JustinL7294

iTrader: (3)

I have a completely stock first version t maxx that has be up in my closet un touched for years. I have planned to upgrade it for a racing type truck when I first got it but lost interest in it. I would like to finally start updating it now. I have read around and I will be putting 1/8 buggy shocks on it, RPM suspension arms, better slipper clutch, and titanium hing pins and tie rods but so far thats all i have planned. Was wondering who still makes good parts and where should I start? Should i stick with the .15-.18 or upgrade the chassis to use a .21 motor?

Theres going to be a lot of questions as I go a long so bare with me as I havnt been looking around for t maxx stuff in a long time. Thanks

Cadimman

iTrader: (41)

Depending on your budget I would upgrade to newer "revo grade" trans and diffs. Also would stick with small block as a OS .18tm would haul if they're still available. If cost is no object then big block requires beefy drive train.

ue-maxx

iTrader: (1)

If you leave it small block it is 1/10
Big block 1/8. So you might wanna check and see what classes you can run in at your track.

Did you ever hear of unlimited engineering? If you decide you run a .21 i have a ue tranny.
Tranny
Beefed up 8mm ue foc with ue input gear. Great for .21-.23 it will break if you got with any engine bigger. This is very light but still strong. It is worth 65-100 i will sell it to you for 75 shipped
Diffs
Ue ultralights spyder 6 diffs
Good for anything.
Or
Rrp diffs might hold up
Shocks and towers
1/8 ofna ravager shocks
Ue 6mm standoffs
Ue knuckle heads light and alot of tuning options
Dd wingmount for a wing
Chassis
Ue thunder i have 1 if you want it
Hcr chassis
Stock with new motor mount and monoblock(extends chassis) with newer tmaxx rear driveshaft
Axles
Stock newer tmaxx axles with newer tmaxx knuckles
If you run ue diffs run ue ti 6mm cvds with older tmaxx knuckles
Bulkheads
Stock. Good lightweight race
Ga. Dont have to worry about breaking
Arms
Rpm lightweight
Ue ext good race setup and good bashing
Ue racerx great race set up good basher
Ue widetrack good race setup ok basher. Good for a lightweight truck but still tough.

keith09

iTrader: (3)

First off what the hell was the previous guy trying to say. Sorry it's very hard to follow. Where you want to start that's up to you. But here is my input. I would look into the traxxas 3.3 stock t-maxx, revo drive shafts and that would mean upgrading to the newer 3.3 turnbuckles and the newer knuckles, lunsford titanium turnbuckles or go with traxxas cvds. Gpm aluminum skid plates, fusion aluminum chassis braces there cheap but are really durable. For an engine I would try to find a o.s. 18 or o.s. 21tm excellent engines. But the .21 would mean a beefier transmission. If your a wing guy I would go with the tekno mount good mounts. And definitely 17mm hub adapters. For servos well hitec, savox, jr. For a slipper I would go with Robinson racing. And for a pipe either traxxas resonator or a ths pipe. I know alot about the t-maxx's used to do the whole race setup with them then I bought a revo. You can make them a track worthy truck if you put the time into them. The wider you get them the better they run track.
http://a2.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/i...17be263d/l.jpg

imrob

iTrader: (7)

im gonna have to agree this guy here since rpm sell the arm for the new version maxx you will need the the revo shaft set the oversize rpm knockels with oversize bearing. tecno does have over sized bearing knuckles too but i been running the rpm for two year no problem so far. i run half off set on mine with truggy tire like he has in his pic too with the 17 mill adapter are a must a lingakeg set like this here with slidder is a must for bind free throotle http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ke-Linkage-Set you will need to keep the orginal linkage for your if going this way or you can buy the alunminu one. i would get a good servo protecter also for you sterring sevro is a must too. this will help save you servo alot http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXMJM4&P=OW there are many thing that can be done but i would stay away from that aluminu stuff cause it heavey and when it bends good luck and that ue stuff is pricey and i think they stopped making the part for ue not sure though might wanna double check that. if you want something bigger motor wise you will need the newer maxx chassie cause that point 15 one will not fit anything bigger than that os 18 with a pull start so be carefull there the 21 with a pull start will hit the shock tower and exhuast too will good luck with you build. for the engine mount i woud go to gh for that best one i found that did not break the screw tab yet you best beat would be too look beatyour truck site they did a whole thing on the maxx and it posted on what the did for part for part some of the stuff the have they dont make of course but i did my build from there infor minus some of the newer stuff and i race mine all summer every weekend still and everyone love my maxx at my track and the only aluminum i have are the cross brace that servo protecter, skid, servo horn and slidder, drive shaft, almost everthing is aluminu except the arms and knuckels i guess. wow i did not relize that when i was typing it lol took me a year to play with my setup before i got it packed down now i have some followers at my track and more people into the monster class i hope and i drive mine like a tryggy with on power steering too best why to keep the truck planted in turn.

stanmondz

iTrader: (20)

iv had many maxx series trucks. theres no way id dump that kind of money in one when a stock out of the box savage will hold up as good as a UE truck.

seriously though, your looking at a nice chunk of change to get a old narrow pro.15 truck up to par.

if you got to keep it and built it, stay with a small block, go ahead a get a RRP steal tranny gear set and a newer 3.3 spec tranny.with torque control slipper.

flm bulks will hold up fine and wont cost near what GA cost. then stick a set of 16.8v emaxx diffs in em.
trx cvd's in the center and corners (3.3 spec for the corners)

rpm arms,3.3 spec knuckles and steering links up front
rpm true track on the rear
rpm towers, they flex if you run em with a 4 shock set up so run em on 8 shocks. big bore shocks
17mm hubs,or 23mm better yet
figure out what wheel/tire combo you like

if you want to change the chassis. you get to spend some more money.
i ran a flm extended chassis on my emaxx and a ACNCM extended big block chassis on my tmaxx

if you looking at racing, theres no monster truck classes left, go truggy,buggy or short course.

if you want a basher, buy a savage and never look back.
theres a story to why i say savage

i bought a used savage 25 from my LHS for 100 bucks, someone brought it in to get a new OWB and back plate put on it and never came back for it.
at the time i was running a emaxx with all the parts listed above plus a ezrun BL system.

went out bashing with my brother in law one weekend, took my money pit emaxx and the cheap old banged up savage i had just got.
minutes into the first pack of the day, my emaxx was sitting across the lot broken,snapped a steering link end and the ear it attaches to off the knuckle. i was use to it breaking so no big deal right? thats part of bashing.
go out ,drive it some and then spend money on it so you can bash next weekend

fired up the old savage, had to mess with the steering some because the horn was way off center and i ran out of trim clicks before it would run strait, centered everything up and off we went.
i beat this savage tank after tank and it just wouldn't quit. i learned that day that just because your out bashing that doesn't mean you have to go the the hobby shop and spend money to go bash again next weekend.

i got rid of everything maxx i had soon after that and will never have another maxx series truck again

the maxx started it all as far as monster truck as we know them today, props for that. but the maxx is a 10th scale truck and if treated like a fragile 10th scale,it will serve you well. but start going big and it will fail you.

the maxx is a decent truck, but it will never fill my needs in a basher.
UE make the best parts out there for a maxx, but check out the prices,most of there parts they dont make anymore, got to find em on ebay or message boards

i still have that savage to this day, i did extend it with a set of FLM tvp's and put a set of 1/2" offset wheels on it. stepped up the power once the .25 wore out, running a cheap axial .32 in it now. its ready for a beating anytime

Cadimman

iTrader: (41)

I agree 100%

My money pit Maxx sits on a shelf at over $2000. My Savage serves me well time and again with the only "breakages" after stupid air! And that's when I hit the jump crooked...

keith09

iTrader: (3)

Never owned a Savage but a friend of mine had the 5.9. He never broke it. Savages are beasts when it comes to durability.

jrz93

iTrader: (8)

so wondering if this thread can help? friend gave me a t-maxx with the engine and clutch/gears/trans apart.
is there a spot (MANUAL) other than t-maxx parts explosion that i can use to put it all back together?

keith09

iTrader: (3)

No I don't believe there is.

imrob

iTrader: (7)

there might not be one for the pro 15 but there is one for the 3.3 that for sure try the traxxas site but i do agree with these guy here traxxas make a good ready to one but to race one have a big wallet for it. If i new then what i know now about them i can say i would have never got the traxxas line i built mine for 3 years to get it setup to race and then bam no one races them now after i one my trophy bummer. Now i let the kid race it in the sportman class when they have it.

jrz93

iTrader: (8)

thanks anyway

what?

imrob

iTrader: (7)

Yes they should have a parts here is the one for the 2.5 i dont think the rans are so much different http://traxxas.com/sites/default/fil...ion-2008_0.pdf o never mind you looking for a reagualr manul they dont have one the spot is the only one they have sorry

jrz93

iTrader: (8)

thanks!!
that is better than the one i have

imrob

iTrader: (7)

The only thing i dont know is how different the trans are i never had a .15 i have the 2.5r but i took the revese out of it and went with a foward wide gear only it work like a charm for me.