The radio you described has 'dry cells' in the Tx. These metal tabs are notorious for corroding and/or not fitting up tight enough against the cells causing poor connections. It's not normally a problem when they're new though. :confused:

As for Xtals, if they've been dropped, it doesn't matter how new they are. ;)

Certain bands are more prone to interference, 27Mhz AM is particularly iffy. I can't comment on 75Mhz, but FM radios generally give a much more reliable signal.

What you might want to do is a try range check and get a friend to help you. Disconnect the motors and try the radio for range and see if any glitching occurs. If glitching does occur, you can rule out any car related causes. Then you can concentrate on the radio - Tx, Rx, Xtals, Aerials, etc.

Thanks Horatio,

I changed the TX Batteries last night, just incase it was something as simple as that, but, that did nothing :(

When I get some more time I'll go through some of your suggestions and see if I can knock this problem on the head.

Thanks again

What do you mean by this, how could they be different from positive to negative?

Because when I pulled the brushes out to check them, I heaped all the springs together, not taking notice of which one came from where!!!

When motors are manufactured, the comms are just kinda "shoved" into place, and are not completely round. That makes the brushes bounce, and the hotter the motor, the more they bounce. I think you really need to have the comms cut, at least to just know that they are not the problem. I know you don't have convenient access to a lathe or shop, but I will offer you this: If you want, you can ship me your armatures, and I will cut them for you, no charge. I have 14 years' experience in this hobby, and know very well what I am doing, so I can promise you that I will care for your parts very well. Let me know, you can PM or email me.


Matt

The comms are never perfectly round, even from the factory.

Arcing will always occur to a certain extent, it's damn near impossible to get a motor to operate without a little bit of arcing. The brushes will always bounce a little bit. The Fireball's are a bit on the "inexpensive" side, and they may be a little tweaked from the factory. Just get the arcing down to a reasonable amount and see if your glitching goes away. Phatkat has given you just about all the info you need to get rid of your arcing problem.

I just realized something!!

The suspension is specifically designed to operate in one direction. My Juggernaut hates reverse! What if when you drive in reverse your front wheels just jiggle because they aren't designed to operate as efficiently in reverse?

As for the arcing, re-program your Super Rooster. If when you let off the gas or hit reverse the brakes enable to fast or not enough, your motor's may act erratictly. Arcing happens a lot of times in reverse and under hard braking. Program the ESC and adjust your trim.

Hey Guys,

Sorry it took so long to get back to ya's.
I went through and tried everything you have suggested but the glitching problem remained. Thanks for your offer Phatkat but it would cost me more to send you the motors to have the comms machined than it would be to buy new motors, cheers anyway.
So, I don't know why I did it, but I plugged the Reciever pack back into the reciever (with an ESC you don't have to have a reciever pack) and more than 3/4 of the glitching and spastics went away!!! :confused: I have accepted it the way it is now, although it still glitches, it's better than it was!
Why should hooking up the reciever pack remove most of the glitching, I don't understand???

Sounds like a dodgey Rx to me. Or some sort of lead problem from the Speedo. That's the thing with these kind of problems - without actually having the gear in front of you, it's difficult to help.

Post some pictures if you can, that should save a 1000 or so words.