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-   -   My First Savy (https://www.rctech.net/forum/monster-trucks/648950-my-first-savy.html)

Kingclod27 07-25-2012 06:43 PM

My First Savy
 
Hey everybody, Ive been trolling thru the forum looking at everyones cool trucks and all the great info you guys offer and I figured it was time to post my baby up...

I picked this up from a friend a month or so ago. He was selling it for under $200 shipped and its in great shape.. all he did was break in the motor and ran 2 or 3 tanks thru the truck. Came with the original box, manual, roto start, glow igniter, extra new glow plugs, and tools. I think I got a good deal.

I plan on doing sum bashing and MT style racing with my Savage so I dont know wat upgrades I need to get. Thought about getting new breaks, new aluminum tuned pipe, better wheels and tires for racing, and that RD Logics aluminum fuel tank. Any other Suggestions???

anyway enough Jibber Jabber and here is sum pics....

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/...7-16145903.jpg
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/...7-16145728.jpg
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/...7-16145744.jpg
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/...7-16150019.jpg
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/...7-16150030.jpg
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/...7-16150132.jpg
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/...7-16150219.jpg



Here is a quick vid I made awhile back...


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

LSVTIEG 07-25-2012 08:19 PM

You got a good deal. The upgrades are limitless for that thing. I would get a better stronger steering servo, rpm arms, integy rear hub carriers, golden horizon bell crank, ofna throttle mod, flux or xl bp diffs & shim them, extended xl cups & dog bones, ditch the roto start for a pull start, lighter wheels & lower profile tires &last an ERCM modded motor & 221T end or side bleed pipe. Stay away from a lot of aluminum parts as they will bend. I know its a lot but that's what I would do.

LSVTIEG 07-25-2012 08:41 PM

Oh & your tune sounds a little off. Like you are running lean. I always start with the lsn once its up to temp & do a pinch test for a base setting. When you pinch the fuel line(close to the carb) it should stay running for 3-4 seconds before dieing. Any sooner & its too lean,any later & its rich. once you have a base setting on the lsn move on to the hsn. start with a stock setting of the colar even with the line & start leaning it out with small turns, about 1/12 at at a time until you don't see any more performance gains. Always make sure that you have smoke coming out the pipe.& try not to let temps get over 250- 260. If you don't have a temp gun, get one. Everyone has their own way of tuning, this is just how I do mine. Once you have the hsn set you can go back to the lsn if you want. when your lsn is set after a wot run bring it back & check it with the temp gun. Your temp should drop a degree every few seconds. Hope this helps if you don't already know how to tune.

hotrod87 07-25-2012 08:51 PM


Originally Posted by LSVTIEG (Post 11018262)
Oh & your tune sounds a little off. Like you are running lean. I always start with the lsn once its up to temp & do a pinch test for a base setting. When you pinch the fuel line(close to the carb) it should stay running for 3-4 seconds before dieing. Any sooner & its too lean,any later & its rich. once you have a base setting on the lsn move on to the hsn. start with a stock setting of the colar even with the line & start leaning it out with small turns, about 1/12 at at a time until you don't see any more performance gains. Always make sure that you have smoke coming out the pipe.& try not to let temps get over 250- 260. If you don't have a temp gun, get one. Everyone has their own way of tuning, this is just how I do mine. Once you have the hsn set you can go back to the lsn if you want. when your lsn is set after a wot run bring it back & check it with the temp gun. Your temp should drop a degree every few seconds. Hope this helps if you don't already know how to tune.

Wondering why you start with lsn ? I have always started with hsn once your good there then go to the lsn for a touch up. The hsn effects the lsn so if its done first it doesn't usually take much on the lsn.

LSVTIEG 07-26-2012 04:38 AM


Originally Posted by hotrod87 (Post 11018286)
Wondering why you start with lsn ? I have always started with hsn once your good there then go to the lsn for a touch up. The hsn effects the lsn so if its done first it doesn't usually take much on the lsn.

Because the hsn is as it states "high speed". By adjusting your lsn first you will get easier start ups & better take off from not being overly rich. But then again that's just me. To each his own. Many times I have read people talking about their motors dieing when they give it throttle after starting which is generally linked to having a rich lsn causing their motor to load up with fuel also giving trouble with restarting. This way it saves a bit of frustration & wear & tear on some parts like pullstart strings, owb's. I may have a little trouble on initial start ups from slight over primeing since I blow thru my pressure tube to prime my engine but once its warmed up my motors usually start up on the first or second pull or the first press of the roto start button.

LSVTIEG 07-26-2012 04:46 AM


Originally Posted by hotrod87 (Post 11018286)
Wondering why you start with lsn ? I have always started with hsn once your good there then go to the lsn for a touch up. The hsn effects the lsn so if its done first it doesn't usually take much on the lsn.

Because the hsn is as it states "high speed". By adjusting your lsn first you will get easier start ups & better take off from not being overly rich. But then again that's just me. To each his own. Many times I have read people talking about their motors dieing when they give it throttle after starting which is generally linked to having a rich lsn causing their motor to load up with fuel also giving trouble with restarting. This way it saves a bit of frustration & wear & tear on some parts like pullstart strings, owb's. I may have a little trouble on initial start ups from slight over primeing since I blow thru my pressure tube to prime my engine but once its warmed up my motors usually start up on the first or second pull or the first press of the roto start button.

Kingclod27 07-26-2012 10:28 AM

Thanks guys, yea I noticed the tuning was off in that vid too...it was from a month or so ago and I have since tweaked the tuning and its running good now. started from the base settings on the LSN and HSN. It seems to be running alot smoother now. might have to add a lil more brake too, ill test that out once I get it on dirt. I work at a hobby shop now so it will be a hell of alot easier to get parts.

@LSVTIEG... thanks for all the info, ill start looking into that stuff.

savagexmen 07-26-2012 11:12 AM

ercm pipe I the way to go.

Kingclod27 07-27-2012 11:22 AM

Im gonna have to look up the ERCM stuff, never heard of it...

savagexmen 07-27-2012 02:10 PM

http://www.extremercmods.com/

Kingclod27 07-28-2012 05:20 PM


Originally Posted by savagexmen (Post 11024477)

Thanks dude!

I really like the looks of those tuned pipes...once I decide to upgrade the motor I was looking at the LRP ZR.30

savagexmen 07-29-2012 07:15 PM

you should get picco .28

roychan69 08-05-2012 11:16 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Brake Mod:

Attachment 955117

Kingclod27 08-07-2012 09:53 AM

Thanks for the Brake mod pic....

I checked out the Picco .28 motor, very very nice..I think I might get that and one of those ERCM pipes.

LSVTIEG 08-07-2012 05:33 PM

If you have the coin for a picco you might as well get a novarossi 7 port. It's not much more than a picco p3 & has more top end.


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