Savage 25

Old 03-16-2013, 12:21 PM
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Default Savage 25

Im not sure what section to post this but Im sure i'll target the right people with the answers here

i'm talking to 2 guys on craigslist locally and one has a savage 25 stock RTR

and the other Savage 21 "used a few times" 3 yrs ago but its been on shelf for so long hes not sure if things like batts / glow plug still work...but he knows nothing is broken. he just never got into it back then.

how much should i pay for either one? Savage 25 one is wanting $150. and savage 21 wants $140
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Old 03-16-2013, 01:05 PM
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I think they are basically the same, just the 25 is a bit newer and has a bigger motor.
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Old 03-16-2013, 01:52 PM
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yep bigger motor if they are clean and start I would go 125/100.
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Old 03-16-2013, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by copyright View Post
yep bigger motor if they are clean and start I would go 125/100.
That sounds about right
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Old 03-16-2013, 02:00 PM
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Thank you!
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Old 03-16-2013, 02:40 PM
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had the exact same deal with a .25 yesterday but guy wanted 300 because it was hardly used. Sorry to disappoint, waved a hundred in his face and he took it
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Old 03-16-2013, 03:43 PM
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That's what I thought. Low 100's...spoke with this guy with the .25 just now and he's firm at 150...but just like the other guy, he said its been years since he ran it so he might need bee plugs batts etc to start it...he tried to convince me that the Lhs told him he could sell it for 250-300 ...which I believe the Lhs will tell him that because they sell used tmaxx and rev0s for 700-900...I don't know who's crazy enough to go for them though.


Anyway, should I go for it for 150?
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Old 03-16-2013, 04:07 PM
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150 isn't bad but only if that engine is okay.

Have you seen the truck in person? Do you know if the engine can turn over at all?
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:20 PM
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I wanted to hear what y'all had to say first before meeting with him. 8)
Say it doesn't start for whatever reason, what other stuff can I test without it running? Differential etc?
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Old 03-16-2013, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Monster Flip View Post
I wanted to hear what y'all had to say first before meeting with him. 8)
Say it doesn't start for whatever reason, what other stuff can I test without it running? Differential etc?
Yep and the electronics
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Old 03-16-2013, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Monster Flip View Post
I wanted to hear what y'all had to say first before meeting with him. 8)
Say it doesn't start for whatever reason, what other stuff can I test without it running? Differential etc?
Ok, first make sure the radio works. Pull the throttle, push the brakes, turn the wheels back and forth. this is also a good time to see if the brakes work at all, if they don't that is $20 you have to spend for new ones. When you turn the wheels listen for any clicking from the steering. If it does then the steering servo has to be replaced and that could be another $50. It is normal for the truck to have a good amount of play in the steering, the stock linkages are not very tight.

If he can't start the engine, reach in through the side of the truck with your finger under the exhaust and turn the flywheel. The flywheel is mounted on the front of the engine under the carb, it is a silver cast aluminum wheel with ridges around the perimeter. Turn it with your finger, it should have a "pinch" to it. At the top of every rotation the piston should be squeezed inside the engine to seal it and make compression, if the flywheel spins freely then offer the guy like $80 and don't pay more than $100 for it. Same goes if the flywheel will not spin at all, if it doesn't spin then that means the engine is seized and you need a new engine. Ideally it should be pretty hard for your finger to get past the pinch. DO THIS WITH FUEL IN THE ENGINE. Sometimes a bad engine with no fuel in it (ie no lubrication) can trick you into thinking it has compression.

some other things to look for are the differentials, lift up the truck by the rear bumper (leave the front tires on the ground) and spin one of the rear wheels. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction and the action should be smooth. If there is clicking or crunching or a lot of resistance then offer him $100 for the truck. do the same for the other wheels.

You should also have him take the tires off. A common problem for these Savage's is the wheel hexes and wheel hubs. They are hexagonal and 14mm (I think from flat to flat) and they were always a weak spot. Look at the inside of the wheel and if the hub looks rounded out then knock $30-40 off the price.

The transmission is rock solid, I can almost guarantee it is not broken.

One-way bearings are another common problem. These truck have electric starts, if he tries to start it and the starter just free spins (doesn't turn the engine over) then knock $20 off the price.

If everything here is a problem, don't bother with the truck. any more than two problems, don't bother. It will be a big hassle for a beginner.
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