don't like it's the clutch, would render all my spare clutch parts useless.
I'm a REDS clutch guy anyways
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Old 12-30-2017, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by CBren32 View Post
Such an amazing thread from first hand driver experience, thank you. Just bought a mbx7r, can't wait to see what this thing has. First buggy of then my 5b haha, should be fun but I've always been a truggy/mt guy.
My pleasure.

Originally Posted by mlax View Post
I'm a REDS clutch guy anyways
Then get one second hand
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Old 07-01-2018, 07:26 AM
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TLR Eight X. This gonna be good...

No axle to grind here but not holding back punches.

-suspension geometry;
Too close of the mbx7-8, what were the losi guys thinking? Could improve the previous design with what they've done instead of trying to redo the Mugen style geometry with its inclined spindles and huge amounts of caster and weird roll stiffness distribution. Oh and the camber curves.

-durability;
If they improved the hinge pins then it's all good.

-parts flex and design;
Some things seem not thoroughly thought,like the eclips on the brake arms,at least it now uses standard Rx pack. What is that with the stiffeners and the unneeded complexity?

-drive train efficiency;
Lmao,the centre diff was moved many times before someone thought that the front and rear should have shared half of the friction. Expect to change front diff outdrives more regularly than before.

-how easy it is to work on them,
New gen,minimal parts need to be disassembled.

-tuning parts,
Different shock shafts as tuning? There's zero reasons to have too thick shafts. What's next,2mm chassis?

-overall support, both technical and availability.
Let's see,don't hold your hopes high it took them 10 years to come up with a "improved" replacement...

Hey at least the car will be more suited suited to Savoya,he had much success with the mbx6.
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Old 07-06-2018, 12:24 PM
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@30tooth
what are your thoughts about The Car BE so far And JQ design philosophy, do you agreed with him ? ( always running low roller centers )
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Old 07-06-2018, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Ricardo_d99 View Post
@30tooth
what are your thoughts about The Car BE so far And JQ design philosophy, do you agreed with him ? ( always running low roller centers )
While I agree with him regarding the suspension geometry, caster and mechanical trail are way too much, he's on the right path though...

I've been thinking the white edition could be set with the zero dog bone plunge in mind and work from there. With its diffs and CG lower is should be a tiny bit better, but unsure of grip balance.
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Old 07-06-2018, 03:50 PM
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Iíve been racing the Mugen mbx7r and Iíve just never been able to tame the rear end. It always feels incredibly loose and never stable. Iíve tried different setups, reached out to the pros for advice, etc etc, and still no real difference. Ended up turning my radio dual rates down to 70% just to keep some aspect of cornering stability.

In your opinion, for someone looking to make a change, what platform would you describe as more stable, consistent and easy to drive?
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Old 07-06-2018, 03:57 PM
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One with the rear arm pivots closer or equal than the front ones,like the mp9 tki3, the xray xb8, Hb d81x, serpent srx8 and the JQ black edition...
TLR, Mugen and the AE have the rear pivots wider than the front and are compromised on rear traction also because of the rear upper link length. Shortening them would help, coupled with making the driveshafts parallel with the lower arms. Then you'd have to play with springs and roll bars to achieve the balance you like, at that point you also have to ponder if it is worth the trouble you go through when you could buy one of the above mentioned buggies and enjoy more rear traction right away.

Last edited by 30Tooth; 07-06-2018 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 07-06-2018, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MattDickson View Post
Iíve been racing the Mugen mbx7r and Iíve just never been able to tame the rear end. It always feels incredibly loose and never stable. Iíve tried different setups, reached out to the pros for advice, etc etc, and still no real difference. Ended up turning my radio dual rates down to 70% just to keep some aspect of cornering stability.

In your opinion, for someone looking to make a change, what platform would you describe as more stable, consistent and easy to drive?
Without a doubt the Kyosho Tki4. Itís a little pricey but itís so easy to drive right out of the box. Iíve recently tried the Tekno and associated buggies but going right back to the Kyosho.
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Old 07-06-2018, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MattDickson View Post
Iíve been racing the Mugen mbx7r and Iíve just never been able to tame the rear end. It always feels incredibly loose and never stable. Iíve tried different setups, reached out to the pros for advice, etc etc, and still no real difference. Ended up turning my radio dual rates down to 70% just to keep some aspect of cornering stability.

In your opinion, for someone looking to make a change, what platform would you describe as more stable, consistent and easy to drive?
as @30tooth mention above the problem comes from the short lower arms and the long upper camber links and some solutions I found ( @30tooth correct me if Iím wrong please )
ērunning the camber link lowest possible on the tower ( higher roll center )
ē using the camber link shortest possible on the tower. ( as mention by 30tooth)
ē minimize the distance between the out drive and the outer hinge-ping on the arm vŪa the hub
ē running the right amount of camber no too much or too little
ē using the mbx7-t hinge pin which is narrower than stock combine with the mbx6r arms that are longer than the mbx7 ( car keeps having the stock track width ) part #: E0150 arms , hinge pins E2127, E2128.
ē buy another car
all of those should help tame the rear a bit , also sometimes asking the pros helps , but other times it might get you more confused, not all pros know car dynamics and theory , they just do trial and error until they find ďthe setupĒ rather than go on and do what @30tooth does and apply actual theory , acknowledge and physics into these toy cars.
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Old 07-07-2018, 06:01 AM
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Thanks for the kind words Ricardo.

All good advise and for example you could leave the rear alone and make the front end roll more than the rear but then the balance would be further compromised,that's why tlr began with a clean sheet design with the X because whoever design it made the front end have less grip in hopes of making it better than before, of course you want all the grip you can have and the results show the car isn't great.

This year's a world championship year, will be interesting to see how teams prepare themselves!

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