best steering upgrade for taxx?
#1
best steering upgrade for taxx?
I have a stock 2.5 tmaxx. Does anyone have a link to a website where I can get a steering linkage upgrade? I put a high torque servo in it and the wheels still barley turn.
#2
Which servo are you using?
Every servo claims high torque, its a meaningless descriptor when you can get a high torque servo with 50oz or 500oz.
Steering rack is unlikely to be the problem.
1) too weak of a servo
2) binding
3) too heavy of tires
4) servo not getting enough power
5) dual rates (d/r on the remote)
To check for binding..disengage linkage from servo and see if wheels turn freely with no sticking.
If your tires are too heavy then you wont be able to turn them from a standstill no matter what. You would need to be moving to turn them.
Your servo should be receiving 6v. Make sure the receiver battery is in good condition and charged.
If the dual rate settings are turned down it will feel like the servo barely works.
Ebay is the place to buy parts, but an aluminum steering rack will not change things.
Every servo claims high torque, its a meaningless descriptor when you can get a high torque servo with 50oz or 500oz.
Steering rack is unlikely to be the problem.
1) too weak of a servo
2) binding
3) too heavy of tires
4) servo not getting enough power
5) dual rates (d/r on the remote)
To check for binding..disengage linkage from servo and see if wheels turn freely with no sticking.
If your tires are too heavy then you wont be able to turn them from a standstill no matter what. You would need to be moving to turn them.
Your servo should be receiving 6v. Make sure the receiver battery is in good condition and charged.
If the dual rate settings are turned down it will feel like the servo barely works.
Ebay is the place to buy parts, but an aluminum steering rack will not change things.
#4
Yup/\/\ If I remember right, the white one is weak, the spring is weak, allowing it to not move when the servo moves. Some look for the black ones, their suppose to have a better spring in them. I don't know if thats fact or not but worth a shot.
#5
Are you running the stock AA battery box in the truck? If so you will free up some servo power from upgrading to a 6.0 volt receiver pack. The NiMH packs are pretty cheap and can be bought with a wall charger, too. The hump style packs will fit in the stock battery box if I remember correctly. Just google receiver hump pack and it'll come up with a whole bunch of different options. I recently put one in my truck, and while I haven't driven it yet, the servos are a lot more powerful and much faster than they were on the AA battery box. The AA set up is only 4.8 volts.
As stated above, check your linkages and servo saver, those older style white savers usually last quite awhile but I've had the springs in them break a few times because they rust over time. You can upgrade to an aluminum steering set up with bearings in it to free up the servo a bit more too. The stock set up has nylon bushings, those can be lubed with grease as well which will help a bit. I'm pretty sure you can upgrade the servo saver itself as well as the linkage, but I'm not sure on that.
What servo exactly are you using now for steering? The torque and speed figures are what's important to know. As MaxxGabriel said, there is a very wide range of "high torque" servos on the market. For example, I have an old Cirrus CS 60MG in my HPI Rush which is called high torque, but only has 60 oz-in of torque @ 4.8 volts, but is high torque for a little stadium truck. The servo in my Maxx now is a Cirrus CDS 751MG, also called high torque but has 153 oz-in of torque @ 4.8 volts. One I hear recommended a lot for trucks is the Savox SC-0251. That one has 180 oz-in of torque @ 4.8 volts, 222 oz-in @ 6.0 volts. They cost about $40 and have ball bearings and metal gears, which is a must have in a steering servo. In my experience, bushing style servos with plastic gears are not only slower, the gears will strip out eventually as well. There are others out there with similar specs, but you'll want something above 150 oz-in of turque for a monster truck for sure. More torque is definitely better here so look around for some deals on Ebay.
The last option that could work is to upgrade to the newer style steering linkage from a 4907/4908 3.3 T Maxx. This will bolt right up and use your existing hardware, but could interfere with the reverse servo sticking through the chassis. If it does, you can use some washers to space the reverse servo higher off the chassis to avoid it hitting the bellcrank. Of course, if you have a forward only conversion, it will fit right in without issues. I put an aluminum 3.3 steering linkage in my Maxx years ago and it is much better than the older style set up was. I can't remember who makes it, but they are pretty easy to find.
Here is a useful link to servo specs. You can reference what you have and compare it to others past and present. It has basically every major servo manufactured in it. Servo Database link
As stated above, check your linkages and servo saver, those older style white savers usually last quite awhile but I've had the springs in them break a few times because they rust over time. You can upgrade to an aluminum steering set up with bearings in it to free up the servo a bit more too. The stock set up has nylon bushings, those can be lubed with grease as well which will help a bit. I'm pretty sure you can upgrade the servo saver itself as well as the linkage, but I'm not sure on that.
What servo exactly are you using now for steering? The torque and speed figures are what's important to know. As MaxxGabriel said, there is a very wide range of "high torque" servos on the market. For example, I have an old Cirrus CS 60MG in my HPI Rush which is called high torque, but only has 60 oz-in of torque @ 4.8 volts, but is high torque for a little stadium truck. The servo in my Maxx now is a Cirrus CDS 751MG, also called high torque but has 153 oz-in of torque @ 4.8 volts. One I hear recommended a lot for trucks is the Savox SC-0251. That one has 180 oz-in of torque @ 4.8 volts, 222 oz-in @ 6.0 volts. They cost about $40 and have ball bearings and metal gears, which is a must have in a steering servo. In my experience, bushing style servos with plastic gears are not only slower, the gears will strip out eventually as well. There are others out there with similar specs, but you'll want something above 150 oz-in of turque for a monster truck for sure. More torque is definitely better here so look around for some deals on Ebay.
The last option that could work is to upgrade to the newer style steering linkage from a 4907/4908 3.3 T Maxx. This will bolt right up and use your existing hardware, but could interfere with the reverse servo sticking through the chassis. If it does, you can use some washers to space the reverse servo higher off the chassis to avoid it hitting the bellcrank. Of course, if you have a forward only conversion, it will fit right in without issues. I put an aluminum 3.3 steering linkage in my Maxx years ago and it is much better than the older style set up was. I can't remember who makes it, but they are pretty easy to find.
Here is a useful link to servo specs. You can reference what you have and compare it to others past and present. It has basically every major servo manufactured in it. Servo Database link
#6
Loosening up the Allen heads under the tires worked well. I am running am 80oz high torque servo withbmetal gears.
#7
Time to upgrade your servo . 80oz is a ridiculously low amount of torque for a monster truck. My emaxxs are running 350oz servos. My stadium truck runs a 230oz. Prices are ridiculously cheap. You can get a Solar 772 for $20 that is more than 4 times the power of the one you are running.