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Tamiya Bruiser 2012 Build Log

Tamiya Bruiser 2012 Build Log

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Old 08-13-2012, 01:43 PM
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Default Tamiya Bruiser 2012 Build Log

Hey guys I have been building the Tamiya Bruiser 2012. Not sure if this is the right place to post my build log since most of you guys seem to be running 1/8th MT's but I figured maybe someone would be interested.

Since this truck is so damn expensive out of the box I decided to use parts that were available to me in my shop already instead of buying stuff just for it. So this is what I am doing

Radio - My MX11 I have worked the dial on Aux3 to move a servo that shifts gears

Servos - Pair of Traxxas Water Proof Digital Hi Torq Gears

Motor- I shoved a Titan 12T brushed into it I had around

ESC Novak Goat

Battery - A Venom 2s Lipo

Paint - I am going box art style this time. At least for a while. So it will be Tamiya X-4

PROBLEMS

I am pretty sure that everyone knows that the transmission on this thing is a monster. So it took me 3 tries to get everything going. I had it on blocks the whole time. Switched smooth through all gears using the radio. But when I put it on the ground it turns out that in 4x4 mode the front wheels go backward! Luckily I just had the axles reversed





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Old 08-13-2012, 06:07 PM
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Ok so here are some pics from the beginning body work. Like I said prior I am working on it full box art style so I am going to be laying the paint down with an Airbrush.

Painting Gear
Paint: Tamiya X-4 Blue
Tamiya Thinner
Airbrush Medium
Iwata Airbrush
Paasche Compressor with Tank
Green Modeling Filler

I assembled the body as per the instructions with the screws. Not a big fan of that look so I am going to be filling in the wholes to give the body a seamless look. Also I am debating on using a rare earth magnet mounting system for the body. That way I can have an entirely hole free mount.

To start a begin with a light base coat of the X-4

I do this to help me find imperfections in the mold. Some people say use a gray primer to do this but the body was already white. The base white color will keep the X-4 pretty bright. Always start by airbrushing the grooves first. It will allow you too keep coverage complete in those spots but not overpaint the high points. Which would make your paint color strat to look one dimensional (flat).





Like I said before I hate the exposed screws. So I am grinding them down


http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/295490_268025849965409_220137003_n.jpg Then use the green filler to fill in the hole





Now with the light paint layer it makes other blemishes like mold lines pretty apparent.

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Old 08-13-2012, 08:34 PM
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That's looking like a really nice start to a fun project.
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Old 08-13-2012, 09:38 PM
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Is this gonna be a shelf queen????If not just wondering how your getting that body off if ya crack it?
Also did ya wet sand it first..._Prep is everything with hardbodies.

Last edited by nhmade; 08-13-2012 at 09:47 PM. Reason: bla
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by hotrod87 View Post
That's looking like a really nice start to a fun project.
Thanks man it has been a semi frustrating build because of all the transmission parts but that is half the fun.

Originally Posted by nhmade View Post
Is this gonna be a shelf queen????If not just wondering how your getting that body off if ya crack it?
Also did ya wet sand it first..._Prep is everything with hard bodies.
No its not going to be a shelf queen but I won't be rough bashing it either. This truck will be restricted to scale run videos :-) If I crack it I see a putty and sanding job in the future.

As for wet sanding in the pictures above I have not started it yet because I was doing the rough putty work. But last night I finished all the filler putty work so I wet sanded the body and applied a silver base coat.

The quick blue paint job I did above lets me locate the blemishes easier. I find trying to locate body irregularities on a white background way to hard.
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Old 08-14-2012, 05:07 PM
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Ok since I am filling in all of the post holes I have to use a magnet mounting system, I am using rare earth magnets that I am cutting down to size.



Then I mounted them in side of the body





I removed the rear posts so I could mount magnets to them



I did that by actually mounting screws into the original holes. The top mount of the screw made it easy for glue to hold the magnets to the metal and allowed me to adjust the height

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Old 08-15-2012, 05:07 PM
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So I got a bit distracted because I realized how much the stock Tamiya tires really stank. So I went and replaced them with a set of proline mashers. They still keep the truck looking close to the box art. But the improved rubber will make the truck actually drive better. The stock Tamiya ones are just too hard to get good traction.

For now I kept the stock wheels because I don't want to upgrade any axle components to switch the hubs over to something that can handle a standard hex. Not saying I won't. Also if I do it is going to really skyrocket how much this truck is costing to build and I havent even looked at the overall performance. I am sure some mods will have to be done and parts purchased to make it handle better and I don't want to waste more than 200 bucks to add nice wheels. This truck is already pretty pricy



Love the look of the new tires and they actually bend :-)

After I got that out of the way I finished up the body work.

Ok so here is a pic of the body after it has been completely finished with screw holes all filled in.



The body has also had multiple wet sandings done and multiple aluminum undercoats. Each one slightly buffed to give the under coat a metalic look. If you are not familiar with this painting technique, by applying a shiny metallic basecoat to a plastic body it will show through the upper color coats and make the color coat look more metallic.

I don't think this technique will work if you are using rattle cans (spray paint) because I think the paint will go on to thick.

In the above pic the last thing I have to do is rescribe the bottom door panel line because it is a bit off from the putt fillers.

But hey no screw and post holes is awesome
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:27 PM
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ok so I finished the base coat and wet sanded and sealed the main body color. The I added 1 clear coat then wet sanded it again then 1 more clear coat so I would have a really smooth surface for the vinyle decalso to get put on.

I cut the vinyl as close as I could to the graphics with a razor knife then layed them on. I used a small flat metal tool to make sure there were no bubbles. Any that I found were released with a super thin insulin needle to lower the graphic.

I have a few more vinyl graphics to add then I will apply 3 more clear coats wet sanding with basically a buffing cloth between each.

This is how it looks





And here it is with mounted on the body connected with the magnet system. Looks great and you don't get that rattle of the body when it is moving around.







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Old 08-16-2012, 08:32 PM
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That looks great man
I wish i have the patience to make something like that lol
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:00 AM
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what a great project. i hope i have patience like you,too
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Old 08-17-2012, 05:35 AM
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ha ha trust me it is always a struggle, sometimes you just want to rush it so you can drive it around. To placate that I usually take the body off and tool around a bit. Plus time is always tight with 3 kids and a job
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Old 08-20-2012, 05:27 PM
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Ok so I got some quality time on the Bruiser build this weekend. I started by working on the sleeper cab. Didn't really see anything that I could modify or add to it to make the cab more detailed without taking away the overall box art look of the truck. Which would have made me miss the goal of this build.

So to make the sleeper windows I used some silly putty and airbrushed it a Tamiya Flat black. I usually use flat colors when I know I will be over spraying the entire truck with a lacquer. I find that glossy colors can make the lacquer orange peel while everything stick better to the flat ones



After removing the mask if there are any spots that need a touch up I will use a 00 brush or a sharpy to fix them. No matter how hard I try there is always something that needs to be touched up after. Not really anything that someone would see in photos but I see it when I hold the model so it annoys me.

Now most people will know that the Tamiya Bruiser is actually modeled after the Toyota Hilux RN36 that truck was a small utility truck and was low on the bling. I figured if someone had customized a truck like the Tamiya Bruiser they were looking for a show truck so they would have spruced it up a bit. So even though a stock RN36 had a completely black out grill I decided to high light it in silver to make it pop a bit more.

To do this I don't use a brush I find it way to difficult to make sure I only hit the raised portions. So I tightly roll up some napkin and lock it into a pair of forceps.



You can also use a good paint parking to do it as well. Just make sure to use a very light pressure with the paint sufficiently thinned. This is a Tamiya Acrylic Chrome which looks great. Arguably you could get a much nicer Aluminum effect with an oil based paint because you can buff it. If I using this effect on something with a large surface area like a model plane i would but a grill this should work just fine.



Here the grill is done after some minor touch ups and I also put the decal Hilux logo in. Man the logo is ugly. I tried to trim as much clear vinyl away as possible but it still showed up. I have metal badges on the way but for the mean time I will touch up the vinyl decal so I can keep working on the truck until they get here. More pics to come later
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Old 08-20-2012, 05:38 PM
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Nice paint job!!! Keep up the good work
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:26 AM
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Thanks!
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:40 AM
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That looks awesome man great work on the painting and the truck looks like a blast how is it to drive
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