FALCON-LORD

On the weekend while running my E-Maxx I noted a high pitched whine with no action on a few occasions when I accalerated hard from a standing start.

I did a bit of reading and it appears that is a symptom of the Slipper clutch being to loose.

So i pulled the gear cover off and had a look at what there is to see.

Q1. How do you stop the spur from turning so you can adjust the tension bolt?

Q2. The Tension bolt apeared as tight as it was going to go, but if I turned the spur, the wheels had no force applied to them What gives (Note E-Max so no Centripetal clutch.))

Q3. The Spur didn't run true (It wobbled a little from side to side) is this an issue, and how is it fixed?

Q4. I know you can get metal pinion gears, but I have seen no evidence of metal spur gears, would you/should you/ could you use a metal spur, and can any one tell me where they are available?

Thanks for any help people can give.

lizzardo420

Falcon-lord

In response to your list of questions:

Q1=if when you put your thumb on the spur to tighten the shaft turns then its already too lale for your spur, It's melted..

Q2=See Q1

Q3=If any wobble is present than the gear and the friction pegs are done. Replacement is the only fix.

Q4=If you are considering the metal spur you will need a hardened pinion or basicly not alluminum. I recomend you have a look at the Robenson Racing fibre slipper and a hardened spur. It's been my experience that these parts handle the load well.

I hope this is of service to you

Robert K. McCartney

FALCON-LORD

I suppose this leaves me with the question, of how do I tell if the slipper has melted.

I pulled the whole thing apart and nothing loks obviosly stuffed.

I have attached a pic of the parts, anything wrong there?

FALCON-LORD

So asuming for a moment I want to go for a metal main spur gear, and keep the gear ratio about wat it is now, I would hav eto get a 72 tooth spur (all the metal ones appear to be 72 tooth) and then a 19 or 20 tooth pair of pinions.

Will a 72 tooth spur fit into the existing housing without modification?

FALCON-LORD

Well after putting it all back together it seems to be fine...
Now i am taring the stock rubber off the rims, so time to wash it down and glue it on.

lizzardo420

Your pict worked fine and the blue in the side rings meens slippage.. I see you only run 6 friction pegs why not the full 12. The red friction pegs won't show any sign of dammage other than becoming shorter, measurement is required... The 72 tooth will fit with no issues I can think of.. Good to here the truck is still a runner..

Robert K. McCartney

FALCON-LORD

Thanks for the Help Lizardo,

Why 6 pegs and not 12...

Because that is what Traxxas shipped it with.

So basicly the pegs are where the magic happens, and are considered a consumable yes?

I still can turn the Spur without the wheels turning, though if I lock three sheels and turn one it fources the Spur to turn, so I don't know what is going down there.

lizzardo420

The pegs are as you said "consumable". When the pegs are done thats it thats all, time for new... the t-maxx runs the same slipper but with 12 pegs to control nitro power.. A good mod would be to install the 12 piece kit from traxxas... remember the slipper should not slip with the motor but only absorb huge driveline impacts like the killer jumps we do with these trucks... If possible can we clear the air on this problem, the spur and input shaft are now turning together but still nothing to the wheels? But if you block 3 wheels and turn the forth by hand the spur spinns. Is this correct? I am just pulling the scematics on the transmission as we speek to try and assist you.. I can't attatch the transmisson scematic to this thread as it's too big, I can e-mail to you if required.

Robert K. McCartney

FALCON-LORD

Yep that is corect the Shaft is turning with the spur. So wherever the movment is being lost it is downstream from the spur and slipper.

(Calling the motors the top and ground the bottom of the stream)

lizzardo420

According to the scematic the weak link may be the cross pin that locates the drive gear to the shaft or maby the gear itself the only way to know for sure would be to dissassemble, clean, and inspect... The trans is pretty straight forward to work with and should pose no trouble for you. Just lay the parts out as you dissassemble so you can control the order for reassembly.. As I said earlier I have the exploded view scematics if required.

Robert K. McCartney

FALCON-LORD

Yeah to grab the schematic from you would be cool, though Arn't they available on the Traxxas Web Site?

lizzardo420

You are correct the scematic of your trans is available at traxxas.com for the pdf file.

Robert K. McCartney

FALCON-LORD

Cool.

I got that first thing when I was thinking of tearing the Maxx apart

Thanks for your help.
I'll get back on the boards when I have broaken down the gearbox.

Are all the internals of the gearbox replaceable with Metal parts?
It appears the Stock maxx Input gear is Metal, thought the Idler and Output gears are plastic...