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checking engine temps?
1 Attachment(s)
i have this for my glow plug wire- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynamite-DYN...item5ae2e70296
it works great! but, its hard to use my duratrax temp gauge on the head. is it fine to just get a reading on top of the plug wire? or do i need to remove the wire every time i want to get a temp reading? im thinking about getting the traxxas on-board temp gauge- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-Digi...item48426dd226 that way i dont have to use my duratrax gauge. i attached a pic of my truck. any suggestions? thanks. |
Originally Posted by ckblood05
(Post 9791601)
i have this for my glow plug wire- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynamite-DYN...item5ae2e70296
it works great! but, its hard to use my duratrax temp gauge on the head. is it fine to just get a reading on top of the plug wire? or do i need to remove the wire every time i want to get a temp reading? im thinking about getting the traxxas on-board temp gauge- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-Digi...item48426dd226 that way i dont have to use my duratrax gauge. i attached a pic of my truck. any suggestions? thanks. |
Originally Posted by bobbyc1127
(Post 9791836)
honestly. in my opinion...your temp gun is the problem. I had a duratraxx gun...and a buddy was shooting temps with his exergin (spelling) and I was compareing to my duratraxx gun...even after resetting my temp gun I was still showing to be 30 to 40 degress off when compared...
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Originally Posted by ckblood05
(Post 9791911)
im not saying my temps are wrong, just hard to get a good reading with that glow plug wire taking up all the room in the center of the head.
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Originally Posted by bobbyc1127
(Post 9791948)
i understand...was just implying you maywant tio look into a better gun...you maybe able to get a reading off the side of the block...but remember there will be a variance from head to side of block....also another option is to remove the wire and goto a hand held glow plug heater
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I agree, get rid of a duratrash temp gauge. Get rid of a temp gauge all together. If it's running ok with smoke where it's supposed to be throw that duratrash thing in the round file.
Throw the cheezy start and the wire harness in the port-o-potty. Put a pull start on it and use a glo igniter. If your tune is good and it's primed it should fire on the pop. |
Originally Posted by got_nitro
(Post 9794982)
I agree, get rid of a duratrash temp gauge. Get rid of a temp gauge all together. If it's running ok with smoke where it's supposed to be throw that duratrash thing in the round file.
Throw the cheezy start and the wire harness in the port-o-potty. Put a pull start on it and use a glo igniter. If your tune is good and it's primed it should fire on the pop. |
even when I raced my 3.3 the hottest it would get would be 290ish...and that was on a hard race tune running for 30 to 45 minutes. if your seeing alot of 300 runs then you maybe seeing the soon to be ending of that motors life, on my race engines i would generally get 3 gallons then they were done...
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Originally Posted by bobbyc1127
(Post 9795524)
even when I raced my 3.3 the hottest it would get would be 290ish...and that was on a hard race tune running for 30 to 45 minutes. if your seeing alot of 300 runs then you maybe seeing the soon to be ending of that motors life, on my race engines i would generally get 3 gallons then they were done...
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Originally Posted by ckblood05
(Post 9797487)
no not a lot of 300 temps. just a couple time for a short time. its mostly between 220-250's. i got abot 2-21/2 gallons through the engine.
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Originally Posted by bobbyc1127
(Post 9797559)
oh ok...well you got to remember to the lower the fuel level goes in the tank the leaner/hotter the motor will get as well...and with these trx motors being so fickle..there is not really alot of room for error
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Originally Posted by ckblood05
(Post 9797634)
yea, i heard that. plus noticed it when i take a temp reading. i know, this is my first nitro. so i had to learn with this 3.3 engine. im a lot better now with tuning it. but when this engine goes, im probably going to go with a different brand. and bigger in size to. i mean im going to have the whole truck beefed up to handle the extra power.
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Originally Posted by bobbyc1127
(Post 9797719)
don't take this the wrong way...but that would be a big mistake...I don't know if you bought it new or used...but say you bought it new...you paid...$700 for it out the door with everything....in order to beef everything up to run a big block...you can/will drop another $1k into it...if your wanting something with more power..then when you think it is time sell the revo and get into 1/8 scale....either buggy or truggy...I have done the entire BIG BLOCK REVO and in my opinion it is not worth it. And I have raced against REVO's with the big blocks in them and they did not last the entire race due to breakage...the truck was built around the 3.3...which if you learn how to tune it and know what it likes the 3.3 is a good motor...and with the engine replacement they offer you can stay reasonably cheap in running a REVO..but like alot of owners I went to e-bay and picked up a 2nd motor to keep as a back up incase I lost 1...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/monster-...new-toy-7.html thats a list of what i bought for my t-maxx. |
Originally Posted by ckblood05
(Post 9795388)
i paid over $20 for that temp gauge,lol. i see a lot of people using that gauge. i mean yea it runs fine. but theres been times the temp got over 300 when i thought it was running good. i actually dont like pull starts. my uncle has a ofna buggy with a pull start. i brought it home to break the engine in for him. and there were a number of times where the pull start got siezed up so bad i had to put my foot on the car to pull it. my finger were sore for days from pulling it so much. im sure it was just loaded up with fuel. i got used to it after a few times. but i like the push button start personally :nod:
You don't have to pull a nitro pull start like a lawn mower (all the way out) to get it fired. If your engine is primed, good plug, not too cold and the tune is good it will fire on the first up-n-down stroke of the piston. You just pop the pull start, not yank on it like I see most moronic delusional brain stems doing. Literally pop it like 2-3 inches is all. Getting rid of a cheezy start will let your engine head breath better decreasing your temps. Plus the metal motor can retains heat. It's your truck so you will do as you please, I can only offer better opportunities. |
Originally Posted by got_nitro
(Post 9799399)
Over $20? You paid over $19.99 too much:tire:;)
You don't have to pull a nitro pull start like a lawn mower (all the way out) to get it fired. If your engine is primed, good plug, not too cold and the tune is good it will fire on the first up-n-down stroke of the piston. You just pop the pull start, not yank on it like I see most moronic delusional brain stems doing. Literally pop it like 2-3 inches is all. Getting rid of a cheezy start will let your engine head breath better decreasing your temps. Plus the metal motor can retains heat. It's your truck so you will do as you please, I can only offer better opportunities. |
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