23MM HD Proline
 

Need help for proline 23mm hex anybody using this how to use the shim washer where to put and how many am I we going to use for LST and REVO

washer
 

For my revo I think I put 3 on each wheel behind the axle pin.
hope this helps

On my LST I'm running 2 washers inside the hub and 2 on the outside between the bearing and the pin. That spaces things out a bit better than running all 4 on the outside.

Be warned.....the torque on the LST will shear the drive pins with the 23mm hex drives! I've lost 3 already. Looking for hardened ones now.

I have a revo and they require 4 washers behind each pin
pin fits nice and snug i also used blue loctite on the pin :cool:

I have the mip axles on my lst and I have all the shims on my axles and there is still a little play.

I keep blowing out the outer hub bearing with these hex's. Not sure why but I'm also going through pins like crazy, I do locktite the axle nut and the big blue hex nut. I'm thinking about going back to the stock hex's with the traxxas rims.

On the Savage they fit straight on, don't require shims and don't break the drive pins either. They solve the problem of dodgey wheel hexs on the 40 series wheels, thus enabling savage users to race on reliable, light-weight wheels and 40 series tyres.

The only thing to watch is HPI axles - very occasionally you'll find an axle that simply doesn't fit the 23mm Hex, due to poor tolerances on the axle. If you're unlucky enough to have an axle like this (slightly oversiszed just below the thread) the only viable solution is to replace the axle. Ensure that the hex fits flush fully over the drive pin on the replacement axle.

hey guys

i was having the same problems when i went to the hard anodized wheel hexes from losi and then when i went to the hd hubs, i called losi on it and they told me to put lock tight on the axle all the way around where thenut will sit and to be generous with it too.he said the most important part was to NOT kill the nut just tighten it snuggly and the locktight will hold it, well i havent been doing this long but i was always told to really firm up the nut when putting the wheels on i tried it and problem solved no more busted pins just wanted to pass on what worked for me
thanks
steven

Are you running 4 shims behind the pin?If so try 3 thats how I ran them on my revo and they seemed to be fine,that was before the revo special wheels came out runnin the wide offsets,I didnt like how they made the truck handle so I sold them :weird: A guy at my track was running 23`s with titanium axles broke the axles like pretzels :rolleyes: :eek: :D

The pins break because the 23mm hex is being bottomed out against the pin. You need to shim the axle to the point where that small lip around the center of the rear of the hex is against the outermost shim, don't tighten the hex down against the pin. You don't need any hardened pins if you set the assembly up correctly, and don't overtighten those axle nuts. I posted at MV bashers about braking pins, eating bearings, and losing 23mm hex nuts if you care to read it. http://mvbashers.proboards21.com/ind...ead=1117293871

Shimming the axle to the point that the 'lip'of the adapter is contacting the shims is putting the bearings in a bind because there is nothing physically to keep the space between the bearings equal at all times only the pin and the shims behind it :tire: To many shims =binding,early bearing failure,stripped threads,broken/bent axles :mad: :deathstar Not enough shims=Possibility of bent/broken axles,Broken pins :mad: :deathstar When done you should feel just a tick of play,No more ,No less.The PIN is the weak link in this setup :( I had a LOSI XXX-T and there were these spacers that went in the front wheels to keep the space between the bearings the same all the time thats what the REVO needs :tire: