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Old 10-04-2017, 09:10 AM   #1201
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Question for you guys; do any of you have rubbing here on the a-arm from the steering hub? I do not get the suspension drop that I have seen elsewhere. Is this normal? The rear drops to the point where the cvd axles practically rest on the a-arms but not even close on the front.

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Old 10-04-2017, 11:52 AM   #1202
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Mine is the same way and bothered me as well - but by the time I had the shocks on, droop screws set, etc - I haven't had any issues with it.
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Old 10-04-2017, 01:27 PM   #1203
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If my truck is off the ground (suspension drooped) they do rub a hair but i took care of that with a tiny file. As soon as you compress the suspension a touch they don't rub anymore and steering is very free.

Not sure if you have your droop screws installed yet but i read that installing them from the bottom means the whole screw head (larger surface area) is resting on the chassis and not just the threaded portion of the screw (installed from the top down as the manual shows).
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Old 10-04-2017, 02:21 PM   #1204
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If my truck is off the ground (suspension drooped) they do rub a hair but i took care of that with a tiny file. As soon as you compress the suspension a touch they don't rub anymore and steering is very free.

Not sure if you have your droop screws installed yet but i read that installing them from the bottom means the whole screw head (larger surface area) is resting on the chassis and not just the threaded portion of the screw (installed from the top down as the manual shows).
My droop screws are installed from the top to the bottom. If I back the droop screw out the rubbing begins to get real bad and the turning of the tires actually lifts the a-arm up on its own. So the front doesnt get the full articulation like in the rear?
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Old 10-04-2017, 02:45 PM   #1205
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This shouldn't be the case, especially if its sitting level on the ground and turning is binding and forcing your a-arms up. Did you already install your steering stop washers (pg12 of the manual)? Otherwise I'd definitely go through and check to make sure all the washer spacers are installed, collars on bushings face the correct way, etc.

Also important to set the droop screws so that your max a-arm droop is limited by the screw and a-arm and not the shock itself. You do limit your shock length travel/droop a bit to 115mm (or whatever the manual states for front and rear).

Hopefully someone else can chime in if you're still having issues.

Last edited by 3500ltz; 10-04-2017 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:33 PM   #1206
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Repaired and reinforced a thrashed body. The rear/tailgate was especially bashed and cracked from the wheelie bar hitting. I trimmed off the tailgate. I cut up some Kydex and bolted it in like a bed liner in the rear, and two pieces in the front. Old body is more ready than ever for a beating!





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Old 10-05-2017, 12:49 AM   #1207
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Repaired and reinforced a thrashed body. The rear/tailgate was especially bashed and cracked from the wheelie bar hitting. I trimmed off the tailgate. I cut up some Kydex and bolted it in like a bed liner in the rear, and two pieces in the front. Old body is more ready than ever for a beating!
I'm really liking what you're done here with the bed and front pins! Just tonight i was giving my MT a good thrashing when the rear tailgate portion of my body flew off hahaha. I might have to look into something similar and see if i can get more a little more life out of this body, thanks!
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Old 10-05-2017, 01:54 PM   #1208
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Curious how everyone's Tbone front bumpers have been working out for durability?? I have the rear w/wheelie bar already and its been great but i was a little skeptical of how the front is mounted and doesn't tie into the middle bumper plastic compression mount like the stock bumper.

I've broken my stock one but it was my own doing, smashed into a 6x6 wood lip sticking out of the ground haha. On the fence whether to grab another stocker or go Tbone?
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Old 10-05-2017, 03:47 PM   #1209
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Curious how everyone's Tbone front bumpers have been working out for durability?? I have the rear w/wheelie bar already and its been great but i was a little skeptical of how the front is mounted and doesn't tie into the middle bumper plastic compression mount like the stock bumper.

I've broken my stock one but it was my own doing, smashed into a 6x6 wood lip sticking out of the ground haha. On the fence whether to grab another stocker or go Tbone?
Mine has held up like a champ. I swapped my stock bumpers for the tbones after breaking them from some gnarly head ons. The tbones are holding up to the abuse so far. A worthy upgrade it is!
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Old 10-05-2017, 09:34 PM   #1210
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Mine has also held up to many very hard hits.
But I've just been using it late spring, summer and early fall. We will see with colder temps coming. I have shattered a few T-Bone bumpers in cold weather on other trucks in the past.
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Old 10-05-2017, 11:42 PM   #1211
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Cool thanks for the feedback guys! I'll likely pick one up and then just take it easy on the bumpers or swap them out when winter comes.
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Old 10-06-2017, 10:03 AM   #1212
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Would you guys still run this pack? I have about 10 runs on it, I realllly baby it with perfect charging/usage/storage methods. I noticed it was puffed enough to split the hard case right before I took the truck out for a run around the back yard last night.

You can see in the third pic where it's pulled the sticker away from where it used to be stuck, from the slight puffing.

It does still balance out fine.






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Old 10-06-2017, 10:48 AM   #1213
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Questions?? Pinion gear

I'm going to try the TenShock 1950KV motor. Should I stay with 15T or go to 16T pinion gear? I will only be using 4S
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Old 10-06-2017, 11:38 AM   #1214
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Would you guys still run this pack? I have about 10 runs on it, I realllly baby it with perfect charging/usage/storage methods. I noticed it was puffed enough to split the hard case right before I took the truck out for a run around the back yard last night.

You can see in the third pic where it's pulled the sticker away from where it used to be stuck, from the slight puffing.

It does still balance out fine.






I've personally run puffed packs for years after they initially puffed. Most guys are going to say don't run it....but I have never had one start on fire(except once after a bad crash, but I don't think it was puffed)

I also currently have a 4s SMC that I bought early spring this year. It puffed within the first couple runs. THATS THE QUICKEST I EVER HAD A LIPO PUFF. First and last time I buy SMC. The day I received it it was unbalanced, I contacted SMC and got attitude/no help.

i still usethe battery all the time though.
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Old 10-06-2017, 12:34 PM   #1215
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Thanks Chainsaw, I'm leaning toward still running it too. I reached out to SMC and he said the cells in these can puff up to 1.8mm for a 6s pack and that if they still balance charge OK, the pack may not be too far gone to use. For now I'm taking the pinion down from 19T to 17T and I'll try a run with the puffed pack after work to see how it goes.

The setup when I puffed this pack if anyone is curious:

MT410 w/Tekin Gen 3 combo - 4038 1350kV motor
Proline 40 series Trenchers
SMC 4500mAh 6s True Spec Premium
19T pinion

I had been running a 17T pinion successfully for a few weeks and I only have the one run on the new 19T. That's probably what puffed the pack so I'm not looking for warranty replacement honestly. I was trying to make standing back flips a bit easier w/the 19T (it worked REALLY well haha). The 19T also made wheelies almost unavoidable at any throttle input level and top speed runs in the street in front of my house went from pretty wild on 17T to downright insane on 19T.

I ran the 19T setup yesterday with my other SMC pack, the 6700mAh 4s. Standing back flips were not happening at all on 4s, hell it wouldn't even self-right. It was still fun but with the 1350kV motor, 6s is a must. I'm hoping I didn't puff the 4s pack too, we'll see how it responds to being balance charged again today.
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