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HPI Savage octane CDI production date

HPI Savage octane CDI production date

Old 06-22-2014, 02:05 AM
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Default HPI Savage octane CDI production date

Hi all,

I have the new Octane Savage I purchased from Tower Hobbies. Now I am in Melbourne Australia and I know I have no warranty outside the US.

Could you guys who own the Savage please post the production date which is under the serial number. My production date is 20121012.

Any help would be great as I have NO SPARK, fully charged batteries I am using a 5000 mah also I have 3 spark plugs all with NO SPARK.

So I am guessing its the CDI.

Any help would be great.

Cheers Dave
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Old 06-23-2014, 05:50 AM
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Hi Dave, I posted this in the other thread you posted in but just in case I'll c&p the same info here. This is an ignition system testing guide we'll be publishing later today and adding to the PDF info we published previously on the Savage XL Octane kit page http://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/109073

Ignition System Testing
Please use these testing procedures to determine if your Savage XL Octane Ignition System (also called a ‘CDI’) is faulty. Follow all the steps thoroughly to properly test your Ignition System.
You will need these supplies to perform an initial test on the ignition box:
• A fully charged receiver pack to plug into the Ignition System
• A new spark plug to fit the GT15C engine
• A thin screwdriver

You can perform all the steps of this testing at home without running the engine. Please perform these steps in a quiet area (so you can listen for the spark arcing) and where you can dim the lights (so you can watch for a spark).
Step 1 – Testing Ignition System
1. Remove the spark plug cap from the engine and insert a brand new spark plug into the spark plug cap.
2. Carefully observe the spark plug tip while slowly pulling the starter cord
3. You should see a spark between the spark plug element and the tip, or hear a snap/crack

• If you do see a spark or hear a snap/crack, proceed to Step 2
• If there is no visible spark or no snap/crack then you will need to test the Ignition System more thoroughly. Proceed to Step 4 for instructions on how to do this.

Step 2 – Testing Spark Plug Cap Insulation
1. Remove the spark plug from the spark plug cap.
2. Slowly pull the starter cord and observe the interior of the spark plug cap carefully

• If you see a spark arcing through the silicone boot to the metal shell of the cap, the Ignition System needs to be replaced
• If there is no visible spark but you hear a snap/crack, proceed to Step 3

Step 3 – Testing Spark Strength
1. Insert a small screwdriver into the spark plug cap, making sure it touches the central metal cap inside the clear silicone insulator. The screwdriver should not touch the outside of the spark plug cap.
2. Slowly pull the starter cord, you should see a spark between the screw driver to the metal cap

• If you hear a spark but do not see one in the spark plug cap, the Ignition System needs to be replaced
• If you see a spark between the screw driver and the metal cap, the Ignition System is working and no further testing is required.

Please follow the next set of testing procedures if you found that there was no visible spark or no snap/crack during Step 1 - Complete Ignition System Testing. Please note that some tests require removal of the engine from the car.
You will need these supplies to fully test the ignition box:
• A fully charged receiver pack to plug into the Ignition System
• A new spark plug to fit the GT15C engine
• A servo extension lead (with male and female ends). You will need the female end of the extension intact. Cut the opposite end off, then separate and strip the ends of the 3 wires
• A voltmeter or multimeter set to record Volts
• A magnet (a bar-style magnet is best but any will do)

Step 4 – Testing Ignition Box Power Output
1. Plug in the modified servo extension lead into the sensor connection of the ignition system
2. Remove the spark plug lead from the engine and install a new spark plug all of the way into the lead
3. Plug the fully charged receiver pack into the ignition system
4. Use the voltmeter to check the voltage on the red and black wires on the test lead

• If there is a voltage reading, proceed to Step 5.
• If there is no voltage, the Ignition System needs to be replaced

Step 5: Testing Ignition Box Function
1. Hold the black and white wires on the test lead, and tap the exposed part of the wires together
2. As you separate the wires, watch the end if the new spark plug carefully

• If you see a spark or hear a snap/crack, proceed to Step 6
• If there is no visible spark or no snap/crack, the Ignition System needs to be replaced

Step 6 – Testing Timing Sensor Function
1. Remove the test lead from the ignition box
2. Remove the engine from the car
3. Remove the Timing Sensor from the engine and connect it to the Ignition Box
4. To simulate flywheel magnet operation, bring the south pole of a magnet towards the underside of sensor tip until contact is almost made.

• If you see a spark or hear a snap/crack, proceed to Step 7
• If there is no visible spark or no snap/crack, the Timing Sensor needs to be replaced

Important - When reinstalling the Timing Sensor onto the engine, use the information in the manual to position it correctly. The position is very important as it determines the spark timing.

Step 7 – Testing Flywheel Magnet
If you have reached this step, the only remaining component of the Ignition System that can be faulty is the Flywheel or Flywheel Magnet. Possible faults are:
1. Magnet missing from flywheel
2. Damaged or weak magnet
3. Magnet too far away from Timing sensor to be detected.
• Replace the Flywheel and re-perform Step 1 to check that the Ignition System is now fully working.
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:25 AM
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Thanks for sharing that with everyone Frank, hopefully that will help.
Also you might want to mention that checking voltage should indicate battery voltage I assume.

Last edited by spookie; 06-23-2014 at 08:37 AM.
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:30 AM
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Frank, how long until the CDI's will be available? I just noticed this morning that Tower has gone from late June availability, to late September.
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:44 AM
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Unfortunately I don't know anything about stock levels or shipments, so I don't know, sorry. The point of sharing how to test your CDI is to remove the need to send it anywhere if it is actually good, so if you think your CDI is bad, test it first, or ask your hobby shop test it.

Originally Posted by spookie View Post
Thanks for sharing that with everyone Frank, hopefully that will help.
Also you might want to mention that checking voltage should indicate battery voltage I assume.
You're welcome! We're trying to make the Octane experience better for everyone, so the more info we can get out there, the better And do you mean step 4? You're checking the power output of the sensor lead, not the battery directly - if that's bad your CDI won't know when to spark.
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Old 06-23-2014, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank McKinney View Post
Unfortunately I don't know anything about stock levels or shipments, so I don't know, sorry. The point of sharing how to test your CDI is to remove the need to send it anywhere if it is actually good, so if you think your CDI is bad, test it first, or ask your hobby shop test it.



You're welcome! We're trying to make the Octane experience better for everyone, so the more info we can get out there, the better And do you mean step 4? You're checking the power output of the sensor lead, not the battery directly - if that's bad your CDI won't know when to spark.
Yes, step 4, thanks for clearing that up, I just wanted to make sure it was plain. I'm used to working with diagnostic trees (Auto electrical diag), trouble shooting individual components, but to some it's a little intimidating.
Thanks again for posting this, really hope it clears up the mystic.
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Old 06-23-2014, 12:43 PM
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Yeah yeah, he was just, umm you know, asking for a friend, he already knew the answer
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:23 PM
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Thanks for all the info Frank...very helpfull
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:50 AM
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You're welcome! Basically if you think your CDI is bad, or you know someone who thinks theirs is, or you think someone might think they think their CDI is bad tell them to go through this checklist. It's on the Octane Running Tips PDF here: http://www.hpiracing.com/assets/docu...nning_tips.pdf so it'll always be online, can be saved to a phone/tablet for reading later, etc., etc.

Originally Posted by Shawner85 View Post
Yeah yeah, he was just, umm you know, asking for a friend, he already knew the answer
Oh! Yeah...I knew that already :P
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:58 AM
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Lol, nah I'm good on that aspect. Several questions Frank. What will be done for those can have confirmed cdi failures? Will Hpi do a return cross ship for them? And is this issue why the parts availability have been pushed back as one poster mentioned? Or will people be forced to wait until later this year for parts? Just curious what is being bandied about on this inside Hpi.
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:22 AM
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Returns and warranty for all HPI kits and parts depend on the distributor in each region (meaning HPI doesn't send the parts directly out to customers, the distributors send out spares from their stock), but of course HPI have a warranty we honor on all new kits. Parts supply with most new kits can be a problem and it's affected the Octane kit for sure, but spares ARE in the pipeline and ARE on the way to distributors to take care of anyone with dead or damaged CDIs.

But we do encourage everyone with what they think is a terminal CDI to test the CDI (multimeters and servo extension wires are cheap! esp. compared to the cost of the Octane) to make sure it really IS the CDI that's bad. Your local shop or a fellow Savage owner can help you test the CDI if you ask them.

If you send off your CDI thinking it's bad, but it's actually your plug gap, a dead plug, the engine has only run for half a tank or you've just fiddled around with the carb settings too much, then you get a new CDI and plug it in but you haven't changed anything else, you'll just throw up your hands in despair which is a normal reaction - but we've taken all the steps we can to fix things so they don't get to that point.

Last edited by Frank McKinney; 06-24-2014 at 07:57 AM.
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:40 AM
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Cool, thanks for answering Frank. I can't imagine there is too many with this specific issue, so hopefully it hasn't damaged sales and release. It may be me, but the ones that have been successful in running theirs trough breakin with factory carb setting's seem to be doing ok for the most part. So hopefully it won't be too long all this will be a memory.
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Old 06-24-2014, 08:00 AM
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Yeah it's a new thing for people to learn about - remember when brushless came out, then LiPo? The RC flight guys were all over it and knew just about everything but it took a while before what we know now became common knowledge. Eventually every Octane owner out there will get theirs run in right, tuned to perfection and will love their truck it'll take some time but we're trying to keep things going in the right direction
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:48 PM
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It really has been an interesting read I must say...I didn't expect to have these problems but YES I understand things just do go wrong.

Frank one thing that I noticed was the little spring/element in the boot of the CDI when you put the spark plug in the connection very sloppy. To me it didn't even look like the end of the spark plug would even reach it. So I pushed it in even further than noticed the spring was pushed way up in the plastic...I managed to get it back by opening the boot...connection looks evident but NO spark..

So I guess i'll wait for my leads & magnet. The only thing that worries me is taking off the timing sensor and re connecting it and getting the position right to than get the timing right..but I guess I have no option
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Old 10-24-2014, 07:11 PM
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Hi guys,
My experience with the octane wasnt so go as far, at first i was having lot s of cdi interference on both servos, i fix it taking the cdi box out of the box and reinstalling it in the back of the truck, of course i sealed with aluminium foil and i was able to run without any issue, after that everithing was ok at the 8 th tank it change into second gear, that was awesome!!!! Good responce from the engine.
Everything was doing good after the engine stop running, i check everything spark, the plug, box, everything was ok, then i realyse that it sparks after i move the cable of the timing sensor, and that was the problem, as the receiver and cdi was together with the batteries, everytime i take them out for charging i pulled the timing sensor cable, that causes the cables cut inside, so be carefull when you take out the batteries out of the box or you wil cut the wires from the timing sensor, now i have to replace it i already tame it out dont be afraid to take it out just mark with a pen the two sides of the sensor and then replaced in the same position.
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