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Routing motor/esc wires - brushless conversion

Routing motor/esc wires - brushless conversion

Old 10-27-2013, 06:00 PM
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Default Routing motor/esc wires - brushless conversion

I may have put this in the wrong forum at first so sorry if you see it twice (in the main electric off-road forum).

So I'm in the middle of converting my savage to brushless. I'm using a Tacon 2150kv 4074 motor with the hobbywing 150A esc. I got the motor and esc today but am having a difficult time figuring the best way to route the wires to keep them out of the way of the spur/pinion and to not kink them all up.

Can I bend the motor's wires??? I read somewhere that I shouldn't do this.

Can some people here post some pictures of how they routed their wires - in a brushless conversion?? Or in any brushless setup - preferably not an RTR though.

Thanks....here's where the way I left mine... loosely connected...



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Old 10-27-2013, 10:26 PM
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My suggestion is to shorten the ESC wires so that there's only enough to reach the motor. it makes it tidy and less resistance in the system too.
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:14 PM
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Motor wires vary between manufacturer, but with any wire you should avoid sharp bends. Some brushless motors have very stiff hard to bend wires and in those cases this is even more important as they can break. If your motor wires are stiff that means those wires are actually the windings of the motor extending outside of the can. Motor windings have a coating on them that is next to impossible to remove and solder won't stick until its removed. Manufactures use special chemicals to remove just enough of the coating at the end of the wire for soldering. So if you break a wire, you have to be lucky enough to have enough outside the can to make a repair and then gotta find the chemical or someone with it to remove the coating before you can make the repair.

Your motor and esc bullets look pretty long and the shrink tubing doesn't cover them properly leaving them to possibly short on something. I'd get a set of shorter bullets for the esc and motor. Don't be afraid to swap connectors on stiff motor wires, just be afraid of how you bend them and how much. Instead bend the esc wires at a 90 degree angle at the bullet connector. If you strip back an extra 1/4 of insulation on the esc wires you can flow some solder into the wires (tining) while they're bent and get them to stay that way. Then just cover with shrink tubing. The bend should end up just before or right on top of the motor mount but before the spur so you'll be ok. And if you ever want to put the esc in something else and don't need the bend just unsolder the bullets, heat the bend straight, cutoff the 1/4 or so of excess and solder the bullets back on.
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:34 PM
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O would rotate motor a little under 90 so your wires are facing straight up or maybe still coming out of the can towards the esc but clocked a little further away from the esc. Since your wires are probably stiff if they are part if the windows this can give you a little more room to work with.

Then I would significantly shorten your esc wires. If you are worried about making esc wires too short for potential using the esc on a different chassis, no worries. The whole esc wires are very simple to swap out, its as easy as soldering battery or motor connectors.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave_S View Post
O would rotate motor a little under 90 so your wires are facing straight up or maybe still coming out of the can towards the esc but clocked a little further away from the esc.
I was going to suggest the same thing but then I noticed the body mount height. It doesn't look like there.s much room and IDK if he can or wants to raise the body.

Plus I learned a hard lesson about having motor wires facing up and what happens when the truck rolls over. Since then I will never take a quick "test run" without a body even if the truck has a rollbar.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:40 AM
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Yeah, that is a good point. I have no idea about savage bodies and haven't ever seen one in person. Was just basing it off of the height of those roll bars, I didn't even see the front body mounts until I looked again at it.

Still might be able to clock it a bit, but probably better safe than sorry. If somehow the motor wires got fudged up it is not a good time repairing them, not by a long shot.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:38 AM
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Thanks guys! I'll probably try shortening the esc wires first... I was actually thinking of making them longer - to make a larger sweeping bend.

How much of a bend can I put on those... They are the flexible silicone wires 10awg?

I can't do anything with the motor leads... They are stiff (can move/bend some)... But it's a 60 motor I bought just to get back into R/C.

I can also rotate the motor as suggested.

The body maybe able to be raised... I'll have to check.
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:06 AM
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You can bend silicone wires pretty far, but les is better ofcourse.
If the motor wires are stiff, that sounds like they are winding, so try not to bend those very much.
That also means that you can't shorten the motor wires, but you can shorten the ESC wires.\


Hope it helped you!

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