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What did I buy?

Old 09-28-2016, 10:05 PM
  #46  
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It's always hard to diagnose tuning issues on the internet. But I personally am a skeptic about air leaks. I guess it can happen, but it's rarely happened to me. All that talk back in the day about sealing backplates etc.. was mostly nonsense(and I got railed for saying it back then too..) THE most important thing about a good tune is that the idle gap is not too big. It needs to be tiny. And you need a decent plug. The Odonnell medium purple from Amain makes tuning these engines much much nicer. Decent fuel is also important, obviously.
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Old 09-29-2016, 02:10 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Overdriven
Single or dual is a matter of preference. In a perfect world I'd have 2 and the servo savers I picked would be perfect. I didn't feel like experimenting and I like tight steering so I went with the single servo mod.

Good call on filling the primer, they do tend to leak over time. There's also a bigger fuel tank that came on the LST2 and later trucks, not to be confused with the XXL2 gas fuel tank though.
My dual servo setup works great. I'll upload a video once I get this thing running. Of course single servo would be the best setup. I bought these Savox servos for my Revo, but I went with
Hitec servos. I got a really good local deal on them. The guy sold 3 Hitec servos for 30 bucks.

Originally Posted by Herrsavage
It's always hard to diagnose tuning issues on the internet. But I personally am a skeptic about air leaks. I guess it can happen, but it's rarely happened to me. All that talk back in the day about sealing backplates etc.. was mostly nonsense(and I got railed for saying it back then too..) THE most important thing about a good tune is that the idle gap is not too big. It needs to be tiny. And you need a decent plug. The Odonnell medium purple from Amain makes tuning these engines much much nicer. Decent fuel is also important, obviously.
On my Revo I just changed the o-rings and bearings and all was good. I was told to seal the backplate with sealant, but I didn't find it necessary. With the LOSR2123 carb it's like a beast.
Easy to tune.

I also changed the backplate o-ring on the LST. The air bubbles in the fuel line indicates that there is an air leak somewhere. The o-ring on the cap is sealing fine.
Only thing I can think is the primer.
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Old 09-29-2016, 03:14 AM
  #48  
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Definitely a good move to seal the primer on the tank. It's rather useless anyway, and just another place leaking can occur..that and the 'fuel filter' in the fuel line if you still have one.
the 454 does like to be run pretty rich as far as I remember (not necessarily saying you might be running a lean tune, just throwing it out there..)
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:46 AM
  #49  
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check the header for cracks as well, mine had like 3 hairline cracks in it.
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Old 09-30-2016, 03:17 PM
  #50  
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Yeah I kept getting people telling me i needed to disassemble and seal my brand new k4.6 in my Savage when I was having issues. Turned out it was just a slightly loose needle valve on the crankcase and also my glow battery was too weak to be reliable.
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Old 10-02-2016, 12:30 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by FLDan
Definitely a good move to seal the primer on the tank. It's rather useless anyway, and just another place leaking can occur..that and the 'fuel filter' in the fuel line if you still have one.
the 454 does like to be run pretty rich as far as I remember (not necessarily saying you might be running a lean tune, just throwing it out there..)
I removed the fuel filter too. It runs pretty rich when the tank is full. I still have bubbles in the fuel line. I don't think that's normal, right?

Originally Posted by chipmonk
check the header for cracks as well, mine had like 3 hairline cracks in it.
I checked the header. I couldn't see any cracks on it. Was yours cracked because of a crash or heat?

Originally Posted by seeingeyegod
Yeah I kept getting people telling me i needed to disassemble and seal my brand new k4.6 in my Savage when I was having issues. Turned out it was just a slightly loose needle valve on the crankcase and also my glow battery was too weak to be reliable.
That happened with me too when my Revo did not want to idle. And it was cutting out while it was running. Turned out the FastEddy rear bearing I installed after a 1 gallon fuel just gave up.

Little update on the MT. After filling the primer I still have bubbles in the fuel line. Is that normal? It runs better, but I'm still not statisfield.

Turned out my slipper clutch needs a new thrust bearing and pads. Someone took it apart and put it back together incorrectly.
They just installed one plate between the pads.

I just find out the front driveshaft pin is broken also one of the rear drive pin.

I got some parts for my truck and more is coming on the next week.



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Old 10-02-2016, 01:36 PM
  #52  
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Depends on how much air is getting into the fuel line. A few little bubbles isn't anything I'd be overly concerned with. You could maybe try a little grease on the o ring in the fuel cap and see if it makes any difference. I've had that o ring leak a little, even though it still looks good. Are you able to post any vid of her running?
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Old 10-03-2016, 04:46 PM
  #53  
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Yes, I'll make a video. I'm waiting for few parts to come so I can put the MT together.

I wanna move to FL It's getting cold here and the winter is coming.
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Old 10-03-2016, 07:54 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by nitry
Yes, I'll make a video. I'm waiting for few parts to come so I can put the MT together.

I wanna move to FL It's getting cold here and the winter is coming.
Fall/ Winter is actually prime racing time here. Weather is nice when it's dry. Summer is just too freakin' hot and humid to do much of anything outside after about 9 A.M. Wouldn't trade it for the long winters up north though.
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Old 10-12-2016, 03:17 PM
  #55  
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Little Update on my MT. I have been busy with work so I don't really have time to work on my Losi.
I received everything for the slipper clutch. I got good deal on the MIP parts. The Rear Diff was HD diff someone already upgraded it. So I just changed the o-ring/seal and filled up with 50K fluid. The front diff was the original LST diff. I got all the parts to upgrade it to HD. Filled with 30K fluid.







+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=061ZodRk_jc

For some reason the embedded youtube video doesn't show up here for me.

Well, I'm running now with stock pipe and with LRP carb. You can see that in the video sometimes the Truck runs really
rich and sometimes it runs leaner. The video quality isn't good. I hate to make videos with my DSLR. So sorry about that.
At 0:50 you can hear the engine sounds different and it actually runs better. Also at 1:16.
My center diff came apart also one of the wheel hex got melted at the end.

Last edited by nitry; 10-12-2016 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 10-27-2016, 07:53 AM
  #56  
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I retuned my Losi LST and now it runs really strong. I love it.
I loctited every screw and no more problem with it. Unfortunately the winter is here, so I can't use it anymore.

What's the best engine temperature for these 454 engines?
My Revo runs between 250-280F. That's completely normal for that engine.
The Losi runs between 190-220F is that ok? I'm not tuning for temperature just want to know what's a reasonable temperature for these engines. I couldn't make another video from the Losi.
I made one from my Revo if anyone interested.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUPi-wVQMsg
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Old 10-27-2016, 10:24 AM
  #57  
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190-220, maybe 230 is spot on.. Lot of variables in nitro though. Tune, fuel, plug, surface, outside temps, etc...
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Old 10-27-2016, 01:41 PM
  #58  
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Well, I'm in the safe zone then.

Do you think I can use my MT in the snow? It's snowing like crazy here.

I'd like to upgrade the main chassis. Which one is better the HD chassis or the Carbon fiber one?
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Old 10-27-2016, 09:15 PM
  #59  
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I wouldn't bother, personally. But if you have money buring a hole in your pocket.. Not sure which is "better"..

As for snow, go for it.. That said, in my experience, on no RC are the servos more likely to die from getting wet as on the LST's. I don't know if it's the servos themselves, or the fact that they're on the bottom, or what. AND it's a HUGE PIA to replace them... If you really want to do it, try to protect your servos. You can google how to do that. I've heard there's spray stuff, or balloons, or whatever. Never messed with it myself..
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Old 10-28-2016, 07:25 AM
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For the chassis, my opinion is to go carbon fiber, lighter is better. The Losi HD chassis plate is supposedly a bit stiffer than stock and is hard anodized. I don't think the stock chassis plate needs to be any stiffer. The LST2 and later model aftershocks do have redesigned plastic side rails that are stronger than the first generation LST1 units though.

I've ran nitros in snow with no issues. I just cut down a toilet paper tube so it covered a couple fins on the heatsink, and made a deflector so the air filter wouldn't get blasted by snow kicked up from the tires. Going a heat range higher on the glow plug seemed to help one of my engines run a little better in the really cold weather.

Herrsavage does raise a valid concern about water and servos. Never had any issue with it myself but never ran JR servos in the snow either. A dab of grease on the servo output (pop off the servo savers/horn) solves most problems with water getting in the servo.
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