need some help with my t-maxx please!
#1
need some help with my t-maxx please!
ok, i was running my t-maxx for about a half hour. i got it ideling good and the lsn and hsn set good. then all of a sudden, it just stopped and stalled in the yard. i thought it was out of gas. i went over to it and it still had fuel. i went to start it and when i pushed the button on the ez-start wand, when the motor turned over, the truck would move forward. it wouldnt start, and it kept rolling forward when i tried to start it. then i went to push it backwards, and it was like the brakes were on. it wouldnt roll at all backwards. i thought the tranny was shot, like stripped or a gear messed up. so i took the motor off and the spur gear spins fine. and then i took the cooling head off and the clutch bell, clutch shoes. i could spin the clutch fine. i put the clutch back together and it spun fine. i even went to turn it over with the ez-start and it spun and sounded fine. so i put it all back together and its good now. but i noticed when i put the glow plug back in and went to turn it over with the ez-start, it makes a weird noise. like a loud clicking/crunching noise. it sounds like its coming from the motor, like inside. it started up for like 2 seconds because there was a little fuel left in the line. but now it rolls fine and the spur gear spins good. the motor has good compression still. i know its not the tranny. what could be that loud noise when im turning the motor over with the ez-start?
#2
i tried turning it over a few more times and it dont sound that bad. i mean it always made that clicking sound. it just sounded louder that time. could it be the one way bearing making that noise? or maybe a gear is broke or stripped in the ez-start housing? the clutch turns when im cranking it over. i just think it sounds weird. maybe there supposed to sound like that.....
Last edited by ckblood05; 03-28-2011 at 10:12 AM.
#3
Tech Regular
iTrader: (28)
i know others wil chime i soon but i re-read your post and it sounds like it could be a one way bearing going out pull off the clutchbell and inspect the shoes and bel see if they are hanging up take a little fine sandpaper or a fine barrel on your dremel and take the glaze off the inside of the bell see if that helps? keep us posted if that fixes it?
#4
i know others wil chime i soon but i re-read your post and it sounds like it could be a one way bearing going out pull off the clutchbell and inspect the shoes and bel see if they are hanging up take a little fine sandpaper or a fine barrel on your dremel and take the glaze off the inside of the bell see if that helps? keep us posted if that fixes it?
#6
If you find you have "a lot" of play in the CB then you might want to consider finding a shim and using it. If you dont you could find yourself replacing bearings pre-maturly.
#7
The washer is a shim and it's supposed to go behind the E-clip, shims allow for less CB movement, it also helps protect the bearing.
If you find you have "a lot" of play in the CB then you might want to consider finding a shim and using it. If you dont you could find yourself replacing bearings pre-maturly.
If you find you have "a lot" of play in the CB then you might want to consider finding a shim and using it. If you dont you could find yourself replacing bearings pre-maturly.
#8
i just ordered a pack of them shims and a pack of e-clips. its always good to have extra e-clips. and when i get them washers, i'll put one on behind the e-clip.
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#9
i actually found a black washer that came with my extra slipper kit i got. it fits perfect on the motor shaft and in between the cb and the e-clip. now theres no back and forth movement of the clutch bell. i also oiled the 2 cb bearings and took some sand paper to the inside of the cb.
#10
Tech Regular
Don't put the cb on too tight, there must be some movement there.
You might have bad engine bearings if your stuff looks ok but sounds bad. I would tear the engine down now to avoid catastrophic failure later. You've checked both ends, (you did check the ez start right?) now it's time to go inside.
3.3's are well known for rod and bearing failure.
EDIT: The ez start is probably ok if it still spins the motor. Take off the cooling head and look for scarring on the sleeve and/or bits of aluminum on the top of piston. Bad engine bearings will cause the bottom of the rod to rub the case, making a nasty sound and causing tuning issues. In extreme cases the bearing parts will break away and go through the cylinder.
You might have bad engine bearings if your stuff looks ok but sounds bad. I would tear the engine down now to avoid catastrophic failure later. You've checked both ends, (you did check the ez start right?) now it's time to go inside.
3.3's are well known for rod and bearing failure.
EDIT: The ez start is probably ok if it still spins the motor. Take off the cooling head and look for scarring on the sleeve and/or bits of aluminum on the top of piston. Bad engine bearings will cause the bottom of the rod to rub the case, making a nasty sound and causing tuning issues. In extreme cases the bearing parts will break away and go through the cylinder.
#11
Don't put the cb on too tight, there must be some movement there.
You might have bad engine bearings if your stuff looks ok but sounds bad. I would tear the engine down now to avoid catastrophic failure later. You've checked both ends, (you did check the ez start right?) now it's time to go inside.
3.3's are well known for rod and bearing failure.
EDIT: The ez start is probably ok if it still spins the motor. Take off the cooling head and look for scarring on the sleeve and/or bits of aluminum on the top of piston. Bad engine bearings will cause the bottom of the rod to rub the case, making a nasty sound and causing tuning issues. In extreme cases the bearing parts will break away and go through the cylinder.
You might have bad engine bearings if your stuff looks ok but sounds bad. I would tear the engine down now to avoid catastrophic failure later. You've checked both ends, (you did check the ez start right?) now it's time to go inside.
3.3's are well known for rod and bearing failure.
EDIT: The ez start is probably ok if it still spins the motor. Take off the cooling head and look for scarring on the sleeve and/or bits of aluminum on the top of piston. Bad engine bearings will cause the bottom of the rod to rub the case, making a nasty sound and causing tuning issues. In extreme cases the bearing parts will break away and go through the cylinder.
#12
ok, i just pulled the cooling head off. heres a couple pics. the piston i got at tdc. the glow plug looks fine on the bottom. i been running with the same plug for a while and it glows good and dont have no burn marks on the bottom. i try to stay more towards the rich side.
#13
ok, i just pulled the cooling head off. heres a couple pics. the piston i got at tdc. the glow plug looks fine on the bottom. i been running with the same plug for a while and it glows good and dont have no burn marks on the bottom. i try to stay more towards the rich side.
The only time I would pull the head off a mill is if there was too much carbon build up on the piston or head button, it's messing with my compression, and tune.
If you want a good look at the intrenals, pull off the back plate. Thats where you will see any kind of damage if you know what to look for. Pulling the head off will only increase your chances of forgeting to put the shims back on the head button, lose a shim or kink one.
#14
If I were you, I would stop pulling the head off the mill. It does nothing and you cant see the parts that would go bad to begin with.
The only time I would pull the head off a mill is if there was too much carbon build up on the piston or head button, it's messing with my compression, and tune.
If you want a good look at the intrenals, pull off the back plate. Thats where you will see any kind of damage if you know what to look for. Pulling the head off will only increase your chances of forgeting to put the shims back on the head button, lose a shim or kink one.
The only time I would pull the head off a mill is if there was too much carbon build up on the piston or head button, it's messing with my compression, and tune.
If you want a good look at the intrenals, pull off the back plate. Thats where you will see any kind of damage if you know what to look for. Pulling the head off will only increase your chances of forgeting to put the shims back on the head button, lose a shim or kink one.
#15
Are you using traxxas fuel?
I would get rid of it..
I would get rid of it..