the classic flm emaxx and rpm build/comments & thoughts
 

Hey guys, I have been in the buggy nitro world for years and wanting to do the classic emaxx build as I have heard is a beast when its complete. I'm willing to buy the emaxx brushless new and at the same token purchase the film chassis with full rpm bulks, bulk braces, shock towers, a-arms and true track, 3-PC skid, traxxas steel cvds, and trencher tires.


I'm looking to sell the stock ESC for the new mmm2 as its waterproof. And spektrum dx3 Rx/tx. I'm not sure I'd I'm missing something or not but I believe this would be a hell of a truck and just trying to compare this to a friend's savage flux HP. I have seen this truck in person and its nasrty and haven't seen a emaxx like I have described but I know there are out there. I'm looking to bash on a 4s acc gene 60c 5k battery and handle a decent jump after a big bore shock upgrade.

I'm asking as this is my gift at the end of the year. Thanks for commenting!!

Why not just buy a roller off of ebay? Then you won't have to worry about trying to sell off all the electronics, wheels tires, etc. just to go out and buy the same things.

I was thinking the same thing about buying a roller. The only thing you'd need that you would've kept is a motor and a body. The Traxxas CVD's are pretty stout but I've always preffered indestructible MIP's. If you go with the Traxxas cvd's get the optional drive cups for the Revo with extended arms. Otherwise the Traxxas cvd's can pop out with the True Track when the suspension is fully extended.

Building a Maxx is fun and they are fun to drive. I personally like them better than the Savage. The build your planning sounds like it's all about durability and on the right track. There is one other thing I need to add to that list and that is hinge pins. Lunsford titanium pins are the usual to but I've bent them countless times with my Maxx builds. The guys who do Unlimted Engineering builds make theirs out of ejector pins (Plastixs is one source) and if it's good enough for them I'd give it a shot.

If you're going to stay with a stock style motor on 4s the stock diffs should be ok. I'd still go through the diffs, getting rid of the Teflon washers and shimming with real metal shims. The diffs won't be bulletproof but they'll be plenty stout for the power level. But if you want higher power you might want to consider the FLM combo bulks that accommodate 1/8 scale diffs.

I have considered buying a roller and in the end pricing it out it comes to about the same price but buying new I get everything new and nothing used which was my only concern. I was thinking of using the flm or even the bigger 4mm hinge pins.

I may consider doing aluminum bulks and braces but that all the metal I want and the I want the test to be able to flex and absorb the shock from landing.

As far as the diff's, I've seen ppl upgrading them but if there are not going past 4s I ha sent seen a problem with the stock one but down the road I would lime to upgrade....where would I buy these at or how to go about looking them up?? Thanks for your replies, I want one of the best bashing trucks and also just love the bad ass emaxx look so I hope the money comes worth it lol.

I want it to be very durable and have fun with the truck and not spend more time fixing it. I like the roller idea but I'm just a person who likes everything new and unused. I'm thinking having the maxx on an aluminum chassis and everything full rpm will be a great build....what's wrong with the center drives that flm supplies??

I'm thinking of running the titanium hinge pins but do they work with the rpm a arms?? I thought they are 4mm from rpm. My next thought is it really worth switching the diff's out if I'm only running 4s?

When we mentioned buying a roller on eBay we meant new not used. There are chop shops that strip the wheels and electronics off a truck and sell the roller whole. Like I said the diffs should be ok if you stay with 4s, especially if you go through them and shim with metal shims instead of the Teflon washers. The Teflon washers wear down and get crushed.

FLM is the source of the Hybrid bulkheads that accept 1/8 buggy or truggy diffs. I had a set with Ofna diffs on my 1520 6s powered Emaxx. That truck needed the upgrade due to the larger more powerful motor and being run on 6s. There's nothing wrong with the center driveshafts that come with the FLM chassis. You mentioned going with the Traxxas cvd's and I suggested MIP instead.

I've never tried the FLM hinge pins or 4mm pins. I just know with aluminum bulks and rpm arms I've bent every other pin out there to the point the suspension binds. Aluminum bulks and arms would be more likely to bend the pins and the Unlimered Engineering stuff is all aluminum. And if the guys building Unlimted Ungineering stuff don't bend the Ejector pins then they must be tough. They're also 3mm so you don't have to drill anything out.

I haven't seen any I depth reviews of the RPM bulks. Before they came out aluminum bulks and RPM arms was the most durable setup. You really only need the arms to flex because if you hit something where the bulkhead takes the impact the rest of the truck is likely to suffer no matter what. My builds were always aluminum bulks, towers, chassis rails, titanium skids and rpm arms. With that combination I never bent anything and never broke the plastic 3903/5/8 Emaxx chassis either.

Alright thanks I sure appreciate your help. I'm thinking I'll do the flm chassis and do rpm all the way as of a money thing and down the road if I in counter an issue with the bulks I'll upgrade to aluminum. And for the pins I k is you recommend the ejector but I will try the lunsford titanium as I won't beat the shit out if thus truck lol and see how that works for me. Should I keep the stock gearing?

I am going to be building the same truck over Christmas.I have the flm chassi,rpm arms,bulks,bulk braces and shock towers.I am looking forward to christmas

Sounds like what I have in mins but it is being completed with income tax $$$ lol. I was thinking instead of a roller cause I will be replacing everything anyway is to build one from scratch....would it cost even less???

For example just adding the electronics and drive line components and a screw kit to the and its complete right?

That's basicaly what I am doing.The brushless maxx here in the UK is around £650.I can't afford that but if I could but wanted to go flm and rpm I would be throwing half of it away which would be crazy.with eBay chop shops most of the parts are cheap so that's how I am building mine.

Ya I have been checking out eBay and see if I could put one together flm and rpm and find all the drive line components, it can be done and either way it seems pricey but I'm willing to at tax time so I can have that ultimate basher and just have some all around good fun lol. With what I want I'm pushing close to 1000 bucks here in the US.

Flm chassis
Rpm arms
True track
Bulks and braces
Skids
Shock towers and body mount
Axle carriers for the front
Big bore shocks
Mmm 3 (waterproof)
Steel cvds
Spectrum dxe3
Trencher's
And I could be forgetting something I'm sure and I'll have to include some lipos and a charger after being in the nirto world. I plan on running some acc gene lipos.

I am lucky as I had an old T maxx in my shed that I had bought rpm arms,shock towers ad bulk braces for so I didn't need to buy them.My mum never knows what to get me for Christmas so this year she paid for the flm chassi.I have since bought the rpm bulks.The rear rpm's I have are standard ones so goint to buy the truetrack on payday.I don't think I am going to go for the rpm skids as I have seen quite a few people have problems with the front one digging into the ground on nose first landings and filling with mud.i think I am going to go T-Bones instead.I am not going for the rpm front hubs either as I think they are to overpriced and the have a problem with the pivot balls popping out.I can get 4 stockers for £10 on ebay so I will run the stockers on the front and that will leave me 4 little metal ball retainer rings so I will put 2 on the truetrack and that will leave me 2 spares.For you it mite be different as I am not sure how much $ the parts cost you but for me in the UK and with the difference between the £ and the $ its much cheaper for me to buy from the US.For instance 1 driveshaft for me to buy here will be about £10 where as I can get 4 from the US for under £20 delivered.

I am not going to use traxxas cvd's either because as the rpm's are more flexible the cvd's get bent easily.I will use the sockets as they hold up ok to 4s and much cheaper to replace.