Build Complete: Traxxas Stampede 4x4, wet-weather edition
#31
If RPM makes A-arms that work with the shock guards and have less slop, then I might get those. The stock A-arms are plenty durable, but they've developed slop over time and fixing that will be my next project for this vehicle. Other than that, the truck works great as-is and I don't see any reason to buy upgrades for it "just because".
Sleeving the headlight and taillight wires might be a good idea, at least where they go past the main gearbox, but I'd have to break the superglue holding the taillights in the light buckets in order to sleeve them, and I don't want to go through that much trouble when the wires have done a good job of staying out of the gears thus far.
I used RCScrewz stainless screws. No idea if they're a good brand or not, but I haven't broken any, even when I accidentally sent my 4Pede crashing 10 feet down a storm drain.
All commercially-available sealed ball bearings are packed in grease (including Traxxas bearings), unless you specifically order ones that have never been greased (usually for scientific equipment). The grease inside the bearings works its way out over time, especially if you spray them with WD40 which dissolves grease, and running them in wet conditions accelerates the loss of grease as well. I started using Boca Yellow Seals because even premium non-stainless bearings rusted, and it only takes a tiny amount of rust to make a bearing run rough.
Sleeving the headlight and taillight wires might be a good idea, at least where they go past the main gearbox, but I'd have to break the superglue holding the taillights in the light buckets in order to sleeve them, and I don't want to go through that much trouble when the wires have done a good job of staying out of the gears thus far.
I used RCScrewz stainless screws. No idea if they're a good brand or not, but I haven't broken any, even when I accidentally sent my 4Pede crashing 10 feet down a storm drain.
All commercially-available sealed ball bearings are packed in grease (including Traxxas bearings), unless you specifically order ones that have never been greased (usually for scientific equipment). The grease inside the bearings works its way out over time, especially if you spray them with WD40 which dissolves grease, and running them in wet conditions accelerates the loss of grease as well. I started using Boca Yellow Seals because even premium non-stainless bearings rusted, and it only takes a tiny amount of rust to make a bearing run rough.
#32
Tech Rookie
Hey. Just wondering what the cost of something like this would be if you had to start from scratch? ball park is ok.
#34
If RPM makes A-arms that work with the shock guards and have less slop, then I might get those. The stock A-arms are plenty durable, but they've developed slop over time and fixing that will be my next project for this vehicle. Other than that, the truck works great as-is and I don't see any reason to buy upgrades for it "just because".
Sleeving the headlight and taillight wires might be a good idea, at least where they go past the main gearbox, but I'd have to break the superglue holding the taillights in the light buckets in order to sleeve them, and I don't want to go through that much trouble when the wires have done a good job of staying out of the gears thus far.
I used RCScrewz stainless screws. No idea if they're a good brand or not, but I haven't broken any, even when I accidentally sent my 4Pede crashing 10 feet down a storm drain.
All commercially-available sealed ball bearings are packed in grease (including Traxxas bearings), unless you specifically order ones that have never been greased (usually for scientific equipment). The grease inside the bearings works its way out over time, especially if you spray them with WD40 which dissolves grease, and running them in wet conditions accelerates the loss of grease as well. I started using Boca Yellow Seals because even premium non-stainless bearings rusted, and it only takes a tiny amount of rust to make a bearing run rough.
Sleeving the headlight and taillight wires might be a good idea, at least where they go past the main gearbox, but I'd have to break the superglue holding the taillights in the light buckets in order to sleeve them, and I don't want to go through that much trouble when the wires have done a good job of staying out of the gears thus far.
I used RCScrewz stainless screws. No idea if they're a good brand or not, but I haven't broken any, even when I accidentally sent my 4Pede crashing 10 feet down a storm drain.
All commercially-available sealed ball bearings are packed in grease (including Traxxas bearings), unless you specifically order ones that have never been greased (usually for scientific equipment). The grease inside the bearings works its way out over time, especially if you spray them with WD40 which dissolves grease, and running them in wet conditions accelerates the loss of grease as well. I started using Boca Yellow Seals because even premium non-stainless bearings rusted, and it only takes a tiny amount of rust to make a bearing run rough.
#35
I think you can do it for less than the price of a new pede if you start off with a used roller. No reason to get something with electronics that you'll end up replacing anyway. Of course this doesn't include the $100 bearings...hahaha. Gold plating is also extra!