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SeeGee911's Savage Flux XL "Ballistic"

SeeGee911's Savage Flux XL "Ballistic"

Old 02-16-2015, 10:23 PM
  #31  
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Actually, I just took it apart, and it turns out that it was not the spiders, but the 9t input on the diff... Wow.
Sheared off 3 teeth. I only found 2 of the teeth in the diff housing, and suspect that I broke off the first one sometime prior to all the upgrades. I never took the diff out of the bulkhead. I wasn't making changes to the diff, so I didn't do anything with it... It did have a bit of a clingy sound when I first drove it after the upgrades, but it went away after a few minutes, so I figured that it was just the lubricants working in. Diff spur shows no sign of damage.
I'm going to consider the alza diff. I just need the cash, so it might take some time.
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Old 02-17-2015, 12:29 AM
  #32  
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Yes Alza CD is mandatory, especially if running heavy / grippy tires like 40 series Trenchers. Diffs are fairly strong once properly shimmed. Mine have held up well with big block 1717 motor.
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Old 02-17-2015, 03:54 AM
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That's the reason I got the alza cd was because I was tired of breaking the rear pinion gear. I put the cd in last November (only took like an hour). I have yet to run it though as we got 7 feet of snow in buffalo in 2 days and the cold and snow have not stopped. Took me a little while to save up the money but as you see everybody says nothing is better. Can't wait til the thaw finally happens so I can run it.
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Old 02-17-2015, 06:43 AM
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Yeah I forgot to mention in my previous post that I was blowing out perfectly shimmed diffs, and the only real fix was a CD. I love big heavy tires, so changing to something smaller was out of the question.
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Old 02-17-2015, 09:19 AM
  #35  
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Same here. I had big joes and sold those and now I have duratrax hatchets which are even bigger and more awesome. I think the bigger tires really make the look of the monster truck.
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Old 02-17-2015, 11:23 AM
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Yeah. Im starting to see what you mean. here's a pic of the carnage.
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Old 02-17-2015, 11:26 AM
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Wow... Does your drive train spin freely without the motor engaged? I've never seen sheared pinion teeth like that before.
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Old 02-17-2015, 12:20 PM
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Yeah, drivetrain is nice and smooth. It's possible that it was defective from the start... Like I said, there were only 2 teeth in the diff housing. There's no way that the 3rd could have fallen out.

On the topic of the Center diff, using the 48t spur that comes on the Vorza diff, what tooth count pinion should I use on the 2200kv Torx motor? I'm assuming that the diff spur is mod1 on the Vorza diff?
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Old 02-17-2015, 12:29 PM
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Yeah the vorza is mod 1. I use an 11 tooth pinion for mine. I don't have the vorza diff though. Mine is from an 8th scale sct. I think mine is a 46 tooth spur iirc.
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Old 02-17-2015, 03:43 PM
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I got the vorza diff and the 11 tooth pinion is what I am using. It is mod 1. That's what happened to my rear pinion twice. The pinions aren't defective just not as "bulletproof" as they say. Usually you hear a telltale crunch sound when it happens. Hopefully the alza center diff will cure that problem. If not I'm putting the roller up for sale and keeping the electronics for a yeti xl kit :$.
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Old 02-17-2015, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ghonda99
I got the vorza diff and the 11 tooth pinion is what I am using. It is mod 1. That's what happened to my rear pinion twice. The pinions aren't defective just not as "bulletproof" as they say. Usually you hear a telltale crunch sound when it happens. Hopefully the alza center diff will cure that problem. If not I'm putting the roller up for sale and keeping the electronics for a yeti xl kit :$.
I'm looking to get an XL kit as well. I need to sell one of my Savages first. I have one that's pretty much new and complete that is sitting around collecting dust. I haven't even driven it outside...
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Old 02-17-2015, 10:41 PM
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Ok, if the diff is mod1, then I can start off with my 12/48t. You don't have any heat problems with the 11/46t combo? That ratio is so close that you could call it the same, lol.

Put in the new part, diff oil changed (50k). Good thing I opened it up, snapped a pin on the input gear too. Replaced. Added a shim to the spur side, perfect mesh between the 29/9 gears. just have to loctite the steering assembly, and I'm going to take a look at the rear tomorrow, just in case.
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Old 02-20-2015, 12:26 PM
  #43  
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I run 10/46 without heat issues. Finding a decent 10t pinion is difficult though. 11/46 should be alright.
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Old 02-20-2015, 11:28 PM
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Had to use a longer screw and a locknut to solve the problem with the screws in steering assembly coming loose. But today I shattered a hex and snapped the rear Axle at the hex pin. I'm going to run with the stock axles in the rear, just because I have them. I'm waiting for the integy hexes....
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Old 02-21-2015, 05:53 AM
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I had integy hexes... They suck. The pin bores wallow out and the hexes round off. I'm using got racing now and they're awesome. The only good integy parts are the rear carriers and bellcrank.
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