Stampede 4x4 Drive Shaft Upgrade
#1
Stampede 4x4 Drive Shaft Upgrade
Hi just bought a used stampede 4x4 and after 20min of 3s bashing, the rear drive shaft broke, the middle part where it connects to the ball joint broke off.
I have ordered a traxxas replacement drive shaft for a quick fix. I have done a bit of research and found MIP and Tekno both make hopup part for the Stampede / slash 4x4.
MIP is more expensive (~$90 front and back) and tekno is (~$70) and include the hub carrier and uses 6mm shaft and it also upgraded to a bigger bearing, so it seems tekno is the go.
I guess my question is tekno as strong as MIP or is it strong enough?? I mainly bash with 3s with the stock VXL combo, but I may change the motor to Castle 1415 with Hobbywing SCT Pro. Would the tekno one strong enough??
Also does the front one break often? if I can get away with changing the rear only, I will do just that.
Any advise will be appreciated. Thanks.
I have ordered a traxxas replacement drive shaft for a quick fix. I have done a bit of research and found MIP and Tekno both make hopup part for the Stampede / slash 4x4.
MIP is more expensive (~$90 front and back) and tekno is (~$70) and include the hub carrier and uses 6mm shaft and it also upgraded to a bigger bearing, so it seems tekno is the go.
I guess my question is tekno as strong as MIP or is it strong enough?? I mainly bash with 3s with the stock VXL combo, but I may change the motor to Castle 1415 with Hobbywing SCT Pro. Would the tekno one strong enough??
Also does the front one break often? if I can get away with changing the rear only, I will do just that.
Any advise will be appreciated. Thanks.
#2
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
The fronts don't break real often. I've got the plastic shafts on the front of my Pede 4x4 and modified Slash 4x4, with MIP X-Duty shafts in the rear.
Problem is, the fronts typically break at the axle shaft U-Joint ears, which is annoying as I've got a ton of shaft spares, and few axle shafts. :P
If you are going to run 3S all the time, go steel all around. I keep off the 3S packs as I don't like shredding front shafts, and 2S keeps the trucks controllable.
Problem is, the fronts typically break at the axle shaft U-Joint ears, which is annoying as I've got a ton of shaft spares, and few axle shafts. :P
If you are going to run 3S all the time, go steel all around. I keep off the 3S packs as I don't like shredding front shafts, and 2S keeps the trucks controllable.
#3
Is the MIP better than Tekno?
MIP - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MIP-10130...item58949968f4
Tekno - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tekno-RC-...item460f3659b5
Tekno offer the carrier for the larger bearings and its cheaper, but uses dogbone on one side, as opposed to MIP where CVD on both side. Just wanted to know anyone has used Tekno and is it durable?
MIP - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MIP-10130...item58949968f4
Tekno - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tekno-RC-...item460f3659b5
Tekno offer the carrier for the larger bearings and its cheaper, but uses dogbone on one side, as opposed to MIP where CVD on both side. Just wanted to know anyone has used Tekno and is it durable?
#5
I used to go through plastic shafts quite often, rears lasting maybe a dozen 3s packs with the vxl on my slash 4x4. I went with the teknos because I was also bending the stock metal axle shaft where it exits the outer bearing. I've also changed over to a MMM2650 combo since the upgrade and haven't had any issues whatsoever. The whole dogbone thing, it doesn't limit arm travel on my setup (stock height) and doesn't affect steering since it's diff-side. Honestly, either set would be a huge improvement. Also, I'd say go ahead and get fronts too, you'll likely notice more wear on the front plastic ones if you only get rears, transfer of energy to the weakest parts.
#8
I've not broken a carrier yet, and I do toss the truck around. As far as bashing abuse, it's been ramped off a sidewalk into a parking lot, getting only around 5ft of air but at around 45mph, clearing a good 20ft and landing in every possible way. The main driveshaft problem I was correcting was I was twisting the stockers where the plastic ears go over the metal u joint, due to traction and high power.