Kid's FLM E-Maxx: 1730kv, RPM, Hyper 7, Proline, MIP..
 

Hi,

Current parts (as of 7th Oct 2017)
Castle Mamba Monster X
Castle 6.5mm Bullet Connectors
FLM Hybrid Bulks
FLM Skid Plates
FLM Shock Towers
FLM Bulkhead Brace
HPP Germany 17mm Hex Hubs
HPI Vorza 48T Center Diff
Hobbywing 10/15A UBEC
Hobao 93/115mm Dog Bones
Leopard 4092 1730kv
MIP Spline Driveshafts
Ofna Hyper 7TQ Differentials
Proline Super Swampers 3.8"
Proline Chevy 72'
RC-Monster Vmaxx Chassis
RC-Monster Universal Diff Mount
RPM A-Arms
RPM Front Bumper
RPM Front Knuckles
RPM True Track Rear
Savöx SW-1210SG (two of them)
Traxxas Big Bore Shocks
T-Bone Racing Skids
VG Racing Progressive springs
Yeah Racing 30x30mm Fans
Yeah Racing Heatsink
.
..
...
+ A bunch of self made parts and mods such as:
Aluminium ESC Mounting Plate
Aluminum ESC Fan Mount
Aluminum BEC Mount
Aluminium Reciever Box mount
Custom Lenght Extension Cables
Hinge pins made out of hardened 3mm screwdriver shafts
Wires wrapped in Black Sleeve
UBEC painted with Liquid Tape
Dual Servo Saver mod

Purpose
I thought I would share some pictures of my FLM project. The truck is almost finished but you never know what will happen in the future. The goal is to inspire others looking to build a similar truck and share some of the solutions that I have made.

Background
It all started with a Traxxas E-Maxx Brushless with TSM, I bought it brand new. One of the first upgrades I did was RPM parts and new wheels (Proline Big Joe II), and then I carried on with aluminium shock caps and new bearings and shims for the stock differentials. I have since then added various small upgrades such as TiN shock shafts, Savöx servo and BEC. The most substantial one will be the FLM chassis and hybrid bulkheads.

Motivation
I do a bit of jumping, bashing, crawling, high speed runs, sliding etc. on all surfaces and I want an all purpose truck. I have tried to balance the build according to my purpose and taste. My goal is have a truck that is practical and unique, still looking aesthetically pleasing. I have tried to incorporate this concept into all mods that are done and will be done.

http://i.imgsafe.org/4dae09d05f.jpg
The truck right before the FLM upgrades.

http://i.imgsafe.org/bfaeab3649.jpg
I disassembled all parts and put them in a box.

http://i.imgsafe.org/bfae8a51f3.jpg
Thanks to a tip I headed over to ebay and bought some Ofna Hyper 7 TQ differentials, front and rear.

http://i.imgsafe.org/54233d3d59.jpg
I prepared for the installation in the FLM bulkheads.

http://i.imgsafe.org/54234ecb24.jpg

http://i.imgsafe.org/542356cd4b.jpg
I filled the diff cup with some 30k weight oil and then assembled everything.

http://i.imgsafe.org/54232b5c78.jpg
I shimmed the differentials and I used one 13x16x0.2mm one each side for the ring gear and two 8x10x0.1mm shims between the pinion gear and bearing. The ring and pinion is lubed with thick bearing grease that I had laying around.

http://i.imgsafe.org/542319c666.jpg
I continued to do the same procedure on the rear differentials as well.

http://i.imgsafe.org/5422900ce0.jpg
Front and rear differentials finished.

http://i.imgsafe.org/54229c96a9.jpg
I mounted the RPM shock towers and MIP Spline shafts.

http://i.imgsafe.org/5422a3dd87.jpg
The chassis and skids. I had to take delivery of the frontal skid plate a bit later due to some screwup from the shop.

http://i.imgsafe.org/5422f4abdb.jpg

http://i.imgsafe.org/5422703c31.jpg
I started with the chassis and begin to mount the gearbox, reciever and ESC. I used blue threadlocker on all screws.

http://i.imgsafe.org/5422db057e.jpg
Savöx sw-1210sg waterproof servo, I am running it on 5.6V.

http://i.imgsafe.org/54226a49fe.jpg
All electronics mounted. I have put on cable loom on all wires to match the red/black theme of the build.

http://i.imgsafe.org/542238fb4c.jpg

http://i.imgsafe.org/54223e57a0.jpg
I then started to attatch the a-arms and carriers to the front and rear bulkheads. Shock are stock Ultrashocks with stock progressive springs, TiN shafts, alloy caps and 65wt oil.

http://i.imgsafe.org/5422351ac4.jpg
Frontal section finished.

http://i.imgsafe.org/54222b5881.jpg
Servo saver mounted. I used one o-ring in the frontal drive cup to eliminate play in the dog bone.

http://i.imgsafe.org/54225e3f37.jpg
Rear bulkhead mounted. I used one o-ring here as well.

http://i.imgsafe.org/5422147275.jpg
I had to use the stock skidplate temporarily.

http://i.imgsafe.org/54221d5353.jpg
Rear skid mounted. I had my stock wheelie bar modded in order to raise its position. I used 38mm aircraft wheels because Traxxas rubber wheels just fell off.

http://i.imgsafe.org/5422245f34.jpg
Cable management done. The Castle 10A BEC is located in a waterproof reciever box. The BEC has longer wires soldered onto it.

This is all for me now :ha:

Nice one!

cool mods ! shiny !

Thanks, this is more of a time lapse of what has happened but I dont want to post it all at once :o

I would recommend rotating the motor so the wires are off to the side. Or at the bottom of the motor. So they don't get damaged if you land upside down.
I'v seen it happen.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...o/IMG_3428.JPG

I took one of the RPM center skids and made the bottom flat, in order to mount it on the FLM chassis.

http://i.imgsafe.org/542216855d.jpg

http://i.imgsafe.org/54220854cb.jpg
I also cut the stock center skid to make the center protection complete.

http://i.imgsafe.org/b14e42ef44.jpg
I mounted the FLM frontal skid later on, since I didnt got it the first time I ordered parts. The RPM skid is really worn and I am not suprised if it will snap some time from impacts.

http://i.imgsafe.org/b14e3d3703.jpg
I got some RPM carriers for the front, and RPM true track to the rear, so I started to disassemble the stock parts right away.

http://i.imgsafe.org/b14e362ef7.jpg
These RPM ones look beefy, but I would lie if I said I didnt cross thread a couple of pillow ball set screws. Very bad work with the threading from RPM.

http://i.imgsafe.org/27d2495ad2.jpg
I cut the stock frontal skid to make a protection for the FLM skid. Functionality or OCD, who knows?

http://i.imgsafe.org/b14e30bea1.jpg
RR Gen 3, 65t slipper and RR Xtra hard 17t pinion. An alternative to HR preassure plate and brake disk mod.

http://i.imgsafe.org/c5a8d3ade0.jpg
It looks pretty nice. How ever I am not satisfied with the de-ionization of the motor plate.

http://i.imgsafe.org/c5a8c7420e.jpg

http://i.imgsafe.org/c5a8d74f43.jpg
Almost finished. There are a few things I am not so happy with, but hopefully we will solve that soon! :)

sweet build!

back in the day i had a built emaxx. nice looking truck.

Thank you. More pictures will come soon.

Looks really nice!

Nice build. Any clips of it in action?

I jumped one time and the lower arm FLM hingepins got bent badly. So I thought I would use the stock hingepins, since they are hardened steel.

http://i.imgsafe.org/27d259a892.jpg
What I did was to cut a slit with a dremel and cut of the heads and smoothen down the threads. Now I can use the stock hingepins with alloy bulks and lock them in place with a set screw.

http://i.imgsafe.org/46122c3450.jpg
My BEC is located in a waterproof reciever box, which is attatched to the rear shock tower. I made a BEC-box holder out of aluminium.

http://i.imgsafe.org/45f5958ad1.jpg
Old BEC-box mounting unit, vs. the new one that I made.

http://i.imgsafe.org/45f5a5d8b5.jpg
Now the BEC-box doesnt flex. The new mounting unit is more soild and sturdy, and it looks nicer as well.

http://i.imgsafe.org/5a65d6b754.jpg
In order to make a new ESC fan mount I had to recolate the ESC slightly, so I made a new ESC mounting plate.

http://i.imgsafe.org/5a65c7f1dd.jpg

http://i.imgsafe.org/5a65dd6a58.jpg
Mounting plate is made of 3mm aluminum, comming from a heatsink.

http://i.imgsafe.org/5a65e8485b.jpg
It bolts up to the stock chassis holes. I have since the creation of the mounting plate changed it slightly.

http://i.imgsafe.org/5a661c0cd0.jpg
In order to improve cooling of the motor, I made a custom fan mount and fan mount holder out of 3mm and 2mm scrap aluminium.

http://i.imgsafe.org/84603af523.jpg
I then cut a hole for the fan and drilled fan mouting holes.

http://i.imgsafe.org/846020a99b.jpg
I am using 30x30 Yeah Racing fans, they move alot more air than standard Castle fans and they have dual ballbearings.

http://i.imgsafe.org/84600e0b58.jpg
The goal was to improve the cooling as well as making it easy to de-attatch the fan if driving in rain or snow.

http://i.imgsafe.org/84600cc70c.jpg
The ESC is mounted with a RPM MM2 holder. It bolts down to the ESC mounting plate. I also made a fan mount holder out of 2mm L-profile aluminum.

http://i.imgsafe.org/af3467b7fd.jpg
Fan mount itself, also made out of 2mm L-profile. These L-profiles are alot stronger than bending aluminum sheet yourself. These cant be bent at all and I suspect they are T6 grade aluminum as well.

http://i.imgsafe.org/8460298841.jpg
I also made extension cables to the fans, so I dont have to open the reciever lid every time I remove the fans.

http://i.imgsafe.org/af34707086.jpg
The benefit with these fan mounts is that they are easy to remove and they dont prevent heat from radiating from the heatsinks. The stock ESC fan is not only inferior, it is also covered by a big plastic shroud that blocks airflow. Same story with the Castle CC blower, it is junk. Without these fans the ESC and motor gets hot to touch, but with them mounted I can barely feel the heat.

http://i.imgsafe.org/af3490d209.jpg

http://i.imgsafe.org/af3497ffbc.jpg
It only takes a moment to remove the motor fan and ESC fan.

http://i.imgsafe.org/af34845a72.jpg
I wanted a center skidplate in aluminum, but the one from FLM is pretty small so I thought I could make one myself.

http://i.imgsafe.org/af349edc34.jpg
It attatches to the RPM center skid as well. But I had to cut it and drill new holes in order to attatch it to the aluminum skid.

http://i.imgsafe.org/af34a4fd37.jpg

http://i.imgsafe.org/af34ab8fff.jpg
Now the aluminum and RPM skid is one unity and they protect almost the whole underside of the chassis.

http://i.imgsafe.org/e8dfc17591.jpg
http://i.imgsafe.org/e8dfcdb25d.jpg
In order to prevent the FLM skids from bending I placed a 20mm PVC pipe between the skid and bulkhead.

Nice mod's! You should try using ejector pins, they won't bend. They just break rather than bending, never had a problem with them, was so nice servicing the diffs and not having to deal with bent pins. I also like you pvc idea with the skids, I actually used the idea on mine when it was running.

I have taken bits and pieces of tips and tried to incorporate them in my build. But thanks.

Awesome work!
I like how you've made your own mods, instead of just purchasing off the self parts.
If you're on Facebook, i would recommend joining CentraleMaxx RC. You would fit right in!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/centralemaxxrc