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Decided to convert to 1/5 scale. :)
Found a decent deal on ebay for a chassis extender kit, plus I wasn't getting what I would like on my savage on ebay, so I decided I'm gonna convert to Brushless (MMP1) and extend for a short-course monster!
Problem: I need a body. :lol: I will pony up eventually But I want a basher, if anyone has one PLEASE let me know!! Also any suggestions are taken under advisement. Thanks |
Well there's FG, RedCat 20" length wheelbase and there's Baja 23" wheelbase. If its Baja size PM me I have a unused clear 5T body that's gotta go.
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PM sent.
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Picture updates.
http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps1e0a184d.jpg http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps189ba6c3.jpg Like how it has ripped the back tire from the beadlock? LOL This thing is heavy and not agile... I think 15 pounds? http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...psaa9a8ae7.jpg And the story of this next picture is, the truck was biting really hard to the left on hard acceleration, but I was destined to get a good speed run and the next thing I know the truck is fishtailing like crazy and I couldn't overcome it. It was in like slow motion too :( it flipped slow and landed back on its wheels and this is what came of it.... My perfect chassis's first scratch.... http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps15fda722.jpg |
lol. 15lbs is light in 1/5 scale 4wd. Grab an MCD or Losi 5ive-T and workout! LOL
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Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 12085933)
lol. 15lbs is light in 1/5 scale 4wd. Grab an MCD or Losi 5ive-T and workout! LOL
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lol. Yeah, its definitely something different!
What are you running for axles and hexes? here are a couple of pics of mine: http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...B/DSCF7284.jpg http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...B/DSCF7286.jpg Also, what power setup are you using? |
Your stability issues could be helped by thickening the diff fluid. When the diff unloads a tire has lost traction, not the best for stability but the resulting tire ballooning can upset chassis balance. If the diffs weren't filled with grease, the fluid from its nitro days is too light for brushless power.
Another tip is to tape the tires to prevent ballooning. Some firmer foams or low profile tires will help it feel not so squirmy too. |
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 12086633)
lol. Yeah, its definitely something different!
What are you running for axles and hexes? here are a couple of pics of mine: http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...B/DSCF7284.jpg http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...B/DSCF7286.jpg Also, what power setup are you using? |
Originally Posted by Overdriven
(Post 12087480)
Your stability issues could be helped by thickening the diff fluid. When the diff unloads a tire has lost traction, not the best for stability but the resulting tire ballooning can upset chassis balance. If the diffs weren't filled with grease, the fluid from its nitro days is too light for brushless power.
Another tip is to tape the tires to prevent ballooning. Some firmer foams or low profile tires will help it feel not so squirmy too. I think my main problem is body roll... I need sway bars BAD |
Originally Posted by hellfiresavage7
(Post 12088889)
So far factory x axles are in it to my knowledge, I have some King rovan wheels/tires I am biddin on on ebay I already have the 24mm hexes on the way, I am running Mamba monster 1 with a castle 2200kV it has some serious power even on 4s, but I will need to upgrade batteries I don't think my 30c(per battery) discharge is enough. They were pretty toasty after about 15 minutes of cruising and hammering the throttle.
For batteries on 4S, I would say give either promatch 7200mah 80C 2S packs a look or the SMC 7200mah 70 packs a look. They are about $70 a pack, but worth it. Promatch has a 1 year warranty on them too. I use these exclusively now in my 1/10 vehicles since they are so good. Keep in mind with the Rovan tires they are going to be significantly heavier than any of the other MT tires, so you will want better batteries for sure. |
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 12089277)
lol I actually have a full set of the 24mm hexes sitting here that I won't be using. If you know anyone who wants a full set, feel free to let them know.
For batteries on 4S, I would say give either promatch 7200mah 80C 2S packs a look or the SMC 7200mah 70 packs a look. They are about $70 a pack, but worth it. Promatch has a 1 year warranty on them too. I use these exclusively now in my 1/10 vehicles since they are so good. Keep in mind with the Rovan tires they are going to be significantly heavier than any of the other MT tires, so you will want better batteries for sure. as for batteries, so anything over about 50c would suffice? |
lol no worries. The big thing you need to watch is that the little thread that you put the screw onto doesn't snap. I am assuming you are using the longer axles right?
if so, you may want to buy some bearings that will sit behind the hex and take up the space between the carrier and the hex. This will give the hex more support so it doesn't flex as much in relation to the little purple spacer and helps protect the threaded end of the axle. If you search for my album on google under Cainlord, you should be able to see pics of what I am talking about. If you have any machining ability, you may find going with a different 24mm hex like from the 5B, modifying it to slide over the axle and run a pin through it to be the strongest setup. I believe that is what wrong17 did. In the end I decided to just go with 17mm and 23mm hex wheels with his mod doing basically the same thing. I have heard you can even use aluminum tape to take up the extra space on a 24mm wheel and use the 23mm hexes. As for what batteries to use, you want to keep in mind C rating in relation to the mah as well to know how much draw the packs can take. a 100C Continuous (note here, not all batteries are rated the same) battery that is only 2000mah will only rate at 200A Versus a 5000mah battery at 50C will be 250A. with lower voltage levels, you will want higher C rated packs. So I would recommend getting a quality lipo that rates great when running these type of vehicles. Now is not the time to really cheapen out within reason. what batteries are you looking at exactly? |
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 12089403)
lol no worries. The big thing you need to watch is that the little thread that you put the screw onto doesn't snap. I am assuming you are using the longer axles right?
if so, you may want to buy some bearings that will sit behind the hex and take up the space between the carrier and the hex. This will give the hex more support so it doesn't flex as much in relation to the little purple spacer and helps protect the threaded end of the axle. If you search for my album on google under Cainlord, you should be able to see pics of what I am talking about. If you have any machining ability, you may find going with a different 24mm hex like from the 5B, modifying it to slide over the axle and run a pin through it to be the strongest setup. I believe that is what wrong17 did. In the end I decided to just go with 17mm and 23mm hex wheels with his mod doing basically the same thing. I have heard you can even use aluminum tape to take up the extra space on a 24mm wheel and use the 23mm hexes. As for what batteries to use, you want to keep in mind C rating in relation to the mah as well to know how much draw the packs can take. a 100C Continuous (note here, not all batteries are rated the same) battery that is only 2000mah will only rate at 200A Versus a 5000mah battery at 50C will be 250A. with lower voltage levels, you will want higher C rated packs. So I would recommend getting a quality lipo that rates great when running these type of vehicles. Now is not the time to really cheapen out within reason. what batteries are you looking at exactly? I have some 23mm hex's.. they are for my 40 series weld racing bead locks. And the batteries I have are 30c 5000 mah and they are almost as hot as the ESC and motor after just a few minutes. I actually haven't looked at batteries yet. I am still in the beginning stages of this conversion. Thanks for the info, I'm glad someone has gone through this so they know what's going on. |
Originally Posted by hellfiresavage7
(Post 12092131)
I have some 23mm hex's.. they are for my 40 series weld racing bead locks.
And the batteries I have are 30c 5000 mah and they are almost as hot as the ESC and motor after just a few minutes. I actually haven't looked at batteries yet. I am still in the beginning stages of this conversion. Thanks for the info, I'm glad someone has gone through this so they know what's going on. And, a lot of the temps you will see will depend on what you plan to use the vehicle for. Are you lots of high speed action or slower driving, etc. Me, I am thinking of making this more of a glorified rock racer or something to rumble over stuff with, so going with 4S setup on the same motor versus the 6S. |
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