nitro fuel
05-07-2012, 06:28 PM
#32
High oil% can mean higher temps but it has a larger tuning window. OD's Speed blend is 8% and Werks can't be too far off that number, although they don't say what the % is.
05-07-2012, 06:53 PM
#33
that is most likely a air leak issue. Try sealing the backplate and around the base of the Carb with three bond liquid gasket. You can get it at most motorcycle shops. That or it is a tune issue. Set the idel gap at 1mm and tune off that. first is the High speed needle. Tune it so that after a wide open pass when you let off the gas the Rpms drop down instantly to an idel. If it hangs up it is to lean. Go as lean as you can before this happens than richen it up till an hour. next is the low speed needle. If after a wide open pass the rpms drop down than pick back up at idle than the low speed is to lean. if it drops off and bogs down at idle than it is to rich. make sure that there is a smooth response from idle as well.
Now comes the temp gun. After tuning as above your temps should be somewhere between 210 and 240 after a few wot passes. bring it back to you and let it idle you should see the temps dropping by 1 degree every 2-3 seconds. if it is you are good to go.
Now comes the temp gun. After tuning as above your temps should be somewhere between 210 and 240 after a few wot passes. bring it back to you and let it idle you should see the temps dropping by 1 degree every 2-3 seconds. if it is you are good to go.
05-07-2012, 07:06 PM
#34
I run both in 2 different OS. Speed's. I think that qualifies for decent amounts of power. Just so happens I had to replace the front bearing in the engine with the most Werks ran through it
That was at 4 gallons. My other Speed running speed blend is still going strong on 6 gallons.
That was at 4 gallons. My other Speed running speed blend is still going strong on 6 gallons.
05-07-2012, 08:08 PM
#35
that is most likely a air leak issue. Try sealing the backplate and around the base of the Carb with three bond liquid gasket. You can get it at most motorcycle shops. That or it is a tune issue. Set the idel gap at 1mm and tune off that. first is the High speed needle. Tune it so that after a wide open pass when you let off the gas the Rpms drop down instantly to an idel. If it hangs up it is to lean. Go as lean as you can before this happens than richen it up till an hour. next is the low speed needle. If after a wide open pass the rpms drop down than pick back up at idle than the low speed is to lean. if it drops off and bogs down at idle than it is to rich. make sure that there is a smooth response from idle as well.
Now comes the temp gun. After tuning as above your temps should be somewhere between 210 and 240 after a few wot passes. bring it back to you and let it idle you should see the temps dropping by 1 degree every 2-3 seconds. if it is you are good to go.
Now comes the temp gun. After tuning as above your temps should be somewhere between 210 and 240 after a few wot passes. bring it back to you and let it idle you should see the temps dropping by 1 degree every 2-3 seconds. if it is you are good to go.
yea im waiting on a new spring to come that holds the fuel tank lid down. then i can get out and tune it better. see i have an aluminum fuel tank, and i been having trouble trying to get a lid to fit good and seal around the neck of the tank. i bought like 3 different aluminum tank lids, now im using the stock black plastic lid with an extra o-ring in it to help seal it.
05-08-2012, 04:36 AM
#37
Speed is not a sensitive to this, and the power is modest compared to the modifieds we run..... a engine like my P5 is substantially faster with a much stronger crankcase vacuum........... Speed blend is not a suitable fuel for engines like my modifieds, too thin and unable to make a proper seal in the crankcase
) we would be able to compare, but this is a frickin 3.3 engine here... Speed blend is a GREAT fuel to run! No problems with it running $500 engines. Oh yeah, one of mine is moded too...What I don't understand is EVERYTHING you post about always turns into "YOUR" moded engines some way or another.
05-08-2012, 06:56 AM
#39
Dude, that's great! In a perfect world where ALL of us run "your" moded engines and ALL that power is transfered through a magic tire down to the dirt and it sticks like a 10th scale muchmore tire to a hot sun beat on road track (oh, forgot to mention fuel milage too) we would be able to compare, but this is a frickin 3.3 engine here... Speed blend is a GREAT fuel to run! No problems with it running $500 engines. Oh yeah, one of mine is moded too...
What I don't understand is EVERYTHING you post about always turns into "YOUR" moded engines some way or another.
) we would be able to compare, but this is a frickin 3.3 engine here... Speed blend is a GREAT fuel to run! No problems with it running $500 engines. Oh yeah, one of mine is moded too...What I don't understand is EVERYTHING you post about always turns into "YOUR" moded engines some way or another.
edit.... there is a pile of data on the differences between the different fuels, what the effects are and the reasons why...however it is difficult for me to take the time to write a small novel on the topic, I just do not have that kind of free time....... If you wish to discuss this please just call me, and I will gladly explain why i say the things I do..........I am not talking out of my rectum, the fuels I recommend will perform better and your engine will live a happier life because of it...I have better things to do with my time then get into arguments about fuels, but when the manufacturers put out products with less then desirable characteristics it makes my job more difficult
Last edited by Maximo; 05-08-2012 at 08:41 AM.
05-08-2012, 07:01 AM
#40
i already sealed the whole engine. i know my front bearing in the engine is leaking a bit. would the fuel tank lid not being sealed good cause a high temp in the engine?
yea im waiting on a new spring to come that holds the fuel tank lid down. then i can get out and tune it better. see i have an aluminum fuel tank, and i been having trouble trying to get a lid to fit good and seal around the neck of the tank. i bought like 3 different aluminum tank lids, now im using the stock black plastic lid with an extra o-ring in it to help seal it.
yea im waiting on a new spring to come that holds the fuel tank lid down. then i can get out and tune it better. see i have an aluminum fuel tank, and i been having trouble trying to get a lid to fit good and seal around the neck of the tank. i bought like 3 different aluminum tank lids, now im using the stock black plastic lid with an extra o-ring in it to help seal it.
05-08-2012, 07:14 AM
#41
So does anyone have any real Data on why Traxxas fuel sucks or does everyone just have a make believe Chemical engineering degree, or a metallurgy degree to say the sleeve and pistons are more stressed after running Traxxas fuels? While Traxxas Fuels may not be the most powerful Race fuels they do contain a Blend of Synthetic oils and real Castor oil. Castor oil is more expensive than most synthetics which is one reason a lot of people dont use it any more. But having two types of lube does provide a high level of lubrication. So until someone has some real proof as to why everything Traxxas sucks use whatever brand you want.
05-08-2012, 11:00 AM
#43
Yes that would cause your temp problem. Not sealing means that the pressure sent to the tank by the pressure line is just leaking out the lid rather than creating fuel pressure. This is causing the motor to run lean. I recomend just going back to the stock plastic tank since you are having such problems. What type of truck do you have?
