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need some help with my t-maxx please!

need some help with my t-maxx please!

Old 03-28-2011, 09:17 AM
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Default need some help with my t-maxx please!

ok, i was running my t-maxx for about a half hour. i got it ideling good and the lsn and hsn set good. then all of a sudden, it just stopped and stalled in the yard. i thought it was out of gas. i went over to it and it still had fuel. i went to start it and when i pushed the button on the ez-start wand, when the motor turned over, the truck would move forward. it wouldnt start, and it kept rolling forward when i tried to start it. then i went to push it backwards, and it was like the brakes were on. it wouldnt roll at all backwards. i thought the tranny was shot, like stripped or a gear messed up. so i took the motor off and the spur gear spins fine. and then i took the cooling head off and the clutch bell, clutch shoes. i could spin the clutch fine. i put the clutch back together and it spun fine. i even went to turn it over with the ez-start and it spun and sounded fine. so i put it all back together and its good now. but i noticed when i put the glow plug back in and went to turn it over with the ez-start, it makes a weird noise. like a loud clicking/crunching noise. it sounds like its coming from the motor, like inside. it started up for like 2 seconds because there was a little fuel left in the line. but now it rolls fine and the spur gear spins good. the motor has good compression still. i know its not the tranny. what could be that loud noise when im turning the motor over with the ez-start?
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:01 AM
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i tried turning it over a few more times and it dont sound that bad. i mean it always made that clicking sound. it just sounded louder that time. could it be the one way bearing making that noise? or maybe a gear is broke or stripped in the ez-start housing? the clutch turns when im cranking it over. i just think it sounds weird. maybe there supposed to sound like that.....

Last edited by ckblood05; 03-28-2011 at 10:12 AM.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:41 AM
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i know others wil chime i soon but i re-read your post and it sounds like it could be a one way bearing going out pull off the clutchbell and inspect the shoes and bel see if they are hanging up take a little fine sandpaper or a fine barrel on your dremel and take the glaze off the inside of the bell see if that helps? keep us posted if that fixes it?
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by secondhand_rc
i know others wil chime i soon but i re-read your post and it sounds like it could be a one way bearing going out pull off the clutchbell and inspect the shoes and bel see if they are hanging up take a little fine sandpaper or a fine barrel on your dremel and take the glaze off the inside of the bell see if that helps? keep us posted if that fixes it?
yea, i took off the ez-start and cleaned the one way bearing. then while it was off, i used some black rtv sealent to seal it against the plate. i also did the header. i used the wand with the ez-start off the motor and it sounds good. i then put it all back together and its working good. still seems a little loud. i did have the clutch and bell off earlier. i wiped out the inside of the clutch bell. the clutch shoes i use are mip. they looked good. the clutch bell spins great.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:32 AM
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im looking at my manual for my t maxx and i noticed theres a 5x8 teflon washer that goes on right before the 5mm e-clip. i dont have that washer on mine. will that hurt anything?
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ckblood05
im looking at my manual for my t maxx and i noticed theres a 5x8 teflon washer that goes on right before the 5mm e-clip. i dont have that washer on mine. will that hurt anything?
The washer is a shim and it's supposed to go behind the E-clip, shims allow for less CB movement, it also helps protect the bearing.

If you find you have "a lot" of play in the CB then you might want to consider finding a shim and using it. If you dont you could find yourself replacing bearings pre-maturly.
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by got_nitro
The washer is a shim and it's supposed to go behind the E-clip, shims allow for less CB movement, it also helps protect the bearing.

If you find you have "a lot" of play in the CB then you might want to consider finding a shim and using it. If you dont you could find yourself replacing bearings pre-maturly.
yea, im going to order a pack of them. i can move the cb back and forth a bit.
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:56 PM
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i just ordered a pack of them shims and a pack of e-clips. its always good to have extra e-clips. and when i get them washers, i'll put one on behind the e-clip.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
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Old 03-28-2011, 05:47 PM
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i actually found a black washer that came with my extra slipper kit i got. it fits perfect on the motor shaft and in between the cb and the e-clip. now theres no back and forth movement of the clutch bell. i also oiled the 2 cb bearings and took some sand paper to the inside of the cb.
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:31 PM
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Don't put the cb on too tight, there must be some movement there.

You might have bad engine bearings if your stuff looks ok but sounds bad. I would tear the engine down now to avoid catastrophic failure later. You've checked both ends, (you did check the ez start right?) now it's time to go inside.
3.3's are well known for rod and bearing failure.

EDIT: The ez start is probably ok if it still spins the motor. Take off the cooling head and look for scarring on the sleeve and/or bits of aluminum on the top of piston. Bad engine bearings will cause the bottom of the rod to rub the case, making a nasty sound and causing tuning issues. In extreme cases the bearing parts will break away and go through the cylinder.
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by trxnut454
Don't put the cb on too tight, there must be some movement there.

You might have bad engine bearings if your stuff looks ok but sounds bad. I would tear the engine down now to avoid catastrophic failure later. You've checked both ends, (you did check the ez start right?) now it's time to go inside.
3.3's are well known for rod and bearing failure.

EDIT: The ez start is probably ok if it still spins the motor. Take off the cooling head and look for scarring on the sleeve and/or bits of aluminum on the top of piston. Bad engine bearings will cause the bottom of the rod to rub the case, making a nasty sound and causing tuning issues. In extreme cases the bearing parts will break away and go through the cylinder.
no theres still a little movement between the cb and the e-clip. there was about a 1/8 inch before,lol. yea i took off the ez start. and when off the motor it sounds fine. i did take off the cooling head the first time. and all i saw was a little burnt looking spot on top of the piston. there was no shavings or anything there. i then went to crank the motor over with the ez start with the cooling head off and the motor sounded fine. i watched the piston go up and down. its almost like when the motor is all sealed up, like the head on, the glow plug in, the exhaust on, i hear the noise. if i got an opening on the motor somewhere, it sounds fine. but theres good compression coming out the pipe. i will take a pic of the piston/sleeve here in a bit.
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:59 AM
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ok, i just pulled the cooling head off. heres a couple pics. the piston i got at tdc. the glow plug looks fine on the bottom. i been running with the same plug for a while and it glows good and dont have no burn marks on the bottom. i try to stay more towards the rich side.
Attached Thumbnails need some help with my t-maxx please!-picture-171.jpg   need some help with my t-maxx please!-picture-172.jpg  
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ckblood05
ok, i just pulled the cooling head off. heres a couple pics. the piston i got at tdc. the glow plug looks fine on the bottom. i been running with the same plug for a while and it glows good and dont have no burn marks on the bottom. i try to stay more towards the rich side.
If I were you, I would stop pulling the head off the mill. It does nothing and you cant see the parts that would go bad to begin with.

The only time I would pull the head off a mill is if there was too much carbon build up on the piston or head button, it's messing with my compression, and tune.

If you want a good look at the intrenals, pull off the back plate. Thats where you will see any kind of damage if you know what to look for. Pulling the head off will only increase your chances of forgeting to put the shims back on the head button, lose a shim or kink one.
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by got_nitro
If I were you, I would stop pulling the head off the mill. It does nothing and you cant see the parts that would go bad to begin with.

The only time I would pull the head off a mill is if there was too much carbon build up on the piston or head button, it's messing with my compression, and tune.

If you want a good look at the intrenals, pull off the back plate. Thats where you will see any kind of damage if you know what to look for. Pulling the head off will only increase your chances of forgeting to put the shims back on the head button, lose a shim or kink one.
yea i never pulled a engine apart before. actually, when i pull the head off, nothing comes off like shims. i dont know if there stuck on the head or the motor. i see like a golden ring on both. but nothing comes off. does them pics look normal for about a engine that has about a gallon and a quart of fuel ran through?
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:12 PM
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Are you using traxxas fuel?


I would get rid of it..
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