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-   -   Brushless Converted T-Maxx (https://www.rctech.net/forum/monster-trucks/545773-brushless-converted-t-maxx.html)

popjupiter21060 01-21-2012 10:01 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Hey all, been following this thread, and thought i would share my setup since you guys kind of inspired me. Here are some shots of my setup. How2rc mount, and Hobby Wing 120a esc, 2700kv motor, 54 spur, 19 pinion, single speed, and reverse eliminator kit. Its an old 2.5, and been sitting on a shelf in the garage for about 10 years. Decided to convert it after getting my son a Stampede vxl for Christmas. Still not exactly how i would like it but it works for now.

redskull1944 01-22-2012 04:40 AM


Originally Posted by SloRacer1080 (Post 10193922)
The center to rear driveshaft takes a beating. The center set should be replaced first. I haven't had any issues with the ones from the diffs to the wheels. In fact I'm pretty sure they are still the factory ones that came with the truck when I bought it new over a year and a half ago.

Doh! moment, you have a 2.5, I have the 3.3 truck with the revo spec axles. So yours may infact need beefing up.

I found a good center CVD kit for the 2.5 for around $40. I was wondering if the revo/3.3 p/n 5451R cvd kit will work with the T-Maxx 2.5 non optidrive. The diff's and a-arms are the same so I don't see why not.



Originally Posted by popjupiter21060 (Post 10207632)
Hey all, been following this thread, and thought i would share my setup since you guys kind of inspired me. Here are some shots of my setup. How2rc mount, and Hobby Wing 120a esc, 2700kv motor, 54 spur, 19 pinion, single speed, and reverse eliminator kit. Its an old 2.5, and been sitting on a shelf in the garage for about 10 years. Decided to convert it after getting my son a Stampede vxl for Christmas. Still not exactly how i would like it but it works for now.


Thanks for following the thread, hopefully it will become the official thread. Nice ET-MAXX you got built, I can't wait to start bashing mine. How well does your battery stay in, can you post a pic of it installed so I can get some ideas for my build. Once I get my parts I ordered I will post pics of my truck and let everyone know how the RX8 2000kv tears up the neighborhood.

:deathstar

SloRacer1080 01-22-2012 09:55 AM


Originally Posted by redskull1944 (Post 10208282)
I found a good center CVD kit for the 2.5 for around $40. I was wondering if the revo/3.3 p/n 5451R cvd kit will work with the T-Maxx 2.5 non optidrive. The diff's and a-arms are the same so I don't see why not.

Good deal, I still gotta get a center cvd setup. And yeah I agree, there should be no reason the cvd kit wouldnt work in your truck if you already have the wide arms. Only thing that may be different is if you have the older style knuckles, it would most likely use different sized bearings. Quick look at the exploded views on the Traxxas site will answer that tho.



Originally Posted by redskull1944 (Post 10208282)
Thanks for following the thread, hopefully it will become the official thread. Nice ET-MAXX you got built, I can't wait to start bashing mine. How well does your battery stay in, can you post a pic of it installed so I can get some ideas for my build. Once I get my parts I ordered I will post pics of my truck and let everyone know how the RX8 2000kv tears up the neighborhood.

:deathstar

Looks like he's got the good heavy duty style velcro. Probably work fine until the truck rolls, unless he has a strap we don't see. If there isn't one, I would recommend a strap to really hold it down to the chassis.

The RX8 is gonna be sick in the truck. I have an RX8 setup in my short course, so powerful yet so smooth, it's insane. If you haven't already, get the Hotwire, it is so worth it.

I've been keeping quiet about my truck cause I am kinda going to clone it lol. I have sooo many spare parts I basically have a half 2.5, half 3.3 roller without a trans. Going to do a dual build. My 3.3 is going the FLM route, and I'm also working on putting together a GorillaMaxx G2 E-Maxx. So far I have two parts to the chassis out of four. I have the main chassis plate, and the rear upper chassis plate, gotta find the x braces (I may die before finding these it seems) and the front top plate. If I can't find em, I'll be making them.

Should be fun :sarcasm: :lol:

toyspd 01-22-2012 02:45 PM


Originally Posted by popjupiter21060 (Post 10207632)
Hey all, been following this thread, and thought i would share my setup since you guys kind of inspired me. Here are some shots of my setup. How2rc mount, and Hobby Wing 120a esc, 2700kv motor, 54 spur, 19 pinion, single speed, and reverse eliminator kit. Its an old 2.5, and been sitting on a shelf in the garage for about 10 years. Decided to convert it after getting my son a Stampede vxl for Christmas. Still not exactly how i would like it but it works for now.

Very nice, maybe you can post some pix of the whole package. What is the average temp of your motor with that gear set up? What kind of speeds are you reaching?

redskull1944 01-22-2012 03:15 PM


Originally Posted by SloRacer1080 (Post 10209152)
Good deal, I still gotta get a center cvd setup. And yeah I agree, there should be no reason the cvd kit wouldnt work in your truck if you already have the wide arms. Only thing that may be different is if you have the older style knuckles, it would most likely use different sized bearings. Quick look at the exploded views on the Traxxas site will answer that tho.




Looks like he's got the good heavy duty style velcro. Probably work fine until the truck rolls, unless he has a strap we don't see. If there isn't one, I would recommend a strap to really hold it down to the chassis.

The RX8 is gonna be sick in the truck. I have an RX8 setup in my short course, so powerful yet so smooth, it's insane. If you haven't already, get the Hotwire, it is so worth it.

I've been keeping quiet about my truck cause I am kinda going to clone it lol. I have sooo many spare parts I basically have a half 2.5, half 3.3 roller without a trans. Going to do a dual build. My 3.3 is going the FLM route, and I'm also working on putting together a GorillaMaxx G2 E-Maxx. So far I have two parts to the chassis out of four. I have the main chassis plate, and the rear upper chassis plate, gotta find the x braces (I may die before finding these it seems) and the front top plate. If I can't find em, I'll be making them.

Should be fun :sarcasm: :lol:

My ET-MAXX is not the old narrow style just the 2.5 non optidrive that is still for sale. The driveshafts are different they do not have the blue boot and they are just like the slash/stampede driveshafts. I might just spend $10 on a 3.3 blue boot driveshaft to check fitment before I spend $50+ on the traxxas cvd's but like we both said fitment should not be an issue.

The batteries are my next concern. I bought the ofna battery straps and I was going to glue down some foam and do the velcro on the foam. I shouldn't have any issues but a battery tray would be ideal.

I can't wait to get the rx8 setup installed and going, it's going to be sick. I have the hot wire and almost all the wiring soldered in. I have not heard anything bad about the RX8 and I'm glad I went with it. My buddy put one in a kyosho inferno conversion and that thing was stupid fast and like you said smooth. I'm half tempted to put it in my slash and run it with a 3s lol.

Get with Dr Static, he has some FLM parts for sale or trade. Here is a link to his thread, he has more that's listed just shoot him a pm he's a good seller.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...arts-more.html
You should post some pics of your rides, they sound like some sick builds you have planned.

toyspd 01-23-2012 12:46 PM

Hey guys, Here is a little video I made on my conversion. Hope you like. Big ups to "sloracer1080" and everyone in this forum for keeping the T alive!!!!!

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

RahjahDat 01-23-2012 02:26 PM

Great Job Brother
 
So what gearing did you start out with>>>RESULTS>? what ratio did you end up with in the end? and lastly, How does it shift into second? did you have to do alot of adjustments?

popjupiter21060 01-23-2012 05:39 PM

3 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by redskull1944 (Post 10208282)
I found a good center CVD kit for the 2.5 for around $40. I was wondering if the revo/3.3 p/n 5451R cvd kit will work with the T-Maxx 2.5 non optidrive. The diff's and a-arms are the same so I don't see why not.





Thanks for following the thread, hopefully it will become the official thread. Nice ET-MAXX you got built, I can't wait to start bashing mine. How well does your battery stay in, can you post a pic of it installed so I can get some ideas for my build. Once I get my parts I ordered I will post pics of my truck and let everyone know how the RX8 2000kv tears up the neighborhood.

:deathstar


Originally Posted by SloRacer1080 (Post 10209152)
Good deal, I still gotta get a center cvd setup. And yeah I agree, there should be no reason the cvd kit wouldnt work in your truck if you already have the wide arms. Only thing that may be different is if you have the older style knuckles, it would most likely use different sized bearings. Quick look at the exploded views on the Traxxas site will answer that tho.




Looks like he's got the good heavy duty style velcro. Probably work fine until the truck rolls, unless he has a strap we don't see. If there isn't one, I would recommend a strap to really hold it down to the chassis.

The RX8 is gonna be sick in the truck. I have an RX8 setup in my short course, so powerful yet so smooth, it's insane. If you haven't already, get the Hotwire, it is so worth it.

I've been keeping quiet about my truck cause I am kinda going to clone it lol. I have sooo many spare parts I basically have a half 2.5, half 3.3 roller without a trans. Going to do a dual build. My 3.3 is going the FLM route, and I'm also working on putting together a GorillaMaxx G2 E-Maxx. So far I have two parts to the chassis out of four. I have the main chassis plate, and the rear upper chassis plate, gotta find the x braces (I may die before finding these it seems) and the front top plate. If I can't find em, I'll be making them.

Should be fun :sarcasm: :lol:


Originally Posted by toyspd (Post 10210216)
Very nice, maybe you can post some pix of the whole package. What is the average temp of your motor with that gear set up? What kind of speeds are you reaching?

I am using some really heavy industrial velcro type stuff, its called Dual Lock made by 3M. Its a heavy plastic that sticks to its self, not like regular velcro. It will actually pull the sticky backing off if i try to pull it straight off. I used this stuff to hold the esc, esc on/off switch, relocated the receiver box, and to hold the battery down. It was only supposed to be temporary for the battery hold down but works really well. I wanted to use a battery tray similar to SloRacer 1080.


I don't really know what the temps are, nothing seems to be getting warm to the touch so far. That might be different if i run a 3s, or 4s battery. Only running 2s thus far. Speed seems to be good. I would like a little more top end though. The truck will wheelie when it gets traction. Only have gravel driveway to run on.

popjupiter21060 01-23-2012 05:54 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Here is a couple more. Sorry i found out you can't upload pictures larger than 2 MB.

toyspd 01-23-2012 09:34 PM


Originally Posted by RahjahDat (Post 10215445)
So what gearing did you start out with>>>RESULTS>? what ratio did you end up with in the end? and lastly, How does it shift into second? did you have to do alot of adjustments?

Thanks.
I first used my original 72t spur gear and 19t pinion, I ran it with my phone onboard with a speedometer app. It ran 22mph with 4s lipo. It had so much torque I had to feather the throttle to get it going. Then I changed the pinion to a 21t, and got it up to 27mph top speed. I plan in changing the spur to a 66t but I have to redo my motor mount because the diameter of the 66t is smaller. Oh and as far as the tranny goes. I removed the reverse and 2nd speed and did a single speed conversion kit. It is best to remove the 2 speed set up because you would have a less chance of stripping the gears. The single speed conversion beefs up the gears a little. The 2 kits cost me around $25 bucks.

redskull1944 01-24-2012 12:50 AM


Originally Posted by toyspd (Post 10217708)
Thanks.
I first used my original 72t spur gear and 19t pinion, I ran it with my phone onboard with a speedometer app. It ran 22mph with 4s lipo. It had so much torque I had to feather the throttle to get it going. Then I changed the pinion to a 21t, and got it up to 27mph top speed. I plan in changing the spur to a 66t but I have to redo my motor mount because the diameter of the 66t is smaller. Oh and as far as the tranny goes. I removed the reverse and 2nd speed and did a single speed conversion kit. It is best to remove the 2 speed set up because you would have a less chance of stripping the gears. The single speed conversion beefs up the gears a little. The 2 kits cost me around $25 bucks.

I was debating to go with 19, 21, & 23 or 21, 23, & 25 to play with. I might go with the 21-25T since I have 68-72 spurs to play with. I really want 35-40mph and I know my torque will be fine.

redskull1944 01-27-2012 11:29 PM

Still waiting on my forward only conversion that I ordered from tower in the middle of December. I should just bite the bullet and buy another one and call my ET-Maxx complete

SloRacer1080 01-28-2012 07:31 AM


Originally Posted by redskull1944 (Post 10239535)
Still waiting on my forward only conversion that I ordered from tower in the middle of December. I should just bite the bullet and buy another one and call my ET-Maxx complete

Ouch, that sucks. I see you're in Japan, explains the long shipping. Are there no hobby shops nearby? I mean come on, you're in Japan! :lol: They gotta have something there lol

redskull1944 01-29-2012 08:10 PM


Originally Posted by SloRacer1080 (Post 10240443)
Ouch, that sucks. I see you're in Japan, explains the long shipping. Are there no hobby shops nearby? I mean come on, you're in Japan! :lol: They gotta have something there lol

It's all tamiya, kyosho, and streetjam out here. It's 98% drifter stuff and 2% 1/10th nitro. They do not sell any traxxas out here. The Japanese tend to buy Japanese and frown on those who deal with non-Japanese products.

There is a bad ass hobby shop out here and it has 3 drift tracks.

The shipping is usually quick out here but with the combination of Christmas and the incompetence of USPS I half expected a delay. :deathstar

redskull1944 02-02-2012 06:13 PM

I just reordered it on sunday so hopefully it will show up today or tomorrow in the mail. I also ordered the center CVDs with it. I want to go pick out my paint this weekend at the modelers store. They have the largest selection of tamiya paint on the island. Any color ideas for my 1980 chevy 1500? I was thinking that chevy dark red or that chevy piss yellow with off white

*correction, the original one I ordered came in today almost 2 months later


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