trout74

iTrader: (4)

I really like the Proline MX43 badlands on mine, just drill out the hole with a step bit and its even marked on the inside of the wheel. I have managed several backflips with them on the DBXLe off my ramp. Great tire, no balloon and widens the stance and makes it more stable.
Trout

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Love the no ballooning feature, but I can't stand the weight. The MX43 tires on my X-MAXX were just too heavy. I took off a ton of weight with aluminum screws, but it is not enough IMO.

trout74

iTrader: (4)

Hey, thats why we have options! Everyone can choose what THEY like best. I love them on my xmaxx, and I have madMax landGrippers on the other xamxx. Weight doesnt bother me on either truck, I can flip them both and the xmaxx, can do double backflip no problem. My xmaxx's are far from stock, plenty of power.
Cheers!
trout

CBren32

iTrader: (5)

This truck worth the huge price tag? Was almost ready to purchase a Savage X 4.6, but damn would I like to have a 1/5 scale electric beast. Let me know what you guys think, is she really RTR out the box? Can she run 10s+ power? Do they have spare parts (aluminum) out for her yet? Please let me know!

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Its not a 10s rig because electronics limit the power you can use. Read all about it in this thread and the Losi page here: Losi: Desert Buggy XL-E:1/5th 4wd Elec RTR Black/Yellow: Losi (LOS05012T1)

There are aluminum parts. Chassis stiffeners, skid plates and such. Many of the GAS DBXL buggy parts are the same, but I think chassis brace up front is all you really need.

The price is good considering cost of other 5th scale monster trucks or buggies this size. Only you can decide if the price is worth the fun you will have.

I do like that it drives well and is adjustable like 1/8 e-buggies. It doesn't have the best electronics out of the box, but they work ok to get you started IMO.

Anthonytoyo

https://youtu.be/HSRwKk-UcEk

Kattz

Want to add locking center diff and mechanical diff brakes. Other than the second servo, will the gas model upgrades work?

Thanks

Kev

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Have not tried it. Don't see the need, but with enough money and time it can be done.

It is likely you will need the brake parts and one side from the center diff mount from the gas buggy. Find a local with guy with gas rig to study or local hobby shop that has one on display. Good luck.

Kattz

Looks like about an $80 add using Area or FID parts. Locked diff still considering, but not decided.

The reason for wanting the brakes is that when you brake using the ESC, you're regenerating current through the motor and ESC, unless you've set up the ESC to run your motor in reverse. Yes, they're made for that, but it creates a lot of heat in the system that can be eliminated.

The DBXL-E weighs in at around 34 pounds ready to go. That is a LOT of stress on the pinion, motor shaft, etc. to try to stop it quickly.

I think that Losi made a mistake by not leaving the diff brakes on both car models. They're relying too much on the ESC to take those loads.

Thanks for your comments. I appreciate it!

Kevin

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

You are right about wt, but pinion and motor can take it fine. The real issue is the ESC. Its on the edge of not being enough for this size rig. Might just spend that money on Max 5 ESC. TAKE the heat blanket off, the flat panel with driver figure holds in heat and keeps out cool fresh air.

There is something that will for sure help make lipos and ESC last longer and run cooler. Its a super large capacitor bank. Check out Kill Mode capacitor packs. I'm using this one with a custom 22HP motor that eats lipos.
https://www.killmoderc.com/online-st...-***-p84360572

Only negative is the spark and slight burn on EC5 connector when I plug it in. Probably best to leave this capacitor charged by unplugging it before powering off ESC so voltage spike is not so bad as a completely discharged capacitor is. I'm waiting to hear back from Kill Mode concerning this, but the unit works as advertised! Sucks up those voltage spikes in and out making huge dent in heat problems.

Kattz

That's really neat. How are you mounting it?

Thanks for the link!

Kev

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

High strength double sided tape. There is a spot on the right side of chassis that looks like it was made to go there. I drilled a hole in the center diff support just big enough to run a small zip tie through and did same on side guard. then added small ties across the top of capacitor for some extra holding power, a seat belt if you will. After a high speed crash with multiple flips it shows no sign of movement. Capacitor pack weighs nothing for it's size and wont take much to retain it.

Need to rig an anti spark connection like this to prevent arching when connecting lipo or capacitor pack. See new anti spark connector in last link below for best solution.

https://www.amazon.com/No-Spark-Curr.../dp/B0092U6940

R/C Calculations

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/xt90-s-a...pairs-bag.html

I plan to use these connectors now that I know about them.

Kattz

So, I had purchased my DBXL-E two weeks ago, but kept it "under wraps" until my daughter could open her new Nero.

<rant mode on>

NOT IMPRESSED. Everything is loose. I bought the alloy front and rear chassis braces, top plate, and servo saver. When I started disassembly last night, found two missing screws, the screws in the steering posts were about ready to fall out, and when I pulled out the servo saver, 1980's Tamiya-style bushings fell out.

No bearings? The hobby shop thought everything was bearing-supported. What else isn't bearing-supported on this car?

My RC experience is pretty vast - Tamiya and TA in the early 80's, Losi, HPI, and Ofna in the late 80's to 2000's, and I flew Hirobo, GMP, and Miniature Aircraft USA (Xcell) helicopters from 1985 through 2015. Boats for a while when I lived in South Carolina.

Some of those cars needed bearing upgrades, but they told you on the box.

IMO, without the upgrades, the car is not worth the money. Losi makes all of the alloy bracing and top plate, so they know that there is an issue with the vehicle and should market the car with these options included and toss the molded parts in the garbage.

Also, this car should come as a kit at a lower cost. There really is nothing to it, nothing a 13-year-old couldn't do to assemble this. That way, the consumer controls the quality of the build.

BTW, my 10-year-old daughter's Nero from Arrma has a nicer radio and locking diffs. 1/2 the cost.

<rant mode off>

Kev

Kattz

To get ahead of the game, I purchased the GDS Racing front and rear chassis plate braces, the front plate, and the steering linkage update kit, as there were many reports of these stock plastic parts failing often, sometimes right out of the box.

Although I was pretty impressed with the GDS parts, the front plate does not fit the DBXL-E car, and the seller refunded my money. BTW, for the money, these parts look great and are very nicely machined. Wish they made more for the DBXL and DBXL-E.

Anyway, I pulled out the plastic parts and everything was going well until I started assembly. I'm used to .60 sized nitro helicopters; they do not have any slop whatsoever.

These parts had some slop in the control link as built.

I went to the local hobby shop, but they didn't have what I was looking for. So I then went to Lowe's and after much rummaging around in the hardware and plumbing o-rings, found these nylon washers with a 3/8" ID. They fit well on the bellcrank. Make sure you get the washers that are 1/32" thick. The other washers in the same size ID and OD are too thick.

After assembly, there was still approximately 0.004" (checked with feeler gage) and smooth movement with absolutely no binding. They fit like they're part of the kit, with only about 0.010" protruding from the radiused area...

If you have the bearings that have the dirt shields on them (not black sealed inserts, but shiny metal),this might just save your flanged bearings on this type of kit.

Looking online at the kits from GDS, Area RC, and FID Racing, they all appear to have this slop in this area based on the photos on the Web. This allows the bearing to become unseated and allowing in dirt and crud into the joint area while bouncing over terrain.

If you're using these kits, please consider this $0.52 fix and maybe it'll save you some $ down the road.

Kev

Dave_S

iTrader: (1)

Do people normally run aluminum chassis braces on these?

I put one on the rear of my buggy because there was so much flex, but wouldn't run them on the front or rear on my 5ive t.