Maikumizu

Emaxx 3908:
Dynamite Fuze 130a ESC
Hobbystar 1/8th 2650kv
2x Solar D772 at 8v
Kershaw replica forward motor mount
RPM towers, body mounts
Trackstar TS4G w/Gyro RX


New:
Traxxas:
Chassis, drag link, servo horns, skid plates, wheelie bar

RPM: True Track rear, front arms, bulkheads, skid guards

Maikumizu

Pictures since I can't Hotlink

FunnieKid

Nice truck, but why do you use the front motor mount anyways? The topkick body is always cool, did you use the regular size or the extra long? Mine also hangs off on the rear a bit.

Maikumizu

I got the mount in a parts bag and the stock one that came with my roller was bent.

It puts the weight of the motor over the front axle for better turning/less wheelies


I accidentally ordered the larger body so it's about 2" too long but with the wheelie bar it seems okay size wise.

FunnieKid

What are your future plans for the truck then? I personly will atempt to shim the steering link because right now, there is some play. I will also polish my front bumper because it is really scratched up. I dont know if I can recommend people getting the alloy bumpers fropm traxxas to the e-maxx. They look cool, but they look horrible once scratched up hehe. Share your ideas pls.

Maikumizu

Future plans are to upgrade the diffs and install the longer outdrives since I keep losing axles.

I'm probably avoiding aluminum entirely

mudbug85603

You can use Traxxas part # 5153R for longer drive cups. I would rather recommend a set of MIP axles and do away with the drive cups altogether. Not to mention have a much better and stronger axle also.

For diff upgrades I highly recommend the 8th scale conversion. Do this one time and be done with it. The only time you'll have to crack your diff cases open is to do normal routine maintenance.

You can dump all kinds of money into aftermarket parts for the E Maxx diffs. I don't care what you use to build those stock diffs with they are junk. The bearings are too small and the metal they use for the gears isn't strong enough. In other words they will never be right and you will waste your money time and time again. Even if you do find a good set of of spider, ring, and pinion gears. The bearings are too small to handle the load put on them from the brushless motors and the weight of the truck.

Maikumizu

I've picked up the extended cups for now. The roller came with the Traxxas axles so I figure I'll salvage them for

mudbug85603

[QUOTE=Maikumizu;14629420]I've picked up the extended cups for now. The roller came with the Traxxas axles so I figure I'll salvage them for

FunnieKid

I can also recommend some avid bearings, specialy on the pinion gear. I dont think helical gears are much stronger than the stock ones. The reason the e-maxx diffs tend to be "weak" is due to the flex of the plastic diff case and cup. But shimming and new bearings definatley help eliminating two weakspots at least. And also throttle controll and not too tight slipper. It has alot to do with the driving style that determine how far you can get with the driveline.

I run only on 6s with a truck that weight around 12.5 lbs and both my diffs and driveshafts has been holding up to this point. But I dont do silly stuff like standing backflips or mashing the throttle all time. Even when doing wheelies, I try to roll on the trottle so to say. If you do this, along with shimming and not too tight slipper the driveline will hold up.

chipmonk

iTrader: (3)

I bought some brand new traxxas steel axles and blew them apart on the first throttle pull... literally the first one. $60 down the drain. Go mip.

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

Everything this guy said. Helical isn't going to help much, the amount of tooth engagement isn't significantly higher (if at all and there's more load on pinion bearings with helical) and the diameter is still smaller than 1/8. It's not worth dumping $ into aluminum outer diff cases, gears, cups, etc. Just shim the stockers, try rolling into the throttle more and save for a 1/8 conversion. Personally I think everyone should have a brushless Maxx and try to not blow the drivetrain. Teaches you to roll on the throttle and not shock the drivetrain while still doing wheelies and breaking the tires loose. Once you learn that throttle control, sell the money pit! Lol. Seriously, it's way too easy to sink way too much into them with all the stuff that's out there for them.

Never had Maxx diffs on brushless (went straight to 1/8) but did on my ERevo. After shimming the pinion only they held up well on 6s but I don't do standing backflips and I roll on the throttle. I did blow a rear diff, but it was an old nitro diff that I neglected, the new diff shimmed didn't complain. The plastic sliders did, the holes for the metal universal balls turned into ovals.

Maikumizu

And after I finished the lights I decided I really prefer the erevo over the maxx so it's getting sold :c

FunnieKid

I have had some missfurtune with my body lately. Not only did I spill some acetone on the inside of the body ruining the paint on one suide, the front was also badly cracked so I had to reinforce it with zip ties. I am suprized since I havent had any high speed crashes. I suspect it is due to my plastic guards I put on the body as reinforcement, it must have twisted the body in a funny way. I removed my plastic guards for the moment since I dont know what negative impact they have. I also powered the body, maybe it is bad if the body sits too high on the chassis while crashing. Ususaly proline topkick bodies are known to be very durable, but I havent experianced that. I must have done something wrong.

maxx_22

iTrader: (5)

I've had really good luck with my Traxxas Shafts, I don't run 6S though, only 4S. How are the Floureon lipos ? I've seen hundreds of them for sale on Ebay, but not many reviews or feedback on them? do they balance out well and deliver a nice punch ?