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Tekno MT410

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Old 02-16-2018, 05:53 PM
  #1606  
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There is a video from this basher fella whom uses hot glue on his bodies. Seems like he is big into monster trucks and bashing. Anyhow his hit glue technique has his bodies lasting beyond long.
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Old 02-17-2018, 07:10 AM
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MT410 owners I have been thinking about getting on of these awesome MT over the past 6months. Think having a truck like this would add some variety besides me just running 10th scale race platforms. Anyhow what KV and can length should I get for running 4s mAinly and possibly 5s. Plan on having fun with this truck but also running it on our large 8th scale track so will be using truggy tire’s onthe track. Need suggesting for KV, must have upgrades. I have seen the M2C alum diffs and full length chassis brace which I will order to incorporate from the get go. Suggestion for diff oil weights when using the M2C diffs F C R .

Other suggestions are welcome and needed as I would like to build this top of the line from the get go.
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Old 02-17-2018, 11:44 AM
  #1608  
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I’m running a stock MT410 on a Castle Monster Mamba X with 1515 2200kv motor on 4S. Plenty of oomph and I don’t see a need to go more for what i’m doing with it. I also have an ET48.3 with Tekin RX8 and Tekin 4038 1350kv on 6S. It’s not up and running yet but will report back when I get a chance.
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Old 02-17-2018, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by nismoflip View Post
I also have an ET48.3 with Tekin RX8 and Tekin 4038 1350kv on 6S. It’s not up and running yet but will report back when I get a chance.
This is what I'm running in my MT410 and it's perfect. Zero issues with heat even during the hot TX summer, tons of torque, and with a 17T pinion, crazy top speed. I did add a fan for insurance but it was never that hot before the fan, 150deg on the worst of the hottest days.

Aside from the Tekno steel spur gear and maybe going to all metal on the center diff mounts, I personally don't think it needs too much in the way of upgrades. It's bulletproof if you don't take it off 10ft tall BMX jumps and land wrong or run it into something at full tilt. If you're really going to air it out like that, just keep some stock spares on hand (diffs and cases, a-arms, driveshafts).

I've run maybe 30 packs through mine and I'm jumping and flipping it every session, nothing crazy but I'm definitely not easy on it. Tons of long, fast wheelies, standing back flips, double back flips and giant front flips off a 4ft tall jump in my back yard. I've broken it once. I ran it full speed into a pile of rocks at a local park and broke the front bulkhead, diff case, and an a-arm. There's nothing you're going to upgrade that's going to prevent breakage after a 50mph+ head-on collision into brick though. I'm on my second body but the first one just has a small crack in the front grill area and some rubber marks near the front wheel wells, it's still completely usable.
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Last edited by bootbox; 02-17-2018 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 02-17-2018, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 3500ltz View Post
That long M2C chassis brace look sweet! Do you think this will replace your tower to tower or do you plan on keeping it too? I haven't had anything explode on the truck yet because of the T to T so may leave it on until it does me wrong...but always open to ideas haha
I'm not sure what I'm going to do at the moment. I want to figure out a way to do a support from the towers to the M2C center brace. My body is so heavy I'm scared it will tear up my body mounts if I don't brace the towers somehow.
I'll post back here when I figure out what I'm going to do with it.
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Old 02-17-2018, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Jason.g View Post
I was thinking of the savox SV-1270TG . I'm not too familiar with the brand...specs seemed to fit the torque requirement of the mt350. Anyone have experience with the savox brand in the mt410?

Jason
I run the Savox 1270TG in my MT410, Kraton and now my Senton too.
I love the servo, its smooth and strong. I waterproof them myself and they seem to take a lot of abuse.
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Old 02-18-2018, 09:41 AM
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Talking $ spent on MT410

RC addiction is a brain disorder characterized by compulsive engagement in rewarding stimuli despite adverse consequences
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Old 02-19-2018, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Norse View Post
MT410 owners I have been thinking about getting on of these awesome MT over the past 6months. Think having a truck like this would add some variety besides me just running 10th scale race platforms. Anyhow what KV and can length should I get for running 4s mAinly and possibly 5s. Plan on having fun with this truck but also running it on our large 8th scale track so will be using truggy tire’s onthe track. Need suggesting for KV, must have upgrades. I have seen the M2C alum diffs and full length chassis brace which I will order to incorporate from the get go. Suggestion for diff oil weights when using the M2C diffs F C R .

Other suggestions are welcome and needed as I would like to build this top of the line from the get go.
I have gone all out with builds and the Tekno MT simply does not need it in my opinion. I went with the T-Bone wheelie bar, metal spur gear and aluminum servo horn during the build, since then I added the M2C metal center diff cup for the simple fact that I have lost diff cups to rocks. The truck is a monster when it comes to durability.

For electronics I went with the Monster Mamba X and 1515 2000kv sensored. I love this set up as well, it give me both the torque and top speed that I was looking for, its also water resistant and when your launching it off of snow banks its a great thing to have.

The only thing I am breaking on it are body posts, I seem to go through at least one every time I bring it out but its my fault, I jump it and botch the landings. I cant help myself though, its that good.
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Old 02-19-2018, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ewood810 View Post
I have gone all out with builds and the Tekno MT simply does not need it in my opinion. I went with the T-Bone wheelie bar, metal spur gear and aluminum servo horn during the build, since then I added the M2C metal center diff cup for the simple fact that I have lost diff cups to rocks. The truck is a monster when it comes to durability.

For electronics I went with the Monster Mamba X and 1515 2000kv sensored. I love this set up as well, it give me both the torque and top speed that I was looking for, its also water resistant and when your launching it off of snow banks its a great thing to have.

The only thing I am breaking on it are body posts, I seem to go through at least one every time I bring it out but its my fault, I jump it and botch the landings. I cant help myself though, its that good.
Did you get the hinge pins in the mail last week?
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Old 02-23-2018, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ewood810 View Post
I have gone all out with builds and the Tekno MT simply does not need it in my opinion. I went with the T-Bone wheelie bar, metal spur gear and aluminum servo horn during the build, since then I added the M2C metal center diff cup for the simple fact that I have lost diff cups to rocks. The truck is a monster when it comes to durability.

For electronics I went with the Monster Mamba X and 1515 2000kv sensored. I love this set up as well, it give me both the torque and top speed that I was looking for, its also water resistant and when your launching it off of snow banks its a great thing to have.

The only thing I am breaking on it are body posts, I seem to go through at least one every time I bring it out but its my fault, I jump it and botch the landings. I cant help myself though, its that good.
Sounds like 2000kv is perfa for this truck on 4s which I plan to run. Looking forward to having something else to run wereever I want. Love Racing all my 10th scale platforms however as mentioned I look forward to having something I can take to the skatepark,
Also will have fun running this truck on our local 8th scale dirt track.
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Old 02-24-2018, 01:44 PM
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Anyone know who may be interested in doing a custom MT410 build? I just don’t have enough time to properly dial in a perfa build. I would ship the new MT410 kit, any upgrade or option parts as well as the electronics. If interested please PM me to discuss build fee, timing etc.

Thank you
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Old 02-24-2018, 07:04 PM
  #1617  
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Default MT410 build w/ Pro-line Apocalypse body...

Just completed painting and installing the Pro-line Apocalypse body on MT410. Tekno's website states that body is compatible with the MT410 if you use the extended body mounts. My experience is that it takes a bit of wrangling to get it to work. I ended up trimming the Pro-line body posts...the circular/disk top that the body sits on, because the width of the body at the rooftop is not quite enough. So I "sliced" off about 1/3rd of the disk to make a flush/straight edge that would allow the post to squeeze in and fit.

I also had to forgo the horizontal brace that proline includes with that extended mount kit due to the fact that I had to force a slight bend into the rear vertical pro-line posts to mate up with the roofline of the Apocalypse. Not a major bend, but enough that the horizontal brace would not mate up anymore. For reference, this extended body mount set is Proline part # 6272-00 (which is discontinued, but I found a set on amazon).

Long story short : I like how the body looks and I forked over the extra $24 for a Traxxas Exocage that pairs up with the Apocalypse body.
We shall see how they hold up in use.
Once I get to 10 posts, then I think I can (hope I can!) post some pictures.

If anyone needs close up pics of the mod I did on the extended body mount, let me know.

Just awaiting a Tekin speed controller and motor to arrive to complete the setup!
Hoping for a first test drive next weekend ! :-)

-Jason
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Old 02-25-2018, 10:14 AM
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Default Notes about MT410 build process - online manual

Hi All,

I made a few notes and some things I found helpful for me. Hope this info helps others preparing to build the MT410 (which is a BLAST to build !)

I will start with the manual (which I found to be excellent) :

1). I decided to download and print the online MT410 manual from the teknorc.com website. The good thing about this is it allowed me to keep the nice shipped manual in pristine condition. However, I ran into two small gotchas :
-If you print the manual, be careful of any reduction or changes to the page size. My printer appeared to print normal size, but I later found out it "shrunk to page" and this resulted in my lining up tie-rods to the page and making them smaller than they should have been. Obviously I should have also read the millimeter lengths given as well as lined up to double-check my work.
-The online instruction book (step O-4 page 21) showed six TKR1322 screw placement, and I had all 6 screws in the bag for it - but the chassis did not have the hole for one of the six. It is the rightmost of the six TKR1322 , closest to the rear arm. My chassis did not have that hole in that lower right corner near the arm. I emailed Tekno just to check and their prompt response : "It was revised mid-production. Your manual was printed prior to this change. You're chassis is correct."

I'll post some more later about my build experience.

Jason
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Old 02-25-2018, 10:57 AM
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Default Notes about MT410 build process - diff building notes

when you open the box and are preparing to build, put the diff oil tubes (50k and 100k) upside down.
You won't believe how long you end up spending trying to squeeze that 50 and 100k weight oil out of the tube.
That is litterally the longest part of each diff build !
Helps if the oil is ready to go and not stuck at the bottom of the tube

I thought it was cold in my basement where I was working and I tried to warm up the diff oil...no help.
Just need patience and have gravity help you before you start!

get a small flathead jewler's screwdriver or something similar. not sharp, just something with a small flat tip.
Helps when just positioning the little pins that go with the gear p/n "TKR5150" inside the diff.
Those little suckers can be a challenge to get in position to slide through the hole in the outdrive.
You can use needle nose pliers, but my pliers don't have a good tip and grip and I found the little jeweler's Flathead screwdriver helpful for positioning.

jason
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Old 02-25-2018, 11:06 AM
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Default Notes about MT410 build process - Shocks

Build a quick shock body build holding tray. I took a piece of scrap wood (I had just a leftover 5.5" wide by 8" long piece of 3/4" thick basswood from a project) ,
drilled four holes in using a spade bit the width of the shock bodies (but not so wide that the shock will just fall right through!) , and then screwed in a 5" length piece of 2x4 wood
on either end of this basswood shock "tray" to create an elevated "table". where the shock bodies could dangle in each of the 4 holes.

that way, I could do the "shock building instructions" and allow the shock oil to rest for the 5 minutes suggested while working on the others.


shock caps : Go EASY threading those plastic caps onto the shock bodies. I took my time and took several small start/stop attempts before they went on correctly.
There is an instructional video on youtube by tekno rc called "Tekno RC Shock Building" that is a good aid.

shock cartridge cap TKR6008 : In the shock build steps, you install the o-rings and cap, and then the next step is inserting the rod end.
I did that, but I waited until after I inserted the rod end before fully tightening the shock cartridge cap.
Why ? Because my thinking was that the o-rings would be less likely to tear if they were not yet subject to whatever compression was caused by the tightened shock cartridge cap.
I did also use green slime as the manual suggested.
That seemed to work (ie : no leaks!)

when tightening the lock nut TKR1200 on top of the shock piston, I also tightened the shock shaft rod end at the same time.
What I did was in step L-2 (front) and M-2 (rear shocks) I used the nut driver to hold the lock nut onto the top of the shaft while turning the shock shaft rod end with my right hand.
this allowed the resistence of one side to tighten the other... the lock nut would tighten and then once that was tight, I could continue to turn the rod end while still holding that lock nut tight.
Just be careful to not allow the nut driver to contact or scrape the inside of the shock body. It seemed to work well for me w/o scraping up the shock bodies or shafts.

-Jason
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