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LST XXL brushless

LST XXL brushless

Old 02-22-2013, 08:25 AM
  #31  
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I really don't see the need for the E-conversion bevel gears with the 2200kv motor, even on 4s. With 4s/2200kv 25/63 gearing, XXL bevels, stock XXL tires you're at 48mph. You can also do the "flip mod" in the trans for free, XXL bevels with flip mod is basically the same as e-conversion bevels without flip mod and would put you at 52mph with everything same as above.

If it was me I'd run 4s 2200, 25/63, XXL bevels to start. My nephews LST is setup 4s/2200kv, 25/63, LST/aftershock bevels, XXL tires for 43mph. He's 10, but it's still quick and needs punch control to tame the wheelies a bit. With no punch control it'll pull rolling wheelies, not from 30mph like 5s or 6s would but it's still got power.

If you're wondering why I chose 25/63, 63t is stock XXL spur, 25t pinion is smallest you can use with Losi mount and you could use the 25t pinion with a 66t spur to slow it down if needed. The TDR or a custom mount should be able to use a smaller pinion with either spur if needed.
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:48 PM
  #32  
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Any suggestion for LiPo charger and LiPo pack?

I'm thinking of going for 1x 4S LiPo pack vs 2x 2S setup since 4S will be my default setup but would like to try 5S - 6S too. Any pros/cons?

Is the Hyperion Eos720I Net 3 Ac/Dc worth the money?
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:38 PM
  #33  
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Ive had 3 of these for almost 2 years and they have been nothing but trouble free.http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...Lipo_Pack.html. Theyve had hundereds of charges and still peak.also get between 15-30 mins a pack depending on how may beers ive had...A charger is tuff question,really depends on your budget.Ive had the Venom charger(the older green one) and it also is still working great..my 2c
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:29 PM
  #34  
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Thanks for the input chris. Just posted my order for the LiPo. Still can't decide on charger

Less $20 on Turnigy 4S 5000mAh 40C
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:05 AM
  #35  
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LST XXL brushless-losi-lst-xxl-....jpghey guys i just bought a Losi LST XXL roller and i plan on converting it to Brushless using the Losi kit LOSB 0017. is this the best kit? and can you run a single steering servo or am i stuck running duals??
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:03 PM
  #36  
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There's lots of info about the Losi kit in this thread and others. But the kit does have some limitations, gearing, 42mm diameter motors only and the motor mount holds heat in since it encloses the motor and doesn't contact it preventing it from acting as a heatsink. Also the battery tray should be mounted up front IMO and the bevel gears included in the kit should be used with a motor that has about 1600kv. You also still need to buy a single speed hub as the kit doesn't come with one, the Losi hub is about $15. The Dude Racing (TDR) mount is the best available, it's pricey but you get what you pay for.

The LST has servo mounted servo savers and dual is really the only option since there aren't any available that are strong enough when using only one. There are some guys that use a single servo without a servo saver. But you need a strong servo and have to retain the plastic bellcranks to provide a little flex and a breaking point. I use a Hitec Robot servo, HSR5980SG I believe, with steel gears and havent had an issue in the 2 years running it without a servo saver. But the stock JR590's with stock savers work really well of you use an external Bec and set the voltage to 6.0volts. My nephews LST is setup like this and while the stock savers do flex, it'll still turn the wheels on the ground no problem and the response while driving is pretty darn good. MGT servo savers are stiffer than LST, I don't know the part number for the ones with JR servo splines though.

Last edited by Overdriven; 03-08-2013 at 09:09 PM. Reason: Damn autocorrect
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:23 PM
  #37  
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Good info there. But jeeze the LST's sound like a PIA to convert..
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:42 AM
  #38  
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Not really , the Losi conversion is all bolt on and pretty easy to do IMO . Though if I did it again I would get the Dude's motor mount and fab up my own battery try setup .....
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:48 AM
  #39  
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I dunno'.. Buy and install kit, buy and install FOC kit(remove and disassemble tranny), buy and install single-speed hub, etc.. And on top of that you're limited in motor choice if it's 42mm only..,the motor mount and battery tray are apparently problematic, and so on..
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:50 PM
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LSt's arent that bad to convert but they do require research and planning the combination beforehand. The big pain with LST's is gearing for certain motor kv and voltage combinations. The Losi kit works if you do everything like they want you too. It was designed for their 1300-1700kv motors on 5s or less. Put in a 2200kv on 6s and you're not going to be able to gear the Losi kit down enough to prevent overheating during normal running. The TDR mount solves this problem but it's pricey compared to the Losi kit.

Most motors for 1/8 use are 42mm diameter or less so this isn't really an issue with the Losi kit. The battery tray is easily moved up front too with some hardware and a drill bit.
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:27 PM
  #41  
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Default LST XXL Brushless

ok conversion is done but the truck keeps breaking... is this the ways they are? i have Titanium gears,aluminum diff cups,aluminum diff housings and titanium trans gears and spur. i am running a NEU/Castle 2200kv motor and MM esc on 4s,gearing of 63t spur/15t pinion motor temps are 92-112 truck has tons of power wheelies and flips but diffs have blown 2x each on flat ground. Does anyone know where i can get 2 Aluminum diff retaners??? i put the truck on my RC dyno and they flex so bad i replaced them with brand new stock ones and got the same result, massive flex the front pinion will hit the steering arm flexes so bad. HELP or else i will convert the LST XXL into a MUGGY and i know they hold up great,i have a few of them lol
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:02 PM
  #42  
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maybe this can give you some idea/assistance.

Justification: The torque of the BL in an LST is very high...so you have to 'beef-up' a few places.

1. Chassis Brace - change the crappy stock with a dynamite chassis brace..this will prevent a whole lot of flexing at the center.

2. Get the HD chassis one. the stock chassis will flex a lot at the front end and rear end (since point 1 has been done.)

3. With 1, 2 above done, all screw is best changed with mm (except the dynamite chassis brace which is US SAE inches)..and at some spots, at its weak spot - you must use drive the screw through the chassis using a long screw..bolt it down with a nut..this means from the bottom plate..there is a long screw through to the top, with a threaded nylon nut..just do this at the front end and back end of the chassis only..you dont have to do it for all of them.

this means you have to drill the chassis using the right size drill bit(size of the screw), and drill the stock plastic side chassis using a drill bit slightly smaller than the thickness of the screw...

I use M3(3mm) screw on those weak spots..4 on the front and 4 on rear with the front most(or rear most) goes through the chassis.

Someone did post a video of this mod some years ago..i did mine based on weak points, and some I use M3 screws instead of the regular M2 screws...same concept as above..

4. on diff..i had the same problem until i did this mod..my E-LST2 diffs are now coming close to 2nd year with pinion and crown only changed once..now all my diff nitro LST2 have the same mod, and it lasts under lots of hard bashing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rIurk_sKiU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uP-2gVTPyn8

I opt for option 2 in the video above.

hope it helps..it may be a PIA for some, for me, its fun doing the conversion/mod.
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Old 03-13-2013, 04:34 AM
  #43  
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im not worried about chassis flex. im having massive diff retainer flex and the diffs keep blowing and they are aluminum and titanium.
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:32 AM
  #44  
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Use the slipper clutch , it is there to absorb driveline torque ..... I have never broke a diff gear set and mine has been brushless for a couple years now .......

BTW those TiNi gears are not made out of Titanium , they have a coating of Titanium Nitride which is an anti wear/friction coating . They are no stronger than the stock gears ......
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:41 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by SavageFluxHPXL
im not worried about chassis flex. im having massive diff retainer flex and the diffs keep blowing and they are aluminum and titanium.
ic, ok, just sharing my experience on my E-LST2(and LST2)

i use both alloy diff retainer and stock plastic retainer on my LST2s including the E-LST2.

honestly speaking, i prefer the stock one because they dont wear that easy..whether alloy or stock, the trick is to ensure that it secure firmly both on the chassis as well as the diff itself at all times - both are very important. The problem that i had with the alloy one (maybe it is of a cheapo low grade alloy diff retainer that i bought from HK) is because the wear and tear on them is very high..in the end the alloy ring gotten thin and finally snapped. Not only that, the flat slot that goes into the chassis will get loose over time - due to wear and tear also..so now, i just switch it to stock plastic retainer...Again, the trick is - it must secure firmly all the time..and to do this, this is what i did every time, the entire diff gotten loose from the ring.

I just tape the diff(the part that goes into the ring) with the normal black electrical tape...stretched one round or two..cut off the excess tape and push it firmly in the ring.

note: the part of the alloy diff where it goes into the ring will also wear(maybe mine its because i did not use any (electrical)tape and its just alloy ring rubbing against alloy diff.)...nonetheless, secure it firm - retainer on chassis + diff.

another important thing: crown+pinion mesh is best firm, and not tight...move it left and right of the pinion and shim it until it is firm(tight)....i now use like 4-5 shims on the crown side of the diff cup - its an old diff cup. when new, only 1 shim is sufficient.

the mod on the diff cup that i did also helps prolong the bevel (1+ years already now).

Another important note: over time, the 4 screws that hold the crown will get unscrew due to vibration and stress. This will cause the crown/pinion mesh to be very loose..over time is like 6 months or so - depending on how extreme you put stress on the diffs and how often you service it.....just retighten it.

Another note: the tini crown is good and strong under stress. the tini pinion is not under the same stress - it gets rounded quite easily if mesh is not correct or crown gotten loose which causes mesh to be loose.... furthermore, the circumference of the pinion is small compared to the crown, probably thats one of the factor.

i use both tini and stock pinion/crown..after all the shimming and mods on the diffs that I did, the entire diffs now lasts me a long time regardless how hard i trash my LST2/E-LST2....PS, i now don't do wheelie that much on my E-LST2...

hope it helps.
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