savage flux motor

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Old 03-24-2013, 03:34 PM
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Default savage flux motor

Is the savage flux hp motor fine for 6s bashing and 5mm xl tvps in the summer with no overheating problem or should i get a 1520 i just dont know any suggestions are welcome
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:39 PM
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Mine ran fine for awhile. I don't think you'll see much difference going to the 1520. I went to the 1717, and noticed a huge difference. I could gear so much higher, and the motor wouldn't get hot on 6s. I ran my 2200 for a long time on 6s with no issue.

The xl tvps aren't going to cause an issue. It doesn't make the truck any heavier, or harder to move. It's when you add bigger tires and start wanting to gear up you start having temp issues.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:13 PM
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I thought the 1520 and 1717 were very similar in gearing wise and temps,also how did u fit a 1717 in ur savage?
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:45 PM
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The 1717 has a bigger diameter, but slightly shorter can. It's a 17 series, the others are 15 series.

I'm using tcs xl tvps with alza motor mount/clamps.

The 1717 only has 20 less kv, but the larger diameter makes it run cooler. A friend of mine has a flux with a 1518, and you can see the power difference between the 1518 and 1717.
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:52 PM
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Dude u made my day i thought the 1717 on fittit in a alza racing xl plates but now that i know all this it will be cheaper for me and also did u need to modify the chassis to fit it or direct bolt in with alza motor clamps, also whats ur gearing . And know i undstand the difference
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:11 PM
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Yeah, I had to shave the chassis to clearance the clamps and motor can, very slightly. And I only had to do that to gear up. I run 25/44 with the optional 39t idler as my bashing gearing, I also have 27 and 29t pinions when I feel like getting crazy. With the 25/44, its scary up top with the trenchers. I also have phatlines I run for on road bashing.

If me and my buddy are cruising along at the same speed and we both punch it, his truck will rock back onto the wheelie bar. Mine will backflip at almost any speed.

I sure hope you have the batteries and drivetrain mods to hold the power.
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:15 PM
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Do u mind posting a pic so i can see where u grinded and so i can see how it looks
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:43 PM
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I should have some pics around, right now, its back to the 2200kv because I tore the 1717 apart for repair. Last time out, something must have flexed because I noticed the motor wire insulation was split where it come out of the motor.
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:49 PM
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Here's a pic of it with the 2200, you can't see the grinding either because its a shitty picture.

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Old 03-24-2013, 06:58 PM
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Do u think u can send me a better pic of where u grinded no offence or dnt take it wrong, also does it weaken the chassis
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:05 PM
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No, it doesn't weaken it at all. The chassis is only 3mm thick where the screws go through, so those will be your weakest points. I ground the inside just a touch, because the 29t pinion gear would cause the motor clamps to contact the chassis.
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:21 PM
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Ok, so u grinded the top part of the motor space?
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:24 PM
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Yes, I took about 10mm off that top bar that runs along side the motor.
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:24 PM
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And to fit 1717 you need alza racing motor clamp and alza xl motor plate or did u use stock motor plate?
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:23 PM
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Do u need the alza racing motor plate too or stock will work
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