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Old 05-30-2015, 10:22 PM   #1
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Default Kyosho Mad Force Kruiser 2.0 Nitro - I think I blew my engine (seized) ! Help !

Hello all. Im on my second gallon and I think I blew the engine today. I was having fun on my street doing full throttle runs when all of sudden the engine just shut off. Engine is KE25

Here are my issues:
- Flywheel wont move
- When on the ground, car will move forward but not backwards
- Clutch bell and 3 speed spurs will move but get stuck after a few inches
- Pull start is stuck
- I cant move the flywheel at all

Is my engine blown? Maybe the con rod? I have yet to take it apart and look but dam only 2 gallons through this thing. I took the glow plug off and cant see the piston move, probably because I cant move the flywheel or pull starter.

What do guys think? Also, does Kyosho have a warranty on their engines? I got the car a little over a month ago. Will I void warranty if I open up the engine to take a look?

Other than that, this car has been blast! Im surprised the engine is the first thing that broke? I havent broke a damn thing on this car yet -very solid and durable! I've tumbled it at full speed. Ive also tumbled it all the way down a steep 40 foot cliff -still no breakage at all. Thanks guys! Help!

Last edited by c00lguy; 05-30-2015 at 10:42 PM.
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Old 05-31-2015, 03:32 AM   #2
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Ok so I took the engine apart and the rod is broken. I also found pieces of metal from the rod in the engine. Piston head is also cracked with metal pieces in the engine. Wonder what I did wrong? My temps were never above 220.

Is this something Kyosho will cover under warranty? I wonder if my Engine was defective or if Kyosho engines just suck? Engine is only on its 2nd gallon (1 3/4 gallons to be exact). Anyone else have this issue? Thanks.
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Old 05-31-2015, 03:42 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by c00lguy View Post
Hello all. Im on my second gallon and I think I blew the engine today. I was having fun on my street doing full throttle runs when all of sudden the engine just shut off. Engine is KE25

Here are my issues:
- Flywheel wont move
- When on the ground, car will move forward but not backwards
- Clutch bell and 3 speed spurs will move but get stuck after a few inches
- Pull start is stuck
- I cant move the flywheel at all

Is my engine blown? Maybe the con rod? I have yet to take it apart and look but dam only 2 gallons through this thing. I took the glow plug off and cant see the piston move, probably because I cant move the flywheel or pull starter.

What do guys think? Also, does Kyosho have a warranty on their engines? I got the car a little over a month ago. Will I void warranty if I open up the engine to take a look?

Other than that, this car has been blast! Im surprised the engine is the first thing that broke? I havent broke a damn thing on this car yet -very solid and durable! I've tumbled it at full speed. Ive also tumbled it all the way down a steep 40 foot cliff -still no breakage at all. Thanks guys! Help!
hi,

new nitro engines are very delicate, the connecting rod 25 ke of mad kruiser force is the same as kyosho GX21-bk 3,5cc

1: the running of micro-motors must be run from the experts.

greetings
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Old 05-31-2015, 09:24 AM   #4
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Hello. Thanks for the reply. The engine wasn't new. The engine had about 2 gallons through it. Engine was also broken in properly.

Does anyone know if kyosho will cover this under warranty? The whole car is about a month old. Or am I screwed and just get a new rod or motor?
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Old 05-31-2015, 11:18 AM   #5
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Did the rod break where it connects to the crank?
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Old 05-31-2015, 11:41 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by c00lguy View Post
Hello. Thanks for the reply. The engine wasn't new. The engine had about 2 gallons through it. Engine was also broken in properly.

Does anyone know if kyosho will cover this under warranty? The whole car is about a month old. Or am I screwed and just get a new rod or motor?
hi,

RTR with engines for about 3-4 liters you have to go (slowly) at full throttle for a short time, kyosho replaces the engine only for a manufacturing defect.

maintenance micromotor:

kyosho supplied by two accessories for the carburetor, blue x running in and colored metal to be used permanently.

turn off the model plugging the muffler with a special screwdriver before the nitro in the tank runs out.

engine off and disconnect the cold silicone tubing from the carburetor, remove the spark plug, remove the carburetor, insert the clean rags in the holes not to dirty, overthrow the model to release the nitro, the carburetor, fuel tank and micromotor

manually position the piston at BDC bottom dead center and put a few drops of oil, use the same procedure in the hole of the crankcase rides in the carburetor This prevents the engine rugginire dle

before the starting of the engine put a few drops of nitro, in the spark plug hole and the hole in the crankcase rides in the carburetor, to facilitate starting of the engine, it is imperative to seek help from an experienced person.

Greetings.
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Old 05-31-2015, 04:37 PM   #7
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Did the rod break where it connects to the crank?
Hello thanks. Yes the rod broke where it connects to the crank. Also, the piston head is cracked. Not sure what I did wrong but I thought these KE25s were bullet proof. I have a KE21r in my inferno Neo it's still going strong with 10 gallons through it so far. Damn I guess now I have to buy a new motor.

My next question is about tools. Are the flywheel tool and clutch tool a standard size? Or is there a specific size I need to get? Thanks!
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Old 05-31-2015, 05:59 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by marco70 View Post
hi,

RTR with engines for about 3-4 liters you have to go (slowly) at full throttle for a short time, kyosho replaces the engine only for a manufacturing defect.

maintenance micromotor:

kyosho supplied by two accessories for the carburetor, blue x running in and colored metal to be used permanently.

turn off the model plugging the muffler with a special screwdriver before the nitro in the tank runs out.

engine off and disconnect the cold silicone tubing from the carburetor, remove the spark plug, remove the carburetor, insert the clean rags in the holes not to dirty, overthrow the model to release the nitro, the carburetor, fuel tank and micromotor

manually position the piston at BDC bottom dead center and put a few drops of oil, use the same procedure in the hole of the crankcase rides in the carburetor This prevents the engine rugginire dle

before the starting of the engine put a few drops of nitro, in the spark plug hole and the hole in the crankcase rides in the carburetor, to facilitate starting of the engine, it is imperative to seek help from an experienced person.

Greetings.
I'm not sure what language this guy is speaking, but these engines can be hit n miss. The rpms are ran high, so any small defect it could have had, came to the surface.
Also, I know from time to time we all get a bit brave and might attempt leaning the main mixture screw in for that last little bit of power. However, if ran too lean for an extended amount of time, it will caveat. Meaning, what you are describing does sound like a lean condition was present at the time. A split or cracked piston is usually evidence of extreme amounts of detonation (lean air/ fuel mixture).
Then again, the destruction of the connecting rod could have also caused the damage. If the crankshaft isn't damaged, you might be able to get away with replacing the rod, piston and sleeve. Check to see if the crankshaft spins freely without anything attached to it. Then assess your damages and go from there. If the crank is bent, then you might as well replace the engine.
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Old 05-31-2015, 10:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COP4 View Post
I'm not sure what language this guy is speaking, but these engines can be hit n miss. The rpms are ran high, so any small defect it could have had, came to the surface.
Also, I know from time to time we all get a bit brave and might attempt leaning the main mixture screw in for that last little bit of power. However, if ran too lean for an extended amount of time, it will caveat. Meaning, what you are describing does sound like a lean condition was present at the time. A split or cracked piston is usually evidence of extreme amounts of detonation (lean air/ fuel mixture).
Then again, the destruction of the connecting rod could have also caused the damage. If the crankshaft isn't damaged, you might be able to get away with replacing the rod, piston and sleeve. Check to see if the crankshaft spins freely without anything attached to it. Then assess your damages and go from there. If the crank is bent, then you might as well replace the engine.
exact,

I have had seven micromotors kyosho GX21-bk, never had reliability problems with nitro, 10% 16%

manufacturers recommend using models RTR nitro, 20% 25% to help beginners to turn the micromotor

high% nitromethane might cause reliability problems (the running of the micromotor is essential and should be done by experts

greetings
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Old 06-01-2015, 10:10 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by COP4 View Post
I'm not sure what language this guy is speaking, but these engines can be hit n miss. The rpms are ran high, so any small defect it could have had, came to the surface.
Also, I know from time to time we all get a bit brave and might attempt leaning the main mixture screw in for that last little bit of power. However, if ran too lean for an extended amount of time, it will caveat. Meaning, what you are describing does sound like a lean condition was present at the time. A split or cracked piston is usually evidence of extreme amounts of detonation (lean air/ fuel mixture).
Then again, the destruction of the connecting rod could have also caused the damage. If the crankshaft isn't damaged, you might be able to get away with replacing the rod, piston and sleeve. Check to see if the crankshaft spins freely without anything attached to it. Then assess your damages and go from there. If the crank is bent, then you might as well replace the engine.
Hello thanks for the reply. Yea I think I was a little on the too lean side .

Is there a way to tell if the main shaft is bent? The flywheel and shaft spin freely. I eye balled it and it seems straight. Do you think I should replace the piston and rod? Or just get a new motor. Luckily these motors aren't that much.

I need help identifying a part. When I took the motor apart this piece fell out and I have no clue where it goes lol. I checked the engine manual and can't find the part which makes me wonder if this part is even part of the engine. Can't think of anywhere else it would go though. Thanks!!

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Old 06-01-2015, 10:51 PM   #11
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Can any ole' 21-30 big block engine go in this truck, or does it have some weird Kyosho-specific mounting arrangement? Can you alter the gearing?
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:52 PM   #12
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deleted photographs

Last edited by marco70; 06-03-2015 at 06:08 AM.
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Old 06-03-2015, 05:57 AM   #13
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Can any ole' 21-30 big block engine go in this truck, or does it have some weird Kyosho-specific mounting arrangement? Can you alter the gearing?
You can use! the KE25 is already too powerful for this vehicle.


Last edited by marco70; 06-03-2015 at 06:09 AM.
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Old 06-04-2015, 08:41 PM   #14
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You can use! the KE25 is already too powerful for this vehicle.
That thing has to be brand new! Its soo clean. That doesnt look like the most recent generation of the mad force. Your switch is on top.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:34 PM   #15
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That thing has to be brand new! Its soo clean. That doesnt look like the most recent generation of the mad force. Your switch is on top.
yes,

is an old photograph of my mad force kruiser kt 200 KE25, the mad force kruiser 2.0 is better.
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