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Old 12-18-2011, 03:13 PM   #16
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I have built the exact truck you are going for and the only thing I've had to replace after a year of extreme bashing are the hinge pins. You're on the right track and want a good mix of alloy and plastic parts so it flexes in the right places and is stiff in others. If you go all alloy, stuff will bend or break. I wouldn't recommend anything UE makes as it will be expensive and harder to find than the flm/rpm/rc-monster stuff.

For shocks you'll want 4 Ofna Ultra LX Buggy rear 13mm shocks with Trinity ultra heavy maxx springs. You'll have to spread the ends slightly to fit over the stock spring retainers at the ends but the rest will slide nicely over the shock bodies. For the other four, use traxxas big bores with no springs. Perfect track setup because it will ride even with up and down travel. If your bombing big jumps, simply add springs to the traxxas big bores to make it stand up. This will make your ride stiffer but will handle big landings.

Use rpm front arms and axle carriers, rpm true track rear arms, rpm shock towers, and you're good using alloy for all the rest. Do not use alloy shock towers of any kind for heavy bashing. Impact energy has to go somewhere and you'll either bend them or strip the screw holes connecting them to your nice bulkheads. Same with bumper supports, stick with the stock plastic ones. I'm even back to the stock plastic front and rear skids because the alloy ones look nice but bend way too easy. On top of the traxxas skids I'm using the rpm set.

Inside the hybrid bulks you'll want machined aluminum diff cases with hot bodies hardened diff gears. Plastic cases will flex and eat gears, and soft gears will simply eat themselves. I'm using beefy revo/maxx shafts connected directly to the stub axles. They don't last forever but longer than any cvd setup I've tried. The ends with the pins and set screws blow up in no time. The rear driveshaft is flm and front is mip shiny. No problems so far.

Here's my build when I started, it's got the MMM setup now and ofna ultra lx/big bore shocks - http://www.rctech.net/forum/monster-...ers-group.html
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:21 PM   #17
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Hey melonpeel, in your post you say run aluminum diff cases inside the hybrid bulks but I thought the diff case was built into the bulk so you basically just drop the gears in. Am I missing something. Also what diff cup is that that you are using and thanks for the info on the shocks, those are the ones I wanted to really know about.
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:37 PM   #18
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The shock input melonpeel gave seems very interesting. I personally haven't seen or run the setup, but seems like it would definitely be worth trying out. I agree the UE stuff is expensive. As far as quality goes though you wont find anything better. The ue diffs truly are bulletproof. You can get sets off Ebay for around 150. Seems high, but if you start going through diffs it will start to add up. I do agree you need to have balance between the aluminum stuff and the plastic. Do yourself a big favor and get a good set of hinge pins. Its not fun pulling bent pins out of the bulks, especially when they're aluminum.
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:56 PM   #19
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Yea diffs can add up fast, does anyone know if they make a blue anodized screw kit for the maxx. Just looking to add a little contrast.


Also melonpeel how have the rpm carriers been holding up, I have read about the pillow balls popping out. And is the true trac holding up as well. I was originally looking into that whole setup but when mustang63 told me about the tekno's they seem pretty promising as well.
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:29 PM   #20
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The tekno carriers are bullet-proof, also the flm or ue shock towers hold up fine. Popoxx on the traxxas fourms had to go with aluminum because he broke a rpm shock tower. Remember that the rpm stuff flexes alot and the shock towers could potentially bend a shock shaft if it flexes enough. I also would recommend the traxxas tubes.
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:37 PM   #21
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Yea seems like there is always one thing that has a little flex leading to a failure and if you switch it the other way something else breaks. As for the shock towers seems like a lot of people use aluminum towers but plastic body mounts to absorb some shock. I haven't decided what I am going to do there yet but this thread has some good ideas and feedback so keep it coming.
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:42 PM   #22
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I havent had any trouble breaking stuff with the flm towers and I have abused this thing. Too bad I don't have a vid of me doing like 45-50mph and hitting a tree and driving away from it
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:58 PM   #23
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Mustang63, your diffs drop into the bulks and then you bolt them together and that acts as a diff case right. Just trying to clarify where melonpeel said to use aluminum diff cases to go in the flm hybrid bulks. Trying to see if I need cases as well buy it doesn't look like it to me.
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:14 PM   #24
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Moondog you are right. Something is always going to be the weak link. You just want to make your weak link the cheapest and easiest thing to replace. I run the rpm carriers on my truck and have never had a problem. Will admit the teckno's look better and I want to try them eventually.
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:29 AM   #25
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Yep the diffs drop right in and the 2 halves of the bulkheads bolt together.
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:26 AM   #26
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I mentioned "case" when I meant "cup", sorry for the confusion. The cups I got I found on ebay. I'll try to find them again send you a link.

Here's a not so great pic of the shock setup. I messed with several ofna and losi spring strengths and all were too soft. I remembered I had an old set of trinity super stiff blue ones for traxxas shocks that were just too strong at the time I got them and slapped them on these ofna shocks and viola, perfect ride height and stiffness. Like I said, you will have to mod the diameter at the end slightly to fit on the larger spring cup, but the rest slides over the bodies perfectly. I added the 4 traxxas shocks as extra dampeners to achieve a similar experience of having a real set of the rare proline powerstrokes. I'm thinking about adding a small section of the soft ofna spring above the strong trinity spring to copy the dual rate setup like the prolines have. Should be an easy mod.



I did have a front pillow ball pop out once. I put it back together and now run the cup's that hold the balls a little loose. That seemed to fix it. Just a little bit of play between the ball and cup. I think they pop easier if you run them flush with no play. I haven't heard of the tekno ones, will have to check them out! The true track rears are good. I have managed to bend one slightly, you'll notice the toe on the left side points in more than the right.

Use this drive cup for the rear (6mm) - http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...RCM8mmdrivecup

The front drive cup I'm using is the one that came with the mip set. So far so good. When I was using cups and cvd's for axles instead of the fat traxxas tubes that connect right to the diff axle I never really had a problem with cups and the bone end. I had lots of cups laying around from my 1/8 scale stuff so I couldn't tell you what brand to use, they're all pretty strong. With mip cvd's, they always shattered at the wheel end where the ball, pin and set screws are. But only the rears. The fronts are still going strong, a little bent, but holding up. Only once did shatter a cup (rear), and also twisted a diff axle (rear) but that comes with the territory. I only use the traxxas tubes on the rear now and buy them 4 at a time. They last a couple runs then need to be replaced when the holes for the pins begin to ovalize. I was losing those little eclips all the time until I started putting a small drop of locktite on them, problem solved.

I think flm or ue or similar alloy shock towers with plastic body posts would probably hold up fine. I'm starting to lean that way because I just noticed my rpm towers are starting to bend away from the shock side with the springs a little too much. I could fix this by monkeying with an 8 spring setup and get the pressure on the towers more balanced but crap, it took me so long to find a combination that really works, and this is it. You should see this thing cruise over rough terrain at speed, it's awesome. Alloy towers would fix the issue as well but they will for sure bend at some point. If someone makes a heat treated set, point me in that direction!!!

The only downside to using the flm hybrid bulks is the bottom hinge pin length that's required. I'm using lundsford titanium pins on top and can only use the flm pins on the bottom. They are strong though.
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Last edited by melonpeel; 12-19-2011 at 08:44 AM.
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:09 PM   #27
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Here's how it sits "at rest" with two 3s batteries. A few ounces either way and it might not be the same so I can't say your results would match mine 100% with the trinity springs and ofna shocks. I assume it would be close though. Besides the lack of anti-sway it drives much more like my losi truggy than it did with stock maxx suspension which is what I wanted. It takes a whole lot of effort to get it to traction roll. I added roughly 1/4" of fuel tube inside on the shafts to tame down the travel as well.

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Old 12-19-2011, 04:01 PM   #28
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Yea I am definitely looking at getting ofna shocks, the only ultra rears I see on eBay at the moment are lx2's and they are 16mm, do you have any knowledge on those. I figured you were talking about the diff cups but just wanted to clarify.
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:28 PM   #29
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hey melonpeel are these the same type of diffs you have

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Bodies-F...item53e90584a4
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:00 PM   #30
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Just buy the stock hyper 7 diffs, they have been holding up great and drop right in. You don't even need the rcm drive cups if you use lst xxl cvd's
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