cmbscx10

iTrader: (17)

Parts are rolling in. ESC & Motor Arrived. Waiting on stupid USPS to deliver my XXL. The fun should begin this weekend.

cmbscx10

iTrader: (17)

I tried the Lexan plate int he back for the ESC but i thought it was too flexible so i made one from a sheet of .093 Aluminum. It's Slightly more rigid but if it doesn't work ill make one out of thicker material. I cut down and used the front fuel tank posts for additional support.

Deciding on which way to mount the ESC. Motor wires in the back or off to the side. Opinions?

Need to pick up some misc. hardware but moving forward and will update with more pics.

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

The 1/8 Lexan I used is flexible but in smaller pieces like I made and when it's bolted down it doesn't flex at all and the esc doesn't move. Your thin aluminum should be fine and you should be able to get nuts on the screws for the esc mount as well. Just trim the legs of the esc mount a little. On the stock plastic chassis there's a recess the esc mount goes into so the legs are longer than needed when there's no recess. Just put the esc in the mount and trim the legs until they're even with the bottom of the esc.

I'd mount the esc with the motor wires in the back, it's a more natural flow for the battery wires. If you braid or twist the motor wires together the right way they'll be off to one side of the esc cleaning up the lines and giving better access to the esc switch. Experiment with twisting the motor wires together and facing the esc in different directions, you'll find something you like. And dont forget you can rotate the motor 90 degrees so the motor wires face to the rear. It might help for a particular position and you can always zip tie the motor wires to the chassis when they face to the rear.

muney

iTrader: (5)

Guys,

Is there any quick way of attaching this circular spring clip onto the servo saver.. It's doing my head in

cmbscx10

iTrader: (17)

Other than compressing it past the opening to give it a little more tension i am of no help.

cmbscx10

iTrader: (17)

I have got to the point of waiting for my FO tranny. Should be here next week. Sucks you can't install/remove the tranny without the rear suspension etc being removed or is it just me?

Used the Servo Tabs to mount a Tekno Battery Tray. I countersunk the screws and i will cover the battery tray floor with gorilla duct tape as i normally do.

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

Looking good. The trans can be removed without removing the rear suspension but you do still need to get the rear center shaft out of the trans drive cup. The easiest way is by removing the rear diff, it's only 6 screws and easier than removing the entire suspension.

First on the rear skid plate remove the 2 rear most screws, then the long bumper brace screw and remove the rear bumper/skid plate. The plastic hingepin plate the bumper brace attaches to has 4 screws, remove them and the aluminum hinge pin holder. There are 2 blocks in the bulkhead by the diff out drives that are held in by friction and the hingepin plate you just removed. Now just slide the diff back until the center shaft comes out of the trans outdrive, there should be just enough room before the axles hit the shocks. To get the diff totally out you'll need to remove the lower shock screws and swing them out of the way in order to get enough clearance to get the axles out of the diff outdrives.

cmbscx10

iTrader: (17)

OD,
Thanks for detailed tips. Makes perfect sense. I bought the Manual online but it is better as a fire starter than a manual. Since it is technically a RTR it is understandable.

Being that the whole back end is out i wanted to change the Diff fluid. What do you guys recommend? 100k F/R?

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

100k is too thick for a front or rear diff, it's more for center diffs. On the now defunct LST forums most guys with big brushless power run 20k-40k. I run 30k rear while the front is 30k with a little 50k mixed in for somewhere around 35k. While you've got it apart make sure the diffs have good mesh with as little play as possible between the ring and pinion gears. Shim them up if necessary as play in the drivetrain just makes it easier for brushless power to eat drivetrain parts.

cmbscx10

iTrader: (17)

Transmission
Received my Trans yesterday. Opened up the package, gave it a spin and did not like the way it felt so took it apart. The grub screws for the cups definitely had loctite on them. Way harder to get off than Red Loctite. Losi Kudos on that part. After splitting the case no wonder it didn't feel right. I spit more on a long desert hike than the amount of grease that was in there. (See Pics) Come on Losi. That would have been a Trans failure in the near future. I cleaned it and used my trusty secret sauce called Black-n-Tacky. Have ran that stuff is my last 5 rigs with zero signs of wear on the R&P or Trans Gears.


Back Spur Cover
Trimmed it to fit the battery tray and then realized the pinion would hit. Instead of cutting it up and basically making it useless, i will ditch it for now and make some later.


ESC Mounting
Did a rough mock up and the ESC with the motor wires facing backwards and that was a no go for gear mesh. The wires were taught and i was not even close to getting mesh. The motor wires are too short even rotating the motor 90degrees. Pulled it off and remounted. (See Pics)



Single Speed Spur Adapter
Very very happy with this piece. No complaints at all.


Motor Mount
Very Very nicely machined piece. Easy to rotate motor to set mesh. Go to tighten the motor down and BAM! How the Fawk do you tighten the motor down after setting the mesh? The damn pinion covers both screws. I guess ill have to set the mesh, remove the pinion, tighten down the motor and hope the mesh is correct when i install the pinion again. I had to walk away for a little bit. TDR's seems to be the same and any motor mount that i could find. Maybe i am just a ding dong which is probably the case and the way it is done.

Pinion Mesh
I bought a Tekno 25T pinion and i am not sure if it is the correct one. On gear mesh mock up, in-order to get the pinion and spur lined up evenly the pinion the pinion is very very close to the motor mount. I can't go in any farther without hitting the mount. I tried rotating the pinion but the shaft is not long enough to get a good bit on the grub screw. At $12 a pop i don't want to get another brand of pinion to find out it won't work. What are you guys using? Is what i have with the camera angles ok?

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

So the pinion is hitting the mount? Maybe grind a little off the pinion for clearance. If you can't do that then you can space the spur out a bit. Take the spur off the single speed hub and put some small washers between the spur and the hub.

With such a big pinion it can be hard to get to the motor screws, you're right about having to take the pinion off to tighten the motor screws. But you don't have to crank down on the pinion grub screw, just make it snug so you don't end up moving the motor when you take it back off.

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

All LST motor mounts (except the Losi kit's mount) raise the motor position resulting in the pinion hitting the gear cover. I don't think the cover is necessary but I like the way it looks with it. If you drill some new holes in the cover and the chassis side rails you can just rotate the cover. With mine this either wasn't possible, not very easy or I didn't like the way it looked I forget which so I ended up modifying my gear cover. I cut the outer cover along the corner above the pinion. Then I used some heat to reshape it for pinion clearance. The resulting hole was filled in with a piece of scrap Lexan epoxied in place. The inner cover is modified in a similar way. It's not perfect, I'd never tried heating and reshaping that kind of plastic before but I'm happy I was able to do it. I'd like to do something different with the cover to get rid of the wrinkles but I don't think that's really possible unless I try it again with a new cover or make my own. I think a metal cover would be too heavy for my tastes though and I'm not quite ready to build a vacuum former just to make a new cover!

cmbscx10

iTrader: (17)

OD,
Thanks for the suggestions. Sometimes walking away is a good thing. I had my buddy who actually sold me the LST contact the seller of my mount as he has the same one. I did as you described and stated and the ebay seller confirmed it. Loosely mount the pinion, set mesh, pull pinion, tighten motor down, install pinion, check mesh and lock it down. I am good to go now.

Since i had to install the ESC a different way, i now need servo and ESC power extensions which of course i don't have. The LHS is 45min away so ill either order them or pick them up later in the week. In the meantime i'll program the ESC, install my Rx, put some power to the electronics and clean up some wiring.

I'm almost their. Maybe a maiden this weekend. If not, for sure next week and i'll post up a vid.

cmbscx10

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the Gear cover option. I do think it is needed in the terrain i run in so i'll take all tips and come up with something soon. I also have had no luck with forming Lexan. I can form Kydex for holsters, knife sheaths and have formed styrene with decent success on RC's but no way an i doing a vacuum form.

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

I can heat and bend thick Lexan no problem, it's how I made my battery tray. The thin stuff is harder and it also needed to be stretched a little to clear the pinion gear. I don't know what the black plastic is but that wasn't any easier.

I'll probably end up cutting the wrinkled part out and using Lexan trimmings from rc bodies to form the new section. No heating required but you'll see where the new section meets the old (I'm not smoothing a gear cover with body filler!) and I'm not sure if that'll look better or worse than what I have now.