Best brushless monster truck for @ $700
#196
And yes , I could have had my rig by now. But I'm in no rush. I much prefer to get as educated as possible before dropping nearly a grand on something I'm not very familiar with. And to be honest , I find doing the research and talking to people here on the forums really fun. I like chatting with the guys who have first hand experience. Different thoughts and opinions are helpful.
Sorry Herrsavage , I thought you were asking me that question.
#197
Get something brand new. Don't go used.
#198
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
That's the truth. I bought a brand new VW. Somebody said, "You might as well bought a Mercedes." He was talking about repairs, no matter what, it's gonna cost you in repairs.Granted a Bugatti wheel costs $10k, a Viper clamshell at $18k, and so on. You're going to pay somewhere.
Get something brand new. Don't go used.
Get something brand new. Don't go used.
the reputation of the seller here is the most important thing really .
#199
Tech Champion
With race kits used can make sense. You can get spares thrown in, tires, maybe a servo etc, and really save. There's the principle though, and it's not really without risk. Still, buying a kit new with all the bits is just really expensive. I would never pay full price for a new kit..
#200
That's the truth. I bought a brand new VW. Somebody said, "You might as well bought a Mercedes." He was talking about repairs, no matter what, it's gonna cost you in repairs.Granted a Bugatti wheel costs $10k, a Viper clamshell at $18k, and so on. You're going to pay somewhere.
Get something brand new. Don't go used.
Get something brand new. Don't go used.
#201
Tech Master
I def want brand new. I would much rather deal with a higher price tag and knowing it's brand new than getting a used RC that I'm unsure of just because it's less expensive. But I understand that buying a used rig from a reputable seller (esp a racer who raced a vehicle only once or twice) can get you a good vehicle at a good price.
Or go crazy like me and do a ground up fully custom build out of a mixed bag of aftermarket parts
I must admit, much of what draws me to the Hobby is the customization, the designing your own truck out of aftermarket parts.
#202
Rac3rx , that looks great. You built that from just a mixed bag of parts from EBay ? You definitely have some skill there. And what does "roller" mean ?
Also , it seems that a good set of quality tools should be purchased soon after (or along with) buying a new RC.
Also , it seems that a good set of quality tools should be purchased soon after (or along with) buying a new RC.
Last edited by DeathWish9; 01-08-2016 at 07:33 PM.
#203
Tech Master
A Roller is a RTR stripped of its engine, electronics, wheels & body. Just the Chassis. You then get the engine, electronics, wheels and body you want.
A Truck like the Savage is modular, you could buy each module.
Most kits are parted up on eBay, shop around though I find deals all over.
The Black truck is a used RTR I bought then modified a bunch. The Silver and Blue truck is built from parts I got from all over the place not just ebay, no kit, ground up built with aftermarket parts. That's a money pit truck, but I just love building it.
#204
Tech Champion
I absolutely recommend getting good tools. Especially if you're going to build a kit..
I highly recommend something similar to the Bosch Ixo and a 2mm and 2.5mm bit for it. I couldn't live in RC without mine. One of the most useful things you can have for RC, and it's even useful around the house as well.
In addition to that you definitely need a decent 2mm and 2.5mm hex driver. The mini drill is only for the basic work, the fine tightening you should do by hand.
(Those bits are non-metric for Losi. You want 2mm and 2.5mm.. Doesn't have to be Hudy either..)
I highly recommend something similar to the Bosch Ixo and a 2mm and 2.5mm bit for it. I couldn't live in RC without mine. One of the most useful things you can have for RC, and it's even useful around the house as well.
In addition to that you definitely need a decent 2mm and 2.5mm hex driver. The mini drill is only for the basic work, the fine tightening you should do by hand.
(Those bits are non-metric for Losi. You want 2mm and 2.5mm.. Doesn't have to be Hudy either..)
Last edited by Herrsavage; 01-09-2016 at 01:31 AM.
#205
Tech Master
I should of mentioned the right tools make all the difference. The stuff you get with RTRs will round out quick decent Hex are a must.
#206
That little Bosch looks perfect for RC work. And 2mm and 2.5mm bits and hex drivers , noted. You guys must have quite a wide assortment of tools after being in RC a for so long.
Another question , you mentioned that the Savage is "modular". What exactly does that mean ? Is modular a pro or con ?
Is the reason for companies not having high end RTR's available (top of the line motor , ESC , servo , radio etc) because of high cost ? Or lack of interest ?
Another question , you mentioned that the Savage is "modular". What exactly does that mean ? Is modular a pro or con ?
Is the reason for companies not having high end RTR's available (top of the line motor , ESC , servo , radio etc) because of high cost ? Or lack of interest ?
#207
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
That little Bosch looks perfect for RC work. And 2mm and 2.5mm bits and hex drivers , noted. You guys must have quite a wide assortment of tools after being in RC a for so long.
Another question , you mentioned that the Savage is "modular". What exactly does that mean ? Is modular a pro or con ?
Is the reason for companies not having high end RTR's available (top of the line motor , ESC , servo , radio etc) because of high cost ? Or lack of interest ?
Another question , you mentioned that the Savage is "modular". What exactly does that mean ? Is modular a pro or con ?
Is the reason for companies not having high end RTR's available (top of the line motor , ESC , servo , radio etc) because of high cost ? Or lack of interest ?
Modular may not be the best word for what he was trying to describe, compatible maybe? With rc vehicles you can generally unbolt the whole front and rear suspension from the chassis. You can then bolt this onto a aftermarket or new stock chassis that was designed for that vehicle. A Traxxas Maxx truck is a perfect example of this, unbolt the front and rear bulkheads and swap in a new chassis. The Maxx is also a perfect example of how rc upgrades are generally formulated, different, stronger materials, but all stock mounting points. You can go anywhere from just a few upgrades to a completely aftermarket Maxx and (with very few exceptions) never have a compatibility issue. You can run RPM arms on stock bulkheads or aftermarket, aftermarket bulks with stock arms, etc.
Which leads me to another important note about aftermarket parts. So with a very few notable exceptions, aftermarket parts very rarely alter geometry or mounting points. This means they don't alter the actual performance of the vehicle, just enhance durability and/or appearance. There are some aftermarket chassis for some vehicles that alter the positions of components to change the handling characteristics, RPM does have their true track system that alters rear suspension geometry a bit. But by and large aftermarket parts are for durability and/or appearance. Even aftermarket shocks don't always improve performance, tuning shocks (spring and fluid weights) does that. Aftermarket shocks can be more durable and smoother in their action though.
#208
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
Then there's preference. Those willing to spend more for the higher end electronics tend to be the experienced hobbyists who have developed their own preferences when it comes to the brands they use and trust. But preferences change too. Back to servos, I used to be a JR guy. I tried one, liked it which led to a couple more. Then I got a used Hitec and have been a Hitec guy ever since.
And of course cost. Put a race kit that's RTR with top of the line electronics on display at a hobby shop with a $1k+ price tag and I'm sure you'll scare a few people out of the store. Hell if people knew how much rc would cost them in broken parts, eventual upgrades and such I'm sure a few wouldn't get into it to begin with.
#209
That makes sense. It seems just about any hobby these days gets pretty expensive when you get into it and decide to buy the higher quality equipment. In that regard ,I can see the benefit (for me) to start off in RC with a RTR because I can see how I like the hobby. And as I level up , I get better vehicles , better electronics , better radio etc and I'd be able to see and appreciate the difference between entry level and high end.
But I think I want the higher end stuff now. So I'll prob just spend the money and get something "upper class".
But I think I want the higher end stuff now. So I'll prob just spend the money and get something "upper class".
#210
Tech Fanatic
That makes sense. It seems just about any hobby these days gets pretty expensive when you get into it and decide to buy the higher quality equipment. In that regard ,I can see the benefit (for me) to start off in RC with a RTR because I can see how I like the hobby. And as I level up , I get better vehicles , better electronics , better radio etc and I'd be able to see and appreciate the difference between entry level and high end.
But I think I want the higher end stuff now. So I'll prob just spend the money and get something "upper class".
But I think I want the higher end stuff now. So I'll prob just spend the money and get something "upper class".