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Old 09-25-2013, 04:29 AM   #31
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Kinda off topic now but Got_Nitro has been doing that ever since I joined the forum in January..
Doing what?
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Old 09-25-2013, 04:45 AM   #32
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Doing what?
Acting up.
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:07 AM   #33
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Acting up.
Oh lol thanks. Well, some forum members are assets and some, not so much lol. Sorry. back on topic.
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:52 AM   #34
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Any aluminum parts that people recommend? I was looking at upgrading the drive shafts on my e revo to the nicer metal ones instead of the plastic ones but I hear people have broke them easily too. Are these really that good or would the plastic ones be fine? Also does your truck look like it is going slower than it claims it goes? I had an 18/54 gearing and it didnt look like it was going as fast as I thought it was going. maybe it is just me overthinking the speed
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:02 PM   #35
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Any aluminum parts that people recommend? I was looking at upgrading the drive shafts on my e revo to the nicer metal ones instead of the plastic ones but I hear people have broke them easily too. Are these really that good or would the plastic ones be fine? Also does your truck look like it is going slower than it claims it goes? I had an 18/54 gearing and it didnt look like it was going as fast as I thought it was going. maybe it is just me overthinking the speed
I think that upgrading the spinning parts to metal can improve things. But doing the "bling" route is not going to make it rougher or tougher. RPM upgrades work well for arms / body post / skids / bumpers / etc. and being able to flex they will take a beating and still be there for you. Often the stock plastic can crack or break and aluminum will bend or simply transfer the energy of impact back to some other point in the truck snapping off parts.

I would also very much recommend the 17mm hubs, they will hold up much better than the 14mm ones under brushless power. The splined hubs are a step up to that putting more surface area into play. Larger than 17mm only limits your buying options without giving you any real advantage.
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Old 09-25-2013, 01:33 PM   #36
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the ability to run 17 mm hex wheels is a big plus.
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:41 AM   #37
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Yep although some people just want to dump money into their rigs. They want nice new cool looking parts. I want simple and works lol i put this out on traxxas forums like a year and a half ago and a bunch of people just replied "just get the Robinson racing slipper it's so much better" I for one can honestly say ITS NOT!! Do this and be done with melting spurs and glazed pads. Also another tip for new guys DON'T GET A STEEL SPUR GEAR! This is something I wish someone would have told me when I was younger because I put steel spurs on all my cars when I first got started but they are terrible. Your car needs a point of failure somewhere let it be the $3 spur. And I haven't scredded a plastic spur in any of cars in years I replace them every now and then just because of wear but they never strip and only need to be changed like once a year.
On most trucks this is a sure thing, but the Maxx and Revo lines really benefit from things like the RRP Gen3 steel slipper/spur combo, as the original factory assembly was designed for Brushed motors, and will just detonate under any setting that holds BL down.
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:53 AM   #38
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IMO you should stay with the plastic driveshafts as the metal ones will bend if you run it hard . Also I see no need for a steel spur or the RRP slipper as long as you make sure the stocker isnt locked down and is working .

As I stated earlier RPM a arms , Lunsford Ti turnbuckles/toe links , and the M2C rear pin block and you are pretty much good to go . Maybe get one of those rear chassis braces if you think youre gonna bash hard .....
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Old 09-26-2013, 10:54 AM   #39
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On most trucks this is a sure thing, but the Maxx and Revo lines really benefit from things like the RRP Gen3 steel slipper/spur combo, as the original factory assembly was designed for Brushed motors, and will just detonate under any setting that holds BL down.
I have 3 nitro revos, 1 tmaxx, and an erbe with lst2 diffs that only runs on 6s and All my Nitros run big blocks and if you do the tmaxx brake disc like I put in my previous post you will never have a problem. The steel spur and pinion create way to much heat and kill bearings I had the rep slipper now I do my tmaxx pad slipper mod and have no problems
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:35 AM   #40
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I have 3 nitro revos, 1 tmaxx, and an erbe with lst2 diffs that only runs on 6s and All my Nitros run big blocks and if you do the tmaxx brake disc like I put in my previous post you will never have a problem. The steel spur and pinion create way to much heat and kill bearings I had the rep slipper now I do my tmaxx pad slipper mod and have no problems
I'll agree with the T-Maxx Brake Disc mod. That's a good alternative. However, I was originally talking about the as-provided slipper, which is still a pile of junk unmodified.

However, 2 years and counting on my RRP Gen3 in my E-Maxx, no issues. Most of your metal-on-metal bearing killers come from bad meshes and slop. Nitro may also have an issue with all the rotating mass added by the considerably heavier steel slipper/spur combo.
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