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E-Maxx gets some new parts

E-Maxx gets some new parts

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Old 02-21-2013, 04:31 AM
  #16  
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that sucks man, the way the cvd is bent it looks like it got jammed up againt the drive cup, maybe like you mentioned that your cvds need to sit deeper in the drive cups.
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:58 PM
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This thing really came to life with the new diffs and wheel combo... It flips so fast its stupid! There's not much bumper to ride cause the tires are so tall, lol. I straightened out the axle and ran it for 2 mins before I punched it while it was rolling around 10mph and it almost did a complete back flip. Titanium shoots cool white sparks
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:29 AM
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nice tires, lol
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:00 PM
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What diffs are those that you put in would like to upgrade mine on my emaxx
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:17 AM
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Unlimited Engineering diffs
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:10 AM
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Full UE diffs or just the casing with something else?

I've had a gut full of trying to get working diffs. I run 6S. Ironically, the stock diffs held up fine after shimming, the FLM 1/8 hybrids however, have been a joke. I've been through three of the supplied 1/8 diffs that come with the FLM hybrids (I believe they are caster racing?) and all of them have had the spider gears destroyed with less than 5min run time.

So I'm currently trying to suss the best diffs to drop into the hybrid bulks. After that I suspect I will have no more problems as everything else has been doing fine;

Tekno Axle Carriers
LST2 Axles
FLM Chasis
FLM Shock Towers
UE Supermaxx Shocks
Proline Big Joes on Axial 8 spoke wheels
Savox Monster Torque servo @ 7.4v

It's all pretty well good to go, it's just those damn diffs.
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:21 AM
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I bought them used advertised as full UE diffs but as far as I understand, UE uses ofna diffs. They seem to have good fit between the ring and pinion but I haven't been able to really test them as I don't have CVDs that will hold up.

I think they will last. A center diff would be my last resort to help distribute the power.

The fit finish on the ue case is top notch and I think that contributes to the durability, I can'tspeak for FLM. When RPM fixes their bulks, Im buying a set!
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Old 06-23-2013, 06:45 AM
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The two still assembled were up front. The other one was in the rear and I can't find the 4th shaft, may have already thrown away. The UE shafts seem to be holding up.
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Old 06-23-2013, 02:18 PM
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That kind of bending happens when the dog comes out of the drive cup and gets jammed against the casing. This is why TRX sells extended length drive cups for use with the TRX steel driveshafts on the Maxx and Revo.

I run plastic shafts on my E-Maxx. FLM Hybrids with the Caster original diffs, 5S LiPo. I think I've broken 2 shafts ever, and both times were something stupid I did.

Edit: Steel center driveline, however. The plastic shafts _cannot_ handle brushless in the center.
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:55 AM
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Also remember that the 1717 on 5s is an absolute torque monster! The massive wheels dont help and I lock my slipper. I like full time 4wd. I am thinking 500k in the rear diff will work good. Not sure whats in the front but its working great so Ill just leave it alone for now. Feels like its shimmed properly too.

I destroy plastic shafts at the U-joints just pulling wheelies on pavement and the plastic drive shafts dont fit between the shocks on my UE arms. All is good with UE cvds now but I blew up a rear diff. I bought these used on ebay and they are not in that good of condition... ring and pinion look great but I ended up breaking the pin that holds the two big spider geras in the diff and screwing up the internals.

Just picked this up, hope it fits in my 7.5 cases.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141099184082...84.m1497.l2649

Might also be switching to AE rear buggy shocks all the way around with UE springs
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:50 AM
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Wich tires are that one the white wheels, mounted on the car?

Originally Posted by Brokenparts View Post



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Old 11-17-2013, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Brokenparts View Post
Also remember that the 1717 on 5s is an absolute torque monster! The massive wheels dont help and I lock my slipper. I like full time 4wd. I am thinking 500k in the rear diff will work good. Not sure whats in the front but its working great so Ill just leave it alone for now. Feels like its shimmed properly too.

I destroy plastic shafts at the U-joints just pulling wheelies on pavement and the plastic drive shafts dont fit between the shocks on my UE arms. All is good with UE cvds now but I blew up a rear diff. I bought these used on ebay and they are not in that good of condition... ring and pinion look great but I ended up breaking the pin that holds the two big spider geras in the diff and screwing up the internals.

Just picked this up, hope it fits in my 7.5 cases.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141099184082...84.m1497.l2649

Might also be switching to AE rear buggy shocks all the way around with UE springs
The Spyder diff you linked will fit in the UE cases, they were designed for the Spyder diffs. I would not put 500k in them though, that will basically lock the diff. The only time you lock (or run fluid that heavy) a front or rear diff is when running on really low traction surfaces like sand or mud. 500k in your rear diff will make the truck hard to turn on the grass and street I've seen your truck run on. It'll also be really hard on the diff, the drive cups, the cvd's, the hexes (stripped wheels), etc.
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:52 PM
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I understand that but also think that the massive wheels and tires have a lot of leverage on the diff. What seems heavy on a normal wheel/tire combo will feel litter with the bigger wheels and tires. I have 100k here, I will try that. I wanted to try it because the mechanic at our LHS had 500k in a new center diff in his truggy and it felt good just spinning it by hand. It was not in the truck.

I have accepted this is going to be tough on parts!
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:53 PM
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Those are Imex clawdawgs for the clod/txt mounted on Monster Pirate wheels. I dont think they make them anymore so you would have to keep an eye out on ebay. I think they were Jumbo Clawdawgs if I am not mistaken.
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:32 PM
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You are right about needing thicker fluid for the big tires. If we were talking about Traxxas diffs I'd be agreeing with you about trying the 100k since Traxxas diffs need thicker fluid than 1/8 diffs, although 100k is probably still too high. Also center diffs need thicker fluid because they're more likely to unload and balloon the front tires. The front or rear diffs need lighter fluid so the tires on each axle can turn at different rates when cornering. Otherwise the truck won't turn well and when it does the tires will waste traction fighting the diff when that traction should be used for cornering. FYI my LST is on 6.89" tall Trenchers and I run 30k front with 20k rear for better turn in and I don't have any issue with the diff unloading power to the inside rear tire. In fact one of my favorite things to do is pitch the truck into a turn sideways and power through shooting roost.

Just sharing my thoughts and experiences. Diff fluids are unique to each vehicle, it's setup and the driver's preferences so you gotta experiment. Keep us updated.
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